Chevy Corvette Forum banner

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
new battery 2 weeks ago and you turn key nothing, even after charging a few hours, like the battery is disconnected.... :doh:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
908 Posts
This might be silly question but I need to ask anyway. Did you make sure that the connections are good? Did the battery charger complete the charge cycle?

Is the battery keeping it's charge?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
very good questions, I will recheck connections and try my other charger, Ive seen in the older tech pages to check clutch switch and grounds. I'll check all of these closer friday ( off work til MONDAY!!!) thanks for the input, I'll keep ya posted on the results....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Vettemagnet, I forgot to mention that all interior lites and horn works, the battery still has 11.7 volts by DIC, I would think I would aleast get a clicking when trying to start up....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
444 Posts
I had a similiar problem. All interior lights worked, but upon turning the key---nothing, not even clicks. I troubleshot my clutch safety switch, my ignition switch, but what it ended up being was my starter solenoid. An easy way to check was to see if my solenoid was getting voltage. Good voltage meant it was the solenoid. No voltage meant it was a bad relay or switch. I ended up swapping out my starter/solenoid, and it fixed it. Hope this helps. :cheers:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
908 Posts
Batteries can still show a voltage but not provide adequate capacity to turn the motor

Have an Auto parts store do a battery test which usually includes a performance and capacity tests. The device to test batteries have evolved into very high tech instruments that yield accurate results. Performance load testing is used to determining a battery's ability to produce current. Capacity load testing is for determining the Reserve Capacity or Amp Hour capacity of a battery. The primarily purpose of a car battery is to start an engine, so the battery's performance (or ability to produce high current) is an important test.

I would test the battery first. Even though its new doesn't mean that you got a good battery, I speak from experience here.

If the battery tests good then we will start testing and checking the battery cables.

Let us know! :coffeetime:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
908 Posts
I had a similiar problem. All interior lights worked, but upon turning the key---nothing, not even clicks. I troubleshot my clutch safety switch, my ignition switch, but what it ended up being was my starter solenoid. An easy way to check was to see if my solenoid was getting voltage. Good voltage meant it was the solenoid. No voltage meant it was a bad relay or switch. I ended up swapping out my starter/solenoid, and it fixed it. Hope this helps. :cheers:
:goodpost:

Good point here!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,616 Posts
I had the same problem . But it was the ing switch. Is your key every get stuck in the ing. switch ? or hard to pull out .If so the ing. switch is bad . The key has chips on it and inside the tumbler they have 2 tabs inside to make contact for your security system to work . but you can by pass the security system by checking the ohms on key chips then go get a ohm that size .the fine the black wire coming off you key switch . There is two wires in the loom cut it & put the resistor
between the two wires . ...............:patriot:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
908 Posts
I noticed that you had a service lock issue meanining that you must have worked through this issue.

So with this issue, what was the root cause?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,877 Posts
Did you get this worked out??

Vettemagnet, I forgot to mention that all interior lites and horn works, the battery still has 11.7 volts by DIC, I would think I would aleast get a clicking when trying to start up....
...The key has chips on it and inside the tumbler they have 2 tabs inside to make contact for your security system to work... :patriot:
Blaster, Mike makes a great point! I would try a simple test and check the exposed contacts for dirt, grime, oil, etc before bypassing what is refered to your VATS. (I think it stands for Vehicle Anti-Theft System...?)
Just use a little rubbing alchohol or electrical contact cleaner on a q-tip and clean both sides of the chip embedded in your key as well as inside your tumbler cylinder where it makes the connection. :coffeetime:
Happens to mine all the time and acts just like you describe. Mostly just oils and such from my hands that collect enough dirt to keep the resistor chip from making contact or changing the resistance value thereby "telling" the computer to prevent power to the starter, or something like that.
Another good quick test of this would be to try your spare key...:thumbsup3:

Not sure if the "service lock issue" means the infamous "column lock bypass"? I've never had that problem. If so, nevermind.... :food-smiley-019::smilielol5:

HTH!
:abduct:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
thanks everyone, I'll clean my key and try that, I talked to Oz he has a dia. tool and will check it out when he gets time, thanks and I'll keep you all posted on the results...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
well it cut off and I'd start and roll a bit and shut off, service column lock, pull key wait 10 seconds..... had to get a tow, firestone 2 blocks up, they replaced fuse 23 and the battery and it has a open ground and they cant find... so I took it home and would start it up every nite and let it idle 10 min or so, I drove it arround some 20 -30 min. all was well.. tried to start the next evening and nothing,put a slow charge over nite and nothing, tried my other charger the next day and nothing.. I can hear a click from comp. inside car, looked for fuses, tried to push in clutch switch and start nothing, tried to disconnect clutch switch but its stuck on afraid I'll break it. So up to now I proud of myself for not losing it (LOL)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Blaster, Mike makes a great point! I would try a simple test and check the exposed contacts for dirt, grime, oil, etc before bypassing what is refered to your VATS. (I think it stands for Vehicle Anti-Theft System...?)
Just use a little rubbing alchohol or electrical contact cleaner on a q-tip and clean both sides of the chip embedded in your key as well as inside your tumbler cylinder where it makes the connection. :coffeetime:
Happens to mine all the time and acts just like you describe. Mostly just oils and such from my hands that collect enough dirt to keep the resistor chip from making contact or changing the resistance value thereby "telling" the computer to prevent power to the starter, or something like that.
Another good quick test of this would be to try your spare key...:thumbsup3:

Not sure if the "service lock issue" means the infamous "column lock bypass"? I've never had that problem. If so, nevermind.... :food-smiley-019::smilielol5:

HTH!
:abduct:
Most auto parts stores sell electronic parts cleaner in a spray can. Probably the best thing you can use to clean the key chip.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Well I cleaned the key and chip well with alchol and q-tip and in the ignition switch but still nothing, that would have been too e-z (LOL) Oz came by and checked battery its good, checked clutch nothing, unable to get to starter to jump for the long tube headers, have to get under to test.... anyone know where the starter relay is located??? like to check before raising the car.. also turn headlites on and try to start the car headlites do not dim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
forgot to thank you guys for your input.. and I'll keep ya posted on the results... also its cold outside (LOL) ....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
444 Posts
Your starter relay or TDR (theft deterent relay) is located above your fuse box in your passenger footwell compartment. When you turn your key, you should hear a "click" coming from this relay. You should see a red wire, a purple wire, and a yellow/ black stripe wire coming out of the relay. The purple wire is your 12volt feed going to your starter. You can check voltage here to see if you have volts going through your relay and to your starter when you turn the key. If you hear the click and have voltage going to your starter, but still no start, then its more than likely the starter.This link will help.:cheers: http://www.c5help.com/c5_no_start.htm
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
thanks Dunc, I do hear a click pass. side floor.. opened cover and hear it well ..we'll try starter Sunday and go from there.. tried today and headers in the way...too bad I have long tube headers (lol) Thanks for info,,, I'll keep ya posted
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
hey everybody !!!!! I tried to start the vette and she fired up like nothing was wrong... I cant say why,,, the voltage was good,, and run like a crackhead that stole something...!!!! (thats really fast!!!) I'll keep you posted as it goes ....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Starter????????

new battery 2 weeks ago and you turn key nothing, even after charging a few hours, like the battery is disconnected.... :doh:
Tried to start up today and nothing again:eek2:Wife came out and tried while looking at the starter and can see sparks at the starter....does this sound like a loose connection or starter to you guy's?????:doh: (this is also under FIRED UP thread, so your not:z1-2: Sorry,,,
 

·
Smokin Vendor
Joined
·
612 Posts
Your starter is fried. As i posted before the starter is set too close to the exhaust manifold. This is a factory design defect as the heat causes the wires to burn. If you have done any engine upgrades will be worse as horsepower means more heat!! Ge a life time guaranteed starter as will happen again esp if you drive alot.
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top