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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 66 vette with knock off spinners. I used the lead hammer to try and remove the spinners but they won't loosen and I don't want to hit them too hard & break the spinner. Is there a trick to this?
 

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I have a 66 vette with knock off spinners. I used the lead hammer to try and remove the spinners but they won't loosen and I don't want to hit them too hard & break the spinner. Is there a trick to this?
Two suggestions. One, your spinners may have a roll pin keeper. If so, you will have to punch it out. Look for a small hole with a roll pin on the side of your spinner. The pin length is equal to the width of the spinner at the threads. Second, I think the spinners on the passenger side, or maybe both sides, are reverse threads. There should be a direction arrow on the spinner. Hope this helps.
 

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Two suggestions. One, your spinners may have a roll pin keeper. If so, you will have to punch it out. Look for a small hole with a roll pin on the side of your spinner. The pin length is equal to the width of the spinner at the threads. Second, I think the spinners on the passenger side, or maybe both sides, are reverse threads. There should be a direction arrow on the spinner. Hope this helps.
:coffeetime:
 

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Original factory KO's didn't use safety pins in the spinners, but many of the reproduction wheels do.

Remove the ornament cap from the spinner (use a pick or a suction-cup tool) and see if your wheels have holes drilled through the threads for a pin - if they do, remove the pin - you'll never get them off with the pin in place.

Then whack them HARD with a lead hammer - it won't hurt the spinner or the chrome. Forget the factory lead hammer - it's for one-time use in a roadside emergency wheel change. Google "M o t h e r -Thumper" and get a REAL lead hammer for knock-off wheels.

Also note that there are ten ways to orient the wheel on the adapter, and five of them are wrong. The five large holes in the wheel are clearance for the lug nuts that hold the adapter to the hub, and the five small holes in the wheel are for the smooth drive pins. If you orient the wheel with the small holes on the lug studs, the spinners won't thread all the way on, and the wheel WILL come off.

If the adapters are installed correctly, the driver's side spinners have conventional right-hand threads, and the passenger side spinners have left-hand threads.

:cheers:
 

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thanks again JohnZ. Is thers a trick to getting the pins out?
Not normally - there should be enough of the end of the pin exposed to grab it with needle-nose pliers and pull it out; you may have to whack the spinner a bit in either direction so the pin is free in the hole.

Photo below shows a reproduction KO wheel with the pin - that's what you'd see after removing the center emblem; the end of the pin shows at about 4 o'clock. The repro spinner has 5 pin slots, and the repro adapter has 6 slots so you don't have to whack the spinner much past its torqued position to align two slots to accept the pin.

Note: The pin is no substitute for whacking hell out of the spinner with a REAL lead hammer to tighten it before inserting the pin. Original wheels didn't have the pin, and didn't need them if installed properly.

Use a little anti-seize on the spinner threads and on the mating conical surfaces on the spinner and the wheel so you don't waste hammer effort overcoming thread friction and galling, and final "whacking" of the spinner should be done with the tire on the ground, not up in the air.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
John,
:doh:
My mistake, I do not have pins. I took your advice and took a heavy 5 lb. hammer with a hard wood block and after about 5 hard whacks it came loose. Is it unusual to not have the pins?

vetteran
 

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John,
:doh:
My mistake, I do not have pins. I took your advice and took a heavy 5 lb. hammer with a hard wood block and after about 5 hard whacks it came loose. Is it unusual to not have the pins?

vetteran
No, it isn't - some reproduction adapters/spinners had them, some didn't (and, of course, originals didn't either).

Do your adapters have the special "long" lug nuts used only on KO adapters (photo below) or regular lug nuts? The "long" lug nuts will prevent incorrect orientation of the wheel to the adapter.

:cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
John,

I have the long nuts on the adapter. :cheers:
I'm in the chicago area. If you ever in Chilcago let me know and I'd love to show you my vette. Its frame off - rare - on of 12 '66 coupes with 427, auto, air, power windows, brakes, steering, etc.
vetteran
 

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I have a 66 vette with knock off spinners. I used the lead hammer to try and remove the spinners but they won't loosen and I don't want to hit them too hard & break the spinner. Is there a trick to this?
I too have a '66 with KO's and spinners and the same thing happened to me. What I did was spray Kroil (it's a penetrating oil) into the space between the spinner and the cone and let it sit overnight. They came loose the next day. Before I put the wheels back on I used Never-Seez on the hub threads. I have never had that problem again. Hope this helps. Good luck.

I came back to add this comment after realizing that this is an old thread!
 

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K O s

a few things,1st the wrench...Dennis portka designed and mfg.a very good tool for k o s.2nd he gives instructions on how to achieve the proper torque on the threads.3rd lyuse of no sieze will be very helpful when removing the wheel.and lastly be sure to mark your spinner and wheel (a red line across both)will allow you to check at a glance if the spinner is coming loose. just my 2.$
Francis
 
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