Chevy Corvette Forum banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Recently replaced the brake lines, proportioning valve, master cylinder (bench bled), rotors, and calipers. Brake pedal goes to about an inch from the floor before catching. Already received several suggestions on what the culprit may be however...what do you think, Smokin Vetterans?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,695 Posts
Recently replaced the brake lines, proportioning valve, master cylinder (bench bled), rotors, and calipers. Brake pedal goes to about an inch from the floor before catching. Already received several suggestions on what the culprit may be however...what do you think, Smokin Vetterans?

You still have air in your lines. To bleed the brakes fill the master cylinder and open the outside bleeder valve on the right/rear caliper. After fluid has dripped out for a minute or two close the valve and open the inner valve. After fluid has dripped out for a minute or two close it and open the outside left/rear bleeder valve. Then the inner. Then do each of the fronts. As you're bleeding them make sure you keep the master cylinder full to prevent more air from getting in. That's all there is to it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
You still have air in your lines. To bleed the brakes fill the master cylinder and open the outside bleeder valve on the right/rear caliper. After fluid has dripped out for a minute or two close the valve and open the inner valve. After fluid has dripped out for a minute or two close it and open the outside left/rear bleeder valve. Then the inner. Then do each of the fronts. As you're bleeding them make sure you keep the master cylinder full to prevent more air from getting in. That's all there is to it.
Thanks, I'll have to get around that ASAP.

A AAA chevy mechanic told me that the play was because the brakes were naturally sluggish due to the fact that they had so many pistons. I would've said something but, after having my car for about 5 months for the afforementioned replaced parts, I just wanted my baby out of their hands.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,048 Posts
I agree with toobroke, you still got air! don t forget there s 2 bleeders on rear. Oh and about that sluggish idea from the mechanic, get a new mechanic, he doesn t know corvettes
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,563 Posts
that "mechanic" isn't very bright
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I agree with toobroke, you still got air! don t forget there s 2 bleeders on rear. Oh and about that sluggish idea from the mechanic, get a new mechanic, he doesn t know corvettes
No kidding. I only took my car to AAA because they were the nearest auto center with the parts I needed for an emergency fix. Never again. AAA blows in the most expletive way imaginable. Five freaking months for what should've been a week-long job, tops.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,563 Posts
day long , tops
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
523 Posts
That AAA "mechanic" I have to run up the flag:bs:

It ain't that tough. Makes zero difference if there's 4 pistons per wheel or 9. As long as the source displaces enough juice to move the cylinder the required amount, it's over.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,423 Posts
Definetly sounds like air and lots of it. You could also check the pushrod that actuates the master cyl. They come in different lengths, it's possible but not probable. Also there is an adjustment on the brake rod that actuates the brake booster. But try and re-bleed the system first. :toilet:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Definetly sounds like air and lots of it. You could also check the pushrod that actuates the master cyl. They come in different lengths, it's possible but not probable. Also there is an adjustment on the brake rod that actuates the brake booster. But try and re-bleed the system first. :toilet:
Pushrod's fine. Bled the system today myself with the help of a friend. The RR caliper (oddly enough, the one that was replaced) took forever to bleed anything past a trickle. Took about an hour and what seemed to be a million or so pumps of the brake, but the travel now is a world of difference from what it was before and stops on a dime.

To reiterate, AAA sucks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Glad to hear you fixed her. So what's next?:food-smiley-019:
Next real project would be to get a new motor and maybe get the electrical redone to incorporate an electric choke. Then suspension. Then exhaust. Then redo the entire interior. Then a paint job.

It's gonna be a while before I'm out destroying mustangs on the weekends. :thumbsup3:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Recently replaced the ... master cylinder (bench bled).... Brake pedal goes to about an inch from the floor before catching. Already received several suggestions on what the culprit may be however...what do you think, Smokin Vetterans?
Air in the system is the most likely culprit, as already pointed out. If the problem persists after bleeding, you might have the wrong master cylinder. There are three different masters for the C3:
  1. 1-1/8" diameter deep hole piston
  2. 7/8" diameter deep hole piston
  3. 1-1/8" diameter shallow hole piston
The smaller diameter was for manual brakes and the larger 1-1/8" were for power brakes. The 1968 through 1976 Corvettes had deep hole pistons and if you put one of those on a 77 or newer Vette there's going to be quite a bit of play. Here's the two masters side-by-side:


Only reason I mention this is that the deep hole is just about 1 inch deeper -- check the thumbnail.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,695 Posts
Brake Bleeding

If you'll notice the master cylinder in the C3's sits in a slightly nose up angle. To get all of the air out of the nose end of the master cylinder jack up the back end of the car until the master cylinder is sitting in a slightly nose down angle.......... then gently pump the brake pedal. Then whatever air was formerly trapped in the nose escapes thru the little "fill" holes in the top of the bore. A simple little trick I learned a long time ago.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
256 Posts
Pushrod's fine. Bled the system today myself with the help of a friend. The RR caliper (oddly enough, the one that was replaced) took forever to bleed anything past a trickle. Took about an hour and what seemed to be a million or so pumps of the brake, but the travel now is a world of difference from what it was before and stops on a dime.

To reiterate, AAA sucks.
I had a problem like yours on my '71. It seemed that nomatter what, I could not get all the air out of my brake system. Then one time, "Big T Machine" mentioned something about brake runout on somebody's post, He explained what it was and what caused it, and Mr. "Toobroke educated me on the tools needed and the method to fix it. I still had trouble bleeding the system properly. I finaly got one of those vacuum pump style bleeders and have been, like you, stopping on a dime ever since. The people on this forum have been invaluable in solving a lot of the Corvette only issues. I have resolved to do all of the work myself on my car from now on, with the help of the folks here. Thanks agian, Guys and Gals!

T.Huck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
523 Posts
you can try the rev. bleed where you actually push fluid from the brake caliper to the master cylinder.

Bleeding my C3's brakes have been the hardest and longest (time) than anyother brake system I've worked on.

Good luck
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top