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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
:doh:Guys I need help I have a 96 LT4 with alminum heads I read in a bool there was a recall about the antifreeze being used the tag on the tank says red, I went to a Cadillac dealer figure G M and the mechanic told me GREEN. I check mine and it is red. They say the wrong one hurts the water pump. Anyone know who is right. Next step is a Chevy dealer but the closest one is about 20 miles away. Thanks
 

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I believe 96 is when GM went to the red or Dexcool..but there were several lawsuits over the alum. corrosion problems with Dexcool..I m sure that problem is solved by now... I would stay with whats in it now, unless you flush completely to use the other..
 

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my 97 camaro had that dexcool (agent orange crap) It turned everything real nasty. Bought new radiator and went to the green stuff and couldn't be happier. Drain the orange death from your car is is bad news for a cooling system.
 

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Same subject: Anit-freeze and Thermostat combo

I'm glad this topic was brought up. A guy at work has been telling me that there is a Anti-freeze/Thermostat combination that helps with the persistent high water temp during hot summer days. Second hand information: replace thermostat with 160 degree Hypertech and use minus 40 degree advance antifreeze. Has anyone ever heard this? I need to do the research to make sure this antifreeze is compatible. The claim is that the operating temperature will be 20 degrees less.
 

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don t believe everything you hear... read the label, it claims it works best with straight water.. there are a number of brands that have similar products....40 Below, Water Wetter ,etc...some claim they saw a few degrees improvement.. I haven t seen it ,tho. .. the most effective way is to reset your cooling fans on/off temps...or get a better Radiator
 

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Best thing you can do is replace the radiator. At a 100-200 bucks it will be the best cooling upgrade you can do.

after that dexcool trashed my cooling system my camaro was always running hotter then normal. then it's plastic tank cracked and I bought a replacement one for 129.00 through autozone and new upper/lower radiator hoses.

Flushed system for about a hour and put new stuff in car, then used green extended life coolant and car runs great now. temps are at what I remember it acting like when it was new.

You won't regret a new radiator ... screw the additives no car should need that stuff if the cooling system is working perfectly.
 

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Screw the additives..........no car should need that stuff if the cooling system is working perfectly.

I agree. At the very best the additives will only reduce the temperature a few degrees. The "green" works well in everything but it does wear out and does need changing every two years. I have always used soluble oil in my cooling systems as it completely prevents the formation of hard deposits on the discharge ends of the radiator tubes and is perfectly safe to use with all metals. You can buy it from any auto parts store for about $20 per gallon but it does come in pint bottles for a lot less (but more per ounce naturally).
 

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Coolant Flush

Flushed system for about a hour and put new stuff in car, then used green extended life coolant and car runs great now. temps are at what I remember it acting like when it was new.
I going to go with system flush. I bought this car June of this year and I'm the third owner. I have no idea how old this red stuff is???? What's the best way to do the system flush yourself?
 

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I going to go with system flush. I bought this car June of this year and I'm the third owner. I have no idea how old this red stuff is???? What's the best way to do the system flush yourself?
On my 3.8 I removed the thermostat and put garden hose in and flushed it out the lower radiator hose and did that for about 45 minutes and my coolant has been green ever since.

Make sure you flush coolant recovery tank hoses and the tank as well.

I had thought about making a pipe with a garden hose fitting and attach it to the lower hose and flush it like boats are.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Antifreeeze

Thanks guys think I will flush it out and go GREEN the red was good for 100,000 miles the tag on the radiator said only have 44,000 so I will change it I check it and it is good for-34* don't get that cold here. What good is the water wetter? Cools the water?
 

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What good is Water Wetter?

What good is the water wetter? Cools the water?
My understanding of "Water Wetter" is that is raises the boiling temperature of the water/glycol mixture. Let's think about that for a moment???? Hot is Hot! What difference does it make...what the boiling points is. Max water temp on mine is 260 degees. So why would you want to raise the boiling point?
 

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no, its supposed to allow better heat transfer from engine to the coolant.... its not very effective ..it doesn t change the boiling point ..a standard 50/50 mix won t boil under pressure til about 260 degrees ...if you are running 260*, you got bigger problems
 

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My understanding of "Water Wetter" is that is raises the boiling temperature of the water/glycol mixture. Let's think about that for a moment???? Hot is Hot! What difference does it make...what the boiling points is. Max water temp on mine is 260 degees. So why would you want to raise the boiling point?

Many people don't understand why it's important to raise the boiling point of the coolant being used. When coolant boils it produces a lot of bubbles and bubbles don't allow the coolant to contact the hot surfaces and then carry away the heat. So the idea is to prevent the bubbles from forming by adding chemicals that keep the liquid.........uh liquid.

I have seen tests done in the past in which engines were operated in excess of 300 degrees without any damage as the coolant used wouldn't boil (I don't remember what kind of coolant was being used). As long as no boiling occurs the coolant maintains constant contact with the hot surfaces and carries the heat away. So as long as no boiling occurs it's perfectly safe to run engines clear up to 260 degrees but the elevated heat does tend to harden rubber and plastic parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well I got some news today. I just came from my local Chevy dealer and the service manager got on line to check about the 96 cars. In 96 G M recomends the RED for all it's cars. I told him I Had it in now he said leave it the stickers were changed by G M to go to red. Now I am really confused what do you all think??:duel: G M web site should stand be hind this ??? I think Green or red are both about the say theses days they say good for all cars .
 

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Many people don't understand why it's important to raise the boiling point of the coolant being used. When coolant boils it produces a lot of bubbles and bubbles don't allow the coolant to contact the hot surfaces and then carry away the heat. So the idea is to prevent the bubbles from forming by adding chemicals that keep the liquid.........uh liquid.

I have seen tests done in the past in which engines were operated in excess of 300 degrees without any damage as the coolant used wouldn't boil (I don't remember what kind of coolant was being used). As long as no boiling occurs the coolant maintains constant contact with the hot surfaces and carries the heat away. So as long as no boiling occurs it's perfectly safe to run engines clear up to 260 degrees but the elevated heat does tend to harden rubber and plastic parts.
not good for head gaskets either.....thats why cooling systems operate under 13-16 psi.. higher pressure increases boiling points ...boiling water doesn t absorb heat well
 

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Evan's coolant is the best period. Waterless coolant that lasts forever and eliminates corrosion permanently and has a boiling point of 300 degrees.

It's $39.00 a gallon but it's worth it.
 

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Evan's coolant is the best period. Waterless coolant that lasts forever and eliminates corrosion permanently and has a boiling point of 300 degrees.

It's $39.00 a gallon but it's worth it.
interesting...I was not familiar with Evans.. it would be good for a new build, with no water in anything ,otherwise the problem would be to remove all the existing water in the system
 
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