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I've had my '99 for bout 4 months now. The oil & filter had just been changed at the dealer (per previous owner), and now I need to change it. I read the owner's manual and it says to contact the dealer for directions on how to change the oil. OK, need some help, as I would otherwise just drain it, change the filter, refill oil and go. What do I need to know folks? Also, do I use Mobil-1 or is there something else I should buy? And filter, head to my dealership? Thanks for help folks. Greg.............
 

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Mobile 1 Syn is all I use. Get some Race Ramps and a good low profile jack for the back and a alum roasting pan or a couple and read the service manual on the rest. Pretty simple. Someone will have the best way on here soon..........
 

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Thanks Rude, I appreciate you taking time to respond. In my ignorance, isn't changing oil just like any other car? And yes, I read only synthetic, thought I'd probably use 5w30 Mobil 1 unless someone suggests otherwise. I'm a new, and absolutely loving it, Corvette owner. What a machine.... Thanks again, Greg.....
 

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There's nothing more to it than what you've stated in your initial post. The hardest thing to do is jacking up the car. Things to note:

1. Use fully synthetic 5W-30 oil (I prefer Mobil 1).
2. Do NOT over-tighten the drain plug. Tighten the engine oil drain plug to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).
3. Do NOT over-tighten the oil filter. Tighten the engine oil filter to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
4. There are 8 specific spots that can be used to raise the C5. They are listed in your owner's manual. Jacking pucks are a must have with this car.
 

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There's nothing more to it than what you've stated in your initial post. The hardest thing to do is jacking up the car. Things to note:

1. Use fully synthetic 5W-30 oil (I prefer Mobil 1).
2. Do NOT over-tighten the drain plug. Tighten the engine oil drain plug to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).
3. Do NOT over-tighten the oil filter. Tighten the engine oil filter to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
4. There are 8 specific spots that can be used to raise the C5. They are listed in your owner's manual. Jacking pucks are a must have with this car.
Excellent post, Thanks JunkMan!
 

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With out pucks, I think there are only two points to raise the car, so the pucks are a big help and do not cost that much. I only use Mobile 1. Change mine @ 50%.
David
 

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I've had my '99 for bout 4 months now. The oil & filter had just been changed at the dealer (per previous owner), and now I need to change it. Greg.............
Greg,

You said "now I need to change it", which leads me to ask why you think so. What percentage is your oil life system indicating, or are you getting the "CHANGE OIL SOON" message?

Gone are your Grandfathers days when conventional wisdom was to change the oil every 3,000 miles, or even every 6,000. You can change it that often if you want to, but it isn't necessary.

Assuming the previous owner used Mobil 1 5W-30, and that you will too, you'll be perfectly safe to heed your oil life computer, and change it either annually or when the computer tells you to, whichever comes first. I'm told it's not unusual to go more than 15,000 miles between changes. David says he changes his when the oil life system says 50%. I'd be curious to know how many miles it takes him to reach the 50% mark.

Mine just had it's first oil change ever, about 100 miles ago. It only had 2,000 miles on it, but I wanted to get that 7 year old oil out of it. I reset trip odometer B so I can track miles vs oil life remaining. I bought the oil and filter at Walmart, and the local Chevy dealership only charged me $9.95 labor to change it for me.

You will use 6 1/2 quarts of Mobil 1 5W-30, and an AC Delco PF46 filter or equivalent. Your owners manual will tell you to use a Delco PF44. Ignore the owners manual. The 20 micron PF44 has been superceded by a 10 micron PF46. If you prefer WIX you want a WIX 51042.

Like Junkman said, the only thing hard about changing the oil in one of these things is getting it in the air high enough to get to the drain plug.

Do yourself a favor and search this forum (or other Corvette forums) until you're familiar with why you need pucks, how to use them, get some ideas on ramps, and know exactly where you can lift with a jack. There are only a few low profile jacks made, that will even get under these things. I'm going to build some ramps and get some pucks, but as long as the dealership only charges me $10 labor, I'll be happy to let them change my oil.
 

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Very good post Silver. Some good points made. :thumbsup3:

With out pucks, I think there are only two points to raise the car, so the pucks are a big help and do not cost that much. I only use Mobile 1. Change mine @ 50%.
David
No, there are 8 total, 4 without the pucks. Check your owner's manual.
 

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No, there are 8 total, 4 without the pucks. Check your owner's manual.
It's difficult (impossible) to get the car jacked up without a low profile jack unless you have the pucks, but driving up onto a couple of chunks of 2x6 will get enough height to use a normal floor jack. The pucks are easy to make if you live somewhere you can buy hockey pucks. Mine cost about $10 for the set for all the pieces to make them. Commercial ones are pretty, but cost 7-8X as much. Search the forum for the thread(s) on the subject.

My standard ramps wouldn't work as the air dam would hit and push them away, but I stacked and nailed together some pieces of 2x6 for extensions and now just use ramps like with other cars. I'm too cheap to spend the money on the low profile ramps, plus once the car is on the ramps, you can move the extensions out of the way.

The service manual also says to fill the oil filter before installing (mentioned previously), and also says to jack the rear of the car up so it is level or slightly above the front, so all the oil drains. I always do, but it's probably not that big of a deal to leave a little old oil in it.
 

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buy rhino ramps and you don't have to play around
all that other crap is pure bovine scatology
 

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