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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How do I get the half shafts out of my 81? I have the little "U" clips off the universal, but I cannot get the half shaft end to drop down. I am only trying to remove the end attached to the wheel.
 

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Mark the location of the strut rod adjustment at the diff end so you can reference it when you reinstall the rod.
Loosen the adjustment and turn it toward the wheel, pushing the assembly outward, this will allow the half shaft to loosen.
 

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How do I get the half shafts out of my 81? I have the little "U" clips off the universal, but I cannot get the half shaft end to drop down. I am only trying to remove the end attached to the wheel.

I have found the easiest way to remove the half shafts is to put the car up on safety stands then place a floor jack under the tire and raise it up about 4-5 inches. That'll take the tension load off the half shaft and it'll make it a lot easier to pry it out. When you use a floor jack stick it under the tire from the side at a 90 degree angle so it'll roll as it lifts the tire. I take these half shafts out all the time so I know what works best.......................
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have found the easiest way to remove the half shafts is to put the car up on safety stands then place a floor jack under the tire and raise it up about 4-5 inches. That'll take the compression load off the half shaft and it'll make it a lot easier to pry it out. When you use a floor jack stick it under the tire from the side at a 90 degree angle so it'll roll as it lifts the tire. I take these half shafts out all the time so I know what works best.......................
Thanks, sound easy enough.:thumbsup3:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I too have been wrestling them out the hard way for many years and recently I tried using my little scissor jack under the tire and that did the trick. They came out with the greatest of ease. So I learned something new..................
This will be my first time removing a half shaft, I am going to try and replace the wheel bearings, I hope! Thanks again.
 

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This will be my first time removing a half shaft, I am going to try and replace the wheel bearings, I hope! Thanks again.

It's very easy to replace the wheel bearings as I just replaced them in my '71 several months ago. After you get the races hammered in fill the hub completely full of #2 grease and be sure to check the end play of the spindles with a dial indicator. Should have .001" to .005" end play.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It's very easy to replace the wheel bearings as I just replaced them in my '71 several months ago. After you get the races hammered in fill the hub completely full of #2 grease and be sure to check the end play of the spindles with a dial indicator. Should have .001" to .005" end play.
toobroketoretire,
Thanks, I have a dial indicator and will buy some #2 grease.
 

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Thanks guys, looks like I am going to borrow a slide hammer and buy some #2 grease.:thumbsup:

I bought a real heavy duty OTC slide hammer and it pulled one spindle out real easy but I had to use my oxygen acetylene torch on the other side to heat the inner bearing cherry red before it would budge.

I used fine emery cloth on my spindles and polished off about .0025" (a quarter of one thousands of an inch) to make the next removal easier. Just where the inner bearings go as the outer end of the spindle isn't the problem.

Once you start reassembling them fill the cavity completely full of #2 grease before tapping the inner bearing cone in. Then with the spindle nut torqued (I just blast it with my impact wrench) check the end play and make sure it's at least .001" and no more than about .005". If it's not within specs you can buy shim kits from any of the Corvette parts vendors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I bought a real heavy duty OTC slide hammer and it pulled one spindle out real easy but I had to use my oxygen acetylene torch on the other side to heat the inner bearing cherry red before it would budge.

I used fine emery cloth on my spindles and polished off about .0025" (a quarter of one thousands of an inch) to make the next removal easier. Just where the inner bearings go as the outer end of the spindle isn't the problem.

Once you start reassembling them fill the cavity completely full of #2 grease before tapping the inner bearing cone in. Then with the spindle nut torqued (I just blast it with my impact wrench) check the end play and make sure it's at least .001" and no more than about .005". If it's not within specs you can buy shim kits from any of the Corvette parts vendors.[/QUOTE

toobroketo retire,
How did you attach the slide hammer to the spindle? can I make up a steel plate that I can attach to the lug nuts and then attach the slide hammer to the plate? Thanks for all this help.
 

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Slide hammer comes with a flange with 3 slots for wheel lugs to go thru. put lug nuts on .. remove the castle nut, flange and dust cover, bang it out ..some come out fairly easily, some are stubborn , depends on how long they ve been in there .look at pic http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-A...794?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item415c5ba79a ....most parts stores will let you borrow one w/deposit ....you can also use a spindle knocker..http://www.mamotorworks.com/corvett...er-shock-mount-tools+1963+1982-1-66-1398.html.. but its hard to swing a big hammer in there...and remember, after reassembly, with castle nut torqued to 100 Ft Lbs , you want no more than .006 end play .. Keep track of the shims that come out, start there, add or remove shims to get it under .006 in . LOTS OF GREASE!!! all you can put in it .
 

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Thanks guys, you're awesome!:thumbsup:

I took the chuck off my grease gun then screwed a 6" long 1/8" pipe nipple onto it. With the long nipple it was real easy to fill the cavity completely full with grease (with the bearing cones already packed with grease). Once filled with grease you never have to pull it apart to grease it for at least 250,000 miles (when the bearings begin to fail).


The shims come in increments of .005" so if you have a .130" shim in it and you end up with ZERO end play you just put a .135" shim into it. So measure the shim before installing it so you'll know what you have. I have been running my '82 with ZERO end play ever since I got it 26 years ago and the lack of any end play doesn't hurt anything. You just don't want PRESSURE on the bearings. You can run pinion bearings under pressure but then they're also sitting IN oil. And like pinion bearings the spindle bearings will actually loosen as the spindle warms up and grows in length (maybe lengthening .0001" as it heats up). So ZERO end play is really okay.
 
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