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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I thought I'd take the time to share this. Friday afternoon I had a no start condition, no spark, and the injectors were not firing. I've noticed recently an occasional stumble and slight power loss, but nothing that could not be attributed it being a crossfire. Also starting a few weeks ago in the morning my tach would jump and read zero for a few miles then come back and function normally the rest of the day. Everything pointed to the ICM (Ignition Control Module), I've been through a few and noticed the symptoms of one on the verge of failure - oh and I carry one with all the time. Any way, I swapped out the ICM and still no spark, I had power everywhere, but apparently still no trigger signal. Remembering my previous tach problem, I disconnected the tach wire from the distributor cap, I turned the key and she fired up. I found this interesting, so I shut it down reconnected the tach and she again fired up. So I left it like it was and went about my evening. The next morning the no start was back. I disconnected the tach and again she fired right up. This time I decided to leave it disconnected. Upon driving I found that the power loss was more significant than I realized, I was surprised at how much power I had been missing. My only conclusion is that the tach signal has been shorting out causing the tach to read intermittently and reduce the intensity of the spark at the plugs, or causing other erratic behavior within the ECM. My hope is that the tach filter is shorting internally and it is the cause of these issues. I'm ordering a filter today and let everyone know the outcome. Until then I'm happily driving tachless.
 

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I thought I'd take the time to share this. Friday afternoon I had a no start condition, no spark, and the injectors were not firing. I've noticed recently an occasional stumble and slight power loss, but nothing that could not be attributed it being a crossfire. Also starting a few weeks ago in the morning my tach would jump and read zero for a few miles then come back and function normally the rest of the day. Everything pointed to the ICM (Ignition Control Module), I've been through a few and noticed the symptoms of one on the verge of failure - oh and I carry one with all the time. Any way, I swapped out the ICM and still no spark, I had power everywhere, but apparently still no trigger signal. Remembering my previous tach problem, I disconnected the tach wire from the distributor cap, I turned the key and she fired up. I found this interesting, so I shut it down reconnected the tach and she again fired up. So I left it like it was and went about my evening. The next morning the no start was back. I disconnected the tach and again she fired right up. This time I decided to leave it disconnected. Upon driving I found that the power loss was more significant than I realized, I was surprised at how much power I had been missing. My only conclusion is that the tach signal has been shorting out causing the tach to read intermittently and reduce the intensity of the spark at the plugs, or causing other erratic behavior within the ECM. My hope is that the tach filter is shorting internally and it is the cause of these issues. I'm ordering a filter today and let everyone know the outcome. Until then I'm happily driving tachless.

If you would like to have a substantial power increase put an '85 fuel pump in it and increase your fuel pressure to 14 psi.

The stock '82 thru '84 fuel pumps won't deliver enough fuel volume or pressure to feed a CrossFire above 3000 rpm and the '85 pump will correct that. Then to get the 14 psi you'll have to stretch your pressure regulator spring 3/4" longer than it is.

For more information e-mail me at [email protected] and I'll walk you thru it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Fuel pump has been upgraded, have not bumped the pressure yet - maybe later. I did find a bad crimp splice, just the one that provides power to everything. I Cut it out and replaced it with a soldered spliced. Car runs much better when it has electrical power to consume... Still have not replaced the tach filter.
 

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My only conclusion is that the tach signal has been shorting out causing the tach to read intermittently My hope is that the tach filter is shorting internally and it is the cause of these issues.
Could also be the wiring through the filter to the tacho shorting out.
Not uncommon for the insulation on the wires to break down , especially on a component mounted on the back of the engine in the heat
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Could also be the wiring through the filter to the tacho shorting out.
Not uncommon for the insulation on the wires to break down , especially on a component mounted on the back of the engine in the heat
Good thought I'll check it out. After I fixed the splice I reconnected the tach and all seemed okay for a day, then she started running crappy again. I unplugged the tach trigger from the distributor and all is well again. I need to get off my lazy @$$ and replace the filter & check the wiring while I'm at it.
 

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need to get off my lazy @$$ and replace the filter & check the wiring while I'm at it.
Have fun if it is still in the stock location
Sometimes easier to get to the bellhousing bolt holding it from underneath with long extensions rather than down the back
of the head from the top
Filter has 2 brown connectors ; the one to the dist you removed and one to the harness
FWIW ;
it doesn't have to go back there ; all it requires is that the case ( mounting bracket ) is grounded
so any location ( bolt ) on the engine will work

 
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