Starter will-motor won't

1969RAY said:

When I try to start it, strong battery, motor turns over great. Just as I let the key off, it tries to catch and sometimes does. Then it runs great.
So-installed a new ignition switch (wired not key) figuring a bad spot on the switch. Some help but now back to the same old problem. Turns over fast but seemingly no juice to the distributor. Any ideas?

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Does it still have the original points-type distributor in it? You can check to see if current is getting to your coil by probing the + terminal with a test light. While cranking it the light should turn on and off as the points "break and make".

The coil for a points-type distributor has two hot leads going to the + terminal. One coming from the ignition switch and the other coming from the "R" terminal on the starter solenoid. During cranking the coil is fed by the wire going to the solenoid as that wire provides a full 12 volts. Then once it fires off and the key is returned to the "RUN" position the coil gets fed 6 volts by the braided resistor wire going to the ignition switch.

You say you replaced the "ignition" switch that is mounted on top of the steering column right next to the firewall? That switch has slotted adjustment holes in it's base and must be "timed" so it's fully engaged when the key is rotated all the way foreword.

:thumbsup3:

Thanks for the advice guys. I am running Petronics but the wiring is the same. Today I will do more diognostics see if we can't find a remedy.

1969RAY said:

Thanks for the advice guys. I am running Petronics but the wiring is the same. Today I will do more diognostics see if we can't find a remedy.

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Are you aware your Pertronix needs a full 12 volts going to it? You can't use the original braided resistance wire because that only provides 6 volts. Most folks run a fused 12-gauge wire from the IGN terminal to the coil.

Roger that, Toobroke. It's started and ran fine for 6-7 years with Petronics and the resistor has been gone since installation. Plans to work on it fell through this weekend. Maybe during the week.

Put the test ligght on the positive terminal of the coil. Light in the on position of key; dimming and out in start position.
Pulled at the wire that didn't go to the distributor and found it to be way to hot and a bad connection at a splice point. Fixed it and all was good. Thanks for the "where to look".

Good example of why not to crimp wires. Always soldier and put heat shrink tubing on splices and they will last forever...........

Slicktop said:

Good example of why not to crimp wires. Always soldier and put heat shrink tubing on splices and they will last forever...........

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Well, except in this case. The lead to the distributor is a kind of spring steel. The connection that I cut away was copper, with an attempted solder underneath a pretty little shrink tube.