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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I doubt the engineer who determined the battery location in C3's ever installed or removed one. Maybe on the assembly line they use an overhead chain hoist to drop the batteries in. What ever is the case I find it VERY hard to put them in or take them out; especially if they don't have built in carrying straps. For those that don't I have used two pairs of Vice Grips clamped onto the battery posts to install or remove them. The battery location from hell.

When the seat is removed it's still hard to put them in unless you have forearms like Arnold Schwartzenegger. I removed my battery this morning and had an awful time. Maybe I'm just getting too old.

I am having a very perplexing problem. It seems my negative battery cable isn't grounding even though I used my Dremel and grinding stone to clean the cross member where it bolts to. I even dipped the crimped-on eye in soldering flux and sweat soldered the eye onto the cable. I have cleaned the battery end of the cable until the wires are bright and shiny and installed the aftermarket ring terminal and it still won't pass any current. Only enough to light the interior lights. The moment I try to crank it the connection breaks and the interior lights go out.

Maybe the brass stud I have in the battery post isn't making a good contact inside the post BUT when I tighten the 3/8" flange nut on the ring terminal it puts a lot of pressure on the top of the post. So why is my connection breaking for no apparent reason? Tomorrow morning I'm going to check the tightness of the cable's ring terminal on the solenoid's top stud just to rule that out as a possible cause of its inability to crank.

I have a pair of aftermarket clamp-on battery terminals so I'll try those tomorrow morning. The type that clamp onto the posts.

Update 6-26-22: I discovered there is a break inside of my battery just under the negative post. It allowed my interior lights to burn but the moment I put a load on it the break opened up. So it's a defective battery.
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