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I stripped one of the caliper mount hole threads on the right rear trailing arm. 1974 Corvette. Any safe and permanent solutions short of replacing the T-arm?
Rear Trailing Arm
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I thought I had already replied to this, but I'm very techno-challenged so I may not have done it correctly.
I don't see where anyone else has replied to this so I'll make a suggestion. If you are unfamiliar with helicoil thread repair kits, I would suggest getting some local advice as to how to use one. However, that's how I would repair it. The kit has a tap to enlarge and thread the hole. Then a steel coil is twisted into the new threads that will return the hole to it's original size with a new set of threads. With the wheel and brake disk removed, I believe the repair can be done right on the car. Worst case scenario, you may have to remove the railing arm, but I really don't think so and, even if you do, it's much less expensive than a new trailing arm. If that doesn't work, you could take the trailing arm to a machine shop and let them fix it. In any case, I can't see the need for a new trailing arm.
I don't see where anyone else has replied to this so I'll make a suggestion. If you are unfamiliar with helicoil thread repair kits, I would suggest getting some local advice as to how to use one. However, that's how I would repair it. The kit has a tap to enlarge and thread the hole. Then a steel coil is twisted into the new threads that will return the hole to it's original size with a new set of threads. With the wheel and brake disk removed, I believe the repair can be done right on the car. Worst case scenario, you may have to remove the railing arm, but I really don't think so and, even if you do, it's much less expensive than a new trailing arm. If that doesn't work, you could take the trailing arm to a machine shop and let them fix it. In any case, I can't see the need for a new trailing arm.
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Thank you Michal for the suggesting. I'm familiar with helicoils and have used them as a solution. Was not sure if this would be a reliable solution for a brake component. The cost of a replacement TR is less an obstacle for me than the can of worms removing and installing the TR. I am going to float this idea with a couple of seasoned builders that I know. I like the idea of making the repair in the assembled state. Removing the brake components to gain access is no issue for me. BTW I was using a torque wrench when I stripped it so there was an underlying issue of some sort. The lock washer got caught in the paint on the new caliper, distorted and partially slid out from under the bolt head. Not sure how to avoid this, but that's the simple malfunction that put me into this predicament.
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While having my '67 reconditioned, I found one of the bolts that goes thru the birdcage and into the door hinge had been crossthreaded. I took the hinge to a machine shop and they recommended a stainless steel helicoil. They said it would be stronger than the original threads. That was several years ago and I've had no issues. If that can be done without removing TR, I would think should work for you.
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Thank you, I like the idea of stainless. Going to try this solution.
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Good luck and let us know your final solution and how it works out. John
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Will do...
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Get a heli-coil or Chrislyn thread repair kit. Comes with oversized drill bit, thread inserts, and thread insert tool. You'll have to figure the dia and pitch. Amazon sells scads of thread repair kits. Simple to do.
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