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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay I am trying to get my 1/2 shafts out to replace the U joints. I figured the real tough part was going to be getting the bolts loose on the flange side of the shaft. Got that done but I cant figure out how to get at the u joint cap nuts to get them loose. I cant get a ratchet or breaker bar into the confined space due to the differential housing getting in the way. I have spun the shaft around in different positions but cant find a spot that works. I can get a 9/16 crescent wrench on the nuts , there is limited space to turn the wrench plus the wrench is way too short to get any decent leverage on it to loosen the nuts. And yes I sprayed PB blaster on them several times and let it sit for well over a week soaking before working on it. Any tips on this?
 

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I found this when I was working on my '66, but it should cover your '68.

Oh, and use the greaseless u-joints, they're stronger.

 

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I found thesewhen I was working on my '66, but it should cover your '68

Use solid greaseless u-joints. They're strnger


 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The problem is the differential case is in the way so you cant get a long extension in there. There is just enough room to get a socket on to the nut but not enough room to connect an extension or ratchet on to the socket. The best I can do is get a 9 /16 open end on it but I cant get enough leverage on a small wrench like that. Also thanks for the video suggestion but I'm not even up to that yet since I'm stuck trying to get the 1/2 shaft out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Okay finally got the nuts off but now cant budge the straps they are like fused around the u joint and are stuck in the diff flange. I was able to get one u bolt strap off with much hammering and using a chisel to get between the u joint and strap and eventually work the damn thing loose and out. But I cant get the last strap to budge. its like the strap is fused to the joint and its rusted into the flange. I have been at it for an hour with no success. I was considering cutting the strap part to try to get something wedged in there but I'm not sure if that would make matters worse and i.d never get the strap ends out of the diff flange. At this point I'm stuck. :frown2:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I figured out a way to get it out. on the first strap I was able to drive a chisel between the u joint cap and strap which allowed me to eventually work the strap out as I hammered on the chisel. well this last strap I could not get the chisel between the strap and cap. By hammering on the cap I was able to drive this last u joint out of the strap. Once out I placed a slightly smaller impact socket into the strap flange hole, put my chisel between the socket and strap and hammered away. As the strap moved out I replaced the socket withe the next size up and continued wedging the chisel in there until Eureka the damn thing finally came out! Hopes this idea helps the next guy in this fix. :smile2:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks. Now any suggestion on getting these caps off the u joints? i have looked at all the videos to press the u joint out using a ball joint removal tools. It works fine but the darn caps are so tight in there that when they are pressed out as far as they can go I cant twist the cap loose. i have soaked them with pb blaster, used a vise , channel locks and a pipe wrench. after an hour I managed to get only one cap out. the videos make it look so easy just grab it with a plier or put it in a vise and the twist loose. If I ever have a need to do the other 1/2 shaft I'm heading to the mechanic. This has been one PIA.
 

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Drive them out with a hammer and drift. from the other side ,or break them in the center . you are replacing the U-Joint.. wow They must really have rusted, that's not common. Was the car in a road salt area ? Usually a bench vise and a socket about the size of the cap will do it easily .. I would clean the hell out of them afterwards and use some rust preventer and paint ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
I finally got them out. 3 of the flat part of the caps exploded out of the removal tool I was using and I had to drive the sleeves out with a punch. I have bought some moog heavy duty u joints as a replacement. They are the greasable type I wanted non greasables but they had none. If I install these and never grease them again isnt it the same as having installed a greaseless unit or is there a special need to keep greasing the greasable joints? Seems like they would function just like the greaseless ones. Trying to decide return them vs use them.
 

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I finally got them out. 3 of the flat part of the caps exploded out of the removal tool I was using and I had to drive the sleeves out with a punch. I have bought some moog heavy duty u joints as a replacement. They are the greasable type I wanted non greasables but they had none. If I install these and never grease them again isnt it the same as having installed a greaseless unit or is there a special need to keep greasing the greasable joints? Seems like they would function just like the greaseless ones. Trying to decide return them vs use them.
The difference is the non greasable are SOLID and much stronger .. but because you cannot grease them, they will not have as long a lifespan..If your car is basically stock and you intend to stay that way, I would use the greasable type, every 50K miles , grease them
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I was wondering while I have the 1/2 shaft out if I removed the spindle hex nut holding the inner wheel bearing flange in place where the 1/2 shaft attaches to, is it possible to replace the inner wheel bearing. Not sure if it can be easily replaced or whether I would need special tools or the removal of the whole spindle assembly. Just figured since I was this far into it it might be doable. any suggestions?
 

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you could , the race won t come out tho, you need to drive it out from other side. but you need to check run out after .. max .006 inch .. Its the outer bearing that takes most of the load.. If you are that far, I would just do both and seals too.. Don t forget, 100 FT LBS Torque on that Nut..
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks . I think I'll just wait on that. My new problem is while trying to press the new u joint into the half shaft u joint flange it bent from the pressure now the u joint cross is stuck in the holes with not enough room to slide it out of the flange. So now I have to figure this one out. should have tried to take the inner wheel bearing flange off and bolted it to the ujoint flange but didnt want to struggle getting that spindle hex nut off. So much for trying a short cut.
 
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