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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Any time you replace your upper and lower a-frame bushings you need to align your front end back to it's OEM specifications; the caster angle, the camber angle, and the amount of toe-in. There are two ways to go about it; the right way and the "*******" way (also known as the "string method") which simply means stretching a tight string along the side of your car to see if "them thar wheels line up". The problem with the "*******" way is the front wheels will shimmy something terrible when going around corners at speed so that is definitely NOT the way to do it. It might be okay for plowing thru mud at 5 mph but it's not okay for street use.

If you would like to learn the right way to adjust the caster and camber angles and then set the toe-in I'll be glad to walk you thru the simple process to achieve a perfect front end alignment for less than $10 and you can do it in your garage or on any other reasonably flat surface. Let me know if you're interested................
 

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:rofl: More BS. :doh:
I've been stringing race cars for 30+ years w/o any shimmy. We've won hundreds of races. I've even done both my vettes.
I also did alignments for 10 years in a shop before the new computers figured out everything for you.
You can screw up anything if the tools are used incorrectly . String is used to set the toe only , not caster/camber.
FYI , I've watched Indycar mechs string cars in the pits as well as Cup cars , Formula Atlantics and Indy Lights. They were not ********. They were engineers.
There is more than one method that works to do a proper alignment. :eek:wnedbutton:
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Aligning A C3 Front End At Home For Less Than $10

I will be more than happy to teach you the right way to set the caster, camber, and toe-in of a C3 front end at home but you have to be willing to learn.
 

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I'm only offering to give detailed instructions for the C1's thru C3's that use caster/camber adjustment shims on the upper a-frame.
I can still do that in my sleep, Others do need your directions though
 

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add neg camber , add shims front and rear ( the same size shim )
pos camber delete shims , delete shims front and rear ( the same size shim )
wanna do pos camber and pos caster ? add front shim only
Wanna do neg cam and neg caster? delete front shim
wanna do neg cam and pos caster? add rear shim only
want pos camber and neg caster? delete rear shim
want camber to stay the same but neg caster? take from rear and add to front ( the same size shim )
want camber to stay the same but pos caster ? Take from front and add to rear ( the same size shim )


but....the very first thing you do is worn parts check
second you do is air pressures
third , ride heights
fourth , measure caster and camber and adjust
fifth , set toe

if you need to learn how to measure these 3 things , google it
there are numerous DIY write ups and I don't feel like typing it all out
You need a caster camber gauge or digital level and some sort of slip plates
2 pieces of 1/8" thick sheet metal with grease ( for each front wheel) in between works good ( some use VCT but it's brittle)
you will also need toe plates or a toe bar , either works fine or string ( the best for cars with IRS )

On the dirt cars I could eyeball it to within a 1/8 degree
I used to eye ball customers cars before I threw them on the rack just to see how close I could guess the settings. After a few years I got very good at it
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I don't need a caster/camber gauge or a digital level or slip plates or a computer because I set the caster and camber angles with the wheels off....................
 

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oh please give us your pearls of wisdom............

there is no way to do an alignment accurately with the wheels off w/o special adapter to rest the car on. I've seen them and they are not worth the effort.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
That's a nice picture but what does it have to do with aligning the front end of a C3? Is there some sort of connection that I'm missing?
 

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it's the only way to align a car w/o wheels on......do I have to spell everything out for you ?
obviously you don't know what a mouseover is......
 

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my cheapo gauge cost that when I bought it but you can't do it with out the tires on accurately. You can't do it accurately w/o it setting on the tires. IDGAF what you say. I know better.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
After I lowered my C3 I took it to the local goodyear tire shop. front and rear was $80. Totally worth it rather than attempting to do it myself

If a person doesn't have much spare time to tinker on their C3's I can understand having the alignment done at a shop. But when tinkering on them is a hobby it's actually a lot of fun to be able to do it yourself and learn new things in the process. I have been aligning my own front ends since I was about 18 years old and once the skill is learned you can align any front end using only an inexpensive angle finder that can be purchased in any hardware store for a few bucks.
 

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My 70 has had three alinements in three years by two different shops and I am still not happy with it so I am up for learning the DIY method:)
At the moment is seems to have too much neg camber in front as well as possibly being toe out too much (tires wearing on the inside of the tread). Also would maybe benefit from more caster but tech said he couldn't get more as a wheel was touching the front guard when turning. I was wondering if the slotting of the A arm mod would help here?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
My 70 has had three alinements in three years by two different shops and I am still not happy with it so I am up for learning the DIY method:)
At the moment is seems to have too much neg camber in front as well as possibly being toe out too much (tires wearing on the inside of the tread). Also would maybe benefit from more caster but tech said he couldn't get more as a wheel was touching the front guard when turning. I was wondering if the slotting of the A arm mod would help here?

E-mail me at [email protected] and I'll walk you thru the process.
 

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:smilielol5::smilielol5:
 
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