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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
:DeadHorse:I just ordered a M A F wich increases the Air Flow from 644 cfm to 1000 cfm has any one tried this? Also a flow wedge for the intake. Advertised as a H P kit for LT's . The intake area is increased from 75mm to 80mm I have a K&N filter up front and muffler eliminators out back { no mufflers} I think more air in more power out. RIGHT. Anyone try it:thumbsup:
 

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To my knowledge...

Your valves need to support the larger intake by staying open longer; i.e. a new camshaft. Air in needs to go out so you'll need an exhaust system which compliments the two previous modifications. If you really want to increase the flow of your exhaust try deleting the cats. Just watch out for emissions.
 

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throwing parts at a engine rarely gets you max HP
it all has to match up
 

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:DeadHorse:I just ordered a M A F which increases the Air Flow from 644 cfm to 1000 cfm has any one tried this? Also a flow wedge for the intake. Advertised as a H P kit for LT's . The intake area is increased from 75mm to 80mm I have a K&N filter up front and muffler eliminators out back { no mufflers} I think more air in more power out. RIGHT. Anyone try it:thumbsup:

As a former professional engine builder I'm going to give you some sobering figures.

1. A 350" engine that is 100% volumetric efficient will consume 608 cfm at 6000 rpm.

2. At the very best street engines will only reach a 80-85% volumetric efficiency because of their "streetable" intake systems, cylinder heads, camshafts, and restrictive exhaust systems.

3. At an unrealistic 85% volumetric efficiency that 350" engine will consume 517 cfm at 6000 rpm, 474 cfm at 5500 rpm. and only 430 cfm at 5000 rpm.

Adding a MAF that CAN flow 1000 cfm won't do anything unless the other components are replaced with equally high-flowing components. And then to take advantage of the increased revs you'll also need rear end gears like 3.70's or lower.
 

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Listen to them ^

I bought a ported intake manifold and 52mm BBK throttle body, also a larger air intake and didn't tune it.

Guess what, my car ran stronger when I put the factory throttle body and air filter assembly(With the cut open lid) back on.
 

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As a former professional engine builder I'm going to give you some sobering figures.

1. A 350" engine that is 100% volumetric efficient will consume 608 cfm at 6000 rpm.

2. At the very best street engines will only reach a 80-85% volumetric efficiency because of their "streetable" intake systems, cylinder heads, camshafts, and restrictive exhaust systems.

3. At an unrealistic 85% volumetric efficiency that 350" engine will consume 517 cfm at 6000 rpm, 474 cfm at 5500 rpm. and only 430 cfm at 5000 rpm.

Adding a MAF that CAN flow 1000 cfm won't do anything unless the other components are replaced with equally high-flowing components. And then to take advantage of the increased revs you'll also need rear end gears like 3.70's or lower.
yes it will do something , kill bottom end :rofl:
 

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Now, a larger throttle body will give a noticeable increase in response but nothing in additional power. Why? Because for each degree of throttle plate opening more air can flow which would be the same as opening a stock throttle body more.
 

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NOPE
The new MAF has 1000 cfm flow " potential " but as noted above the engine will still only suck as much air as it requires so no change in perf
:rofl:

:duel:
go try it on a dyno and get back to me.......:pigsfly:



watch what happens when you go full throttle. it will fall on it's face.

are you going to limit the blade to 1/2 open ?

 

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Now, a larger throttle body will give a noticeable increase in response but nothing in additional power. Why? Because for each degree of throttle plate opening more air can flow which would be the same as opening a stock throttle body more.
then it would make sense to just make the stock one open quicker
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Make a difference

Guys does it make a difference that I have the L T 4 ?? It has a hotter cam rocker rollers and alumium heads. I also have the 3" exhaust with NO mufflers. C C told me it would make a difference. What do you think??:SMILEY:
 

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Of course they told you it will make a difference, they wanted your money.

I'm not trying to be a **** just giving you an honest opinion. What style engine you have is fairly irrelevant, the principals do not change.
 

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if every little bolt on worked you'd get 600 hp and 100 mpg.........
 

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go try it on a dyno and get back to me.......:pigsfly:
Will make no difference because with his stock setup a larger MAF as already noted is not going to flow any more air than a stock one
The MAF on a LT1 is not a Hp restriction until you are kicking 500 FWHP

Watch what happens when you go full throttle. it will fall on it's face.
Once again ; no difference .
NA ,The engine will only suck in what air it requires.
With EFI it doesn't have the same effect as like putting a 850DP carb on a 283 where the fuel drops out of suspension because the airflow slows down too much

And I have test results to prove it
30 back to back runs , same track / same day.
Half with a stock TB , half with a 58mm TB
Same 13.0X ET , same 1.7X 60 ft times on all runs indicating no bogging or loss of bottom end power with the larger setup
So your :pigsfly: off into the sunset
 

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I'll trust what Lingenfelter talked about , before he died , rather than trust you.
and
Drag racing is all FULL THROTTLE.
What does an ET prove ?

At part throttle , it makes a difference.......unless you slow down the blade
you can minimize it with a good tune......

You are correct about it not being the same as a carb.
We used to run a big carb and spacer to kill the bottom end on a dry/slick track and go back to the small carb w/o a spacer when it was tacky.
 

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:DeadHorse:I just ordered a M A F wich increases the Air Flow from 644 cfm to 1000 cfm has any one tried this? Also a flow wedge for the intake. Advertised as a H P kit for LT's . The intake area is increased from 75mm to 80mm I have a K&N filter up front and muffler eliminators out back { no mufflers} I think more air in more power out. RIGHT. Anyone try it:thumbsup:

As the purpose of the MAF is to measure the amount of air entering the engine so the ECM can make precise fuel calibrations I can't see how a MAF designed for a larger engine could do anything beneficial. There are two main types of MAF sensors being used; the vane type that uses a spring loaded vane and the hot wire type. Of the two types the vane type will slightly limit the amount of air entering the engine as the incoming air has to move the vane against spring tension but any limitation to air flow would only take place at a wide open throttle. If your original MAF is the more common heated wire type (and I believe it is) it shouldn't cause any restriction or limitation to power.
 

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At part throttle , it makes a difference.......unless you slow down the blade
Whatever
The larger TB made no difference to street drivabilty on any of my setups.Part throttle response was no different from the stock TB

What does an ET prove ?
In this case , it disproves the commonly held myth that a larger TB will let too much air in
killing the bottom end of a engine and causing a engine to bog off the line
 

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I can't see how a MAF designed for a larger engine could do anything beneficial.
The aftermarket MAF is not "designed " for a larger engine ; it just claims to be less restrictive than the stock one and because everyone knows stock parts suck ;
guys buy them and other claimed perf enhancing parts ( think TB spacer , air foil , etc ) because they are told those items are restricting their engine's perf

As already noted ;
if all the bolt on parts did as they claim to do you could get 500Hp out of a stock engine with just bolt on parts releasing all that "trapped / hidden " Hp from those horribly restrictive factory parts
 
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