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Anyone know if it's difficult to change radiator hoses upper, lower and the heater core hoses on a 1995 C4? Purchased all 4 hoses at a local auto parts store for $115 which seems like a good deal compared to my local dealer. Thanks for any response.
 

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Not at all, just take your time, be calm and if you can't tackle it from one side, search for other angles to work with! The toughest ones to change will probably be your heater core hoses.
 

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Thanks for the tip... Took about an hour and yes the heater core hoses took more patience!! thanks
 

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Thanks for the tip... Took about an hour and yes the heater core hoses took more patience!! thanks
Welcome, glad it went good :thumbsup3:
 

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For future reference, take the coolant resevior off, it's only a couple of screws and a grommet. This provides great access to the heater hose at the firewall. When I removed mine, I found all kinds of calcium deposits in it. It took over an hour to flush, shake and repeat to get 99% of the crap out. I put all of my hoses on using 'quality' hose (worm) clamps.
 

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For future reference, take the coolant resevior off, it's only a couple of screws and a grommet. This provides great access to the heater hose at the firewall. When I removed mine, I found all kinds of calcium deposits in it. It took over an hour to flush, shake and repeat to get 99% of the crap out. I put all of my hoses on using 'quality' hose (worm) clamps.
Sam, how did you make out bleeding the air out of the system? running the heater help?
 

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Sam, how did you make out bleeding the air out of the system? running the heater help?
On any LT1/4 running the heater won't help. It is essential to use the bleeder screws on the t/stat housing to 'burp' the air out. I suggest doing it with engine running once when cold and twice after the t/stat has opened. 92-94s also have a bleed screw on the TB by-pass hose on the driver's side close to the TB.
 

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On any LT1/4 running the heater won't help. It is essential to use the bleeder screws on the t/stat housing to 'burp' the air out. I suggest doing it with engine running once when cold and twice after the t/stat has opened. 92-94s also have a bleed screw on the TB by-pass hose on the driver's side close to the TB.
:iagree:
 

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just drill a small hole in the t-stat itself and you won't have to burp it

been doing it for years
 
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