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Discussion Starter #1
Im definitely swapping my stock trans for the 700r4. Now the biggest question is where can i get the best parts for the best price?? I checked out monster trans and they have an HD conversion package for about $1800. It includes:
√ 700R4 Heavy Duty Mega Monster Transmission, rated up to 500hp/450tq
√ Performance Torque Converter, your choice from 1650-2500 Stall
√ Universal Fillertube with updated Locking Dipstick
√ Updated Universal Fit Throttle Cable with metric bolt
√ Metric Linkage Nut
√ 2 Brass Coolant Line Fittings
√ Metric Torque Converter Bolts
√ Universal Transmission Mount with bolts
√ Speedometer Drive & Driven Gears
√ Speedometer Housing & Support Bracket
√ Speedometer Housing O-Ring
√ External Lock-Up Kit
√ 700R4 Chrome Throttle Cable Bracket
√ Hayden Transmission Cooler Kit
√ 700R4 Universal Dust Cover
Other DetailsWarranty:3 Year/Unlimited Mileage Horsepower Rating:Up to 500 HP Torque Rating:Up to 450 FT LBS

So just wonderin if this is a decent price and other than the driveshaft and crossmember what else i would absolutely need. And if anyone has done the swap, how much can i expect to pay for the labor?? Thanks for your help in advance.
 

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Monster s price on the kit is hard to beat.. as is the warrenty..If you don t need that strong , they have a 450hp version for less..for install, you will need the driveshaft to be shortened by 3inches [any driveshaft shop can do it for $100] the crossmember will need to be modified to move the mounting bolts rearward and the parkbrake cable pulley needs to move 1 inch to the drivers side..if you want full gear selection in manual, you need a shifter detent conversion kit [ Ecklers, $120] but its not mandatory, yours will work ,just without 1st gear position. they provide everything you need for lock-up converter to work.... Its some work to do, don t know what a shop will charge..But, if you do it, you will absolutely love the result as those of us who did it certainly do...If you decide to tackle it yourself, we can help.
 

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1800 bucks ?
That is a deal
 

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At the minimum, it's worth $1000 just for a stock-as-a-stick solid rebuild on a 700 with NO real upgrades. That's a new standard convertor, all the clutch and steels, seals, and a 10 vane pump with a Trans-Go shift kit, and a new filter.
 

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crap , it's 1500.00 around here just for the trans.....
 

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thats why I said, you ll have a hard time beating Monster s price on the kit... and I can vouch for their durability..I ve seen myself that they can take a beating... Rudy, If you do go with them, tell Jim over there I sent you.
 

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****! price went up the 700r4ss conversion kit was $1800 plus shipping, drive shaft ...
SS is the 650 HP& 600 torque trans
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Will do fishslayer. On the website it says your choice of stall 1650-2500. Anyone know exactly what that is and which wld be best??
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Also, I saw on the website that they have an aluminum driveshaft. Its about 600 bucks. Wonderin if that would be overkill. I was planning on getting a crate engine but due to funds ill probably get a top end kit from edelbrock for 410hp. I really dont need any more hp than that. I plan on driving it as much as possible whenever weather permits. Plus take it to the tracks here in joliet periodically for shits n giggles. I dont want anything breaking down on me...Any thoughts? I figure i might as well upgrade while im getting the job done
 

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Stall speed has lots of variables- cam, idle speed, car weight just start the list. You need to talk to the trans guys and tell them what you're doing with the car, and all the info about it, then listen to their recommendations..
 

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alum driveshaft is a waste of money..just get yours shortened..use the $500 you save for a roller cam set-up. as Tim said, stall has lots of variables. but basically its the rpm at which your converter will rev to without moving car under full power with your brakes locked .. Curt is the Tech guy at Monster, he can tell you which one, based on what you want to do.. I have their 2200 stall converter in mine
 

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Discussion Starter #12
thanks for all the good info. Maybe ill put that 600 toward the carb im in need of
 

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Will do fishslayer. On the website it says your choice of stall 1650-2500. Anyone know exactly what that is and which wld be best??

If you don't drag race your car I would use a stock stall speed (about 1400 rpm). I have a 2000 rpm stall in my '82 and at times I wish I would have gone stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Another ?? Is there any downside to putting in the 700R4 and keeping the engine stock for a while? I plan on upgrading the engine but it will probably be this fall
 

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none at all, in fact the lower 1st gear ratio will actually give you a little better acceleration from dead stop...and the overdrive gives about 30% better hiway mpg s
 

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Another ?? Is there any downside to putting in the 700R4 and keeping the engine stock for a while? I plan on upgrading the engine but it will probably be this fall

There's no downside at all. The TH700R4 was originally designed to be used behind the 4.3 liter V6's but later found their way behind even the big 454's. With some very inexpensive upgrades they'll easily handle the increased torque load. Just a hike in pressure, a Corvette servo, and either an 8 or 9 disc 3-4 clutch pack is all you need. I used aftermarket Fairbanks servos (about $90 each) as they provided 50% more band gripping power than the Corvette servos. But right after I rebuilt my TH700R4 I began having an unusual problem. After only 200 miles my filter seal failed and oil blew out of my dip stick tube whenever I pulled the 10 mile long 5% grade coming home. I replaced the filter with a new one and it's seal also failed within about 200 miles. So I replaced the seal with 3 common Viton o-rings and that cured my problem. I'm guessing cheap Chinese-made seals are finding their way onto American-made filters. The seals fail because they lose their tension the first time they get up to high temperature. Then once they lose their tension the pump starts sucking in air and the torque converter gets starved as most of it's oil winds up in the pan and overfills it.
 

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toobroke, are you using the filter seal that's red or orange and is kind of like a top-hat? GM changed over to that seal and redesigned the filter.
 

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toobroke, are you using the filter seal that's red or orange and is kind of like a top-hat? GM changed over to that seal and redesigned the filter.

It's orange and it's just a ring that has three outer ribs and one inner rib. After only 200 miles the ribs collapsed and wouldn't grip anymore. The later 4L60's used a completely different seal that is about 1/8" larger in diameter and is in the shape of a cup. And they won't interchange.
 

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I know its a 700 trans discussion but they sell tail ends to make the th350 into 1st under/over, 2nd under/over and 3rd under/over for $2,000 (last time I checked) the conversion is just bolt in so you save $300-400.
is it better than a 700 or worse?
 
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