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Discussion Starter #1
I am out here in CA normaly it not very cold out here.

But after the New rebuild I have notice that it run cold.

The outside temps are around 27 in the mornings and 50 in the afternoons.

My water temps are 160 to 170 the oil temp read LOW or 160 or so. at stop lights the oil temps will read low.

Before the rebuild it ran 190 ish range the fans would kick on at 230.

After the rebuild and running the motor in the garage the fans woud kick on around 230 also the water temps were normal the oil temps were lowwer due to the new engine oil cooler that I installed during the rebuild.

Anyone out there know what would cause this.

I also have notice the car starts to miss at a stop light when the oil temps starts reading low temp good oil pressure still around 20 Psi after the car get up to running temps 40 to 50 when cold.

I checked the fans they are NOT always running.
 

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Did you do the rebuild or did you have it done? Is it possible that a lower temperature thermostat was put in. Sounds like a 165.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I did my own rebuild I use the old thermostat from the old motor.

Did you do the rebuild or did you have it done? Is it possible that a lower temperature thermostat was put in. Sounds like a 165.
 

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I did my own rebuild I use the old thermostat from the old motor.
It was just a thought. The only other time I have seen symptoms like you are describing is when someone put the thermostat in backwards. But that was not on a 'Vette.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If I recall the themrosts only go in one way.

It will not fit if it upside down.
 

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I did my own rebuild I use the old thermostat from the old motor.
It was just a thought. The only other time I have seen symptoms like you are describing is when someone put the thermostat in backwards. But that was not on a 'Vette.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I picked up a new thermostgst after work today i swap it out this comming this weekend.

I also change out the intake manifold gaskets AGAIN but this time I not going to uuse those Rubbewr end gaskets that keep on blowing out and leaking oil.

I going with 100% RTV on the block to intake on the ends ONLY.

I read thwea the Factory dont even use those worthless rubber gaskets any more.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The car had not over heating of running too cold at first after the rebuild.
 

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but this time I not going to use those rubber end gaskets that keep on blowing out and leaking oil.

I have always used the neoprene end gaskets and I've never had any trouble whatsoever. I first thoroughly clean the mounting surface with gasoline and a rag then I glue the gaskets down with 3M-8008 weatherstripping cement. Then I let the cement cure for about an hour before I set the manifold on. But it's real important to set the manifold straight down to avoid pushing the gasket sideways. I've rebuilt at least 100 small and big blocks and never had one leak yet. After I torque the intake down I re-torque it several minutes later. Then I re-torque it again several hours later. I rebuilt a 454" recently and was quite surprised over how far the bolts turned after waiting 24 hours. As the side gaskets continue to compress after the initial torquing it doesn't hurt to re-torque the bolts several times during the first 6 months.
 

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As I have never had any of those neoprene end gaskets leak in at least 100 rebuilds that tells you I'm doing something right. The secret is preparing the gasket's mounting surfaces and using a good quality gasket cement. Don't ever try to use silicon to hold those gaskets in place as the silicon will squish out and the gasket will slide out of place. Only use 3M-3001 (yellow) or 3M-8008 (black) weatherstripping cement or the equivalent. Then before setting the manifold down put a dab of gasket cement on the top corners of the gaskets. And then once installed re-torque the manifold bolts several times as the side gaskets will continue compressing after the initial torquing.
 

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As I have never had any of those neoprene end gaskets leak in at least 100 rebuilds that tells you I'm doing something right. The secret is preparing the gasket's mounting surfaces and using a good quality gasket cement. Don't ever try to use silicon to hold those gaskets in place as the silicon will squish out and the gasket will slide out of place. Only use 3M-3001 (yellow) or 3M-8008 (black) weatherstripping cement or the equivalent. Then before setting the manifold down put a dab of gasket cement on the top corners of the gaskets. And then once installed re-torque the manifold bolts several times as the side gaskets will continue compressing after the initial torquing.
THAT MAY WORK SOME OF THE TIME, BUT THAT 3m YELLOW DEATH ADHESIVE IS MESSY AND DIFFICULT TO WORK WITH. Forget the 3M weatherstrip ADHESIVE and the rubber or cork gaskets, both usually supplied. Clean all the metal surfaces of any traces of oil or grease. i use alcohol. lacquer thinner or acetone. then lay down a proper thickness bead of "The Right Stuff" and carefully place the manifold into position. No gaskets to pop out, no leaks, no muss or fuss.

RACE ON!!!
Jim
 

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prep is key to success , as it is in almost everything
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Change out the intake manifold gaskets do to the oil leak cahn ge out the Therostat out for the running cold Issues.

I have not driven the car yet I just waiting for the ground to dry out some before I take for a drive.

The road leading up to our garage is a dirt road it mudddy now.

Bt Idleing in the garage the water temp got up to 195 to 200 so thats better.

The good new is when I took the distrbitor cap I found out my NEW rotor was comming apart good find if did come apart driving it that could been a bad thing.
 

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The good new is when I took the distrbitor cap I found out my NEW rotor was comming apart good find if did come apart driving it that could been a bad thing.
That happened to me last summer; I had fuel air and spark, and for some reason it ran on starter ether. I was chasing dozens of problems from vats to ecm's; when all failed I decided to check the timing. When I took the distributor cap off the rotor had come unscrewed and rotated 90* so I still had spark but not at the right time.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So far it good I took the car for a short drive today the Water temp came to 205.

The oil temp was comming up to normal before I parked it.

And NO more oil leaks
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Marv, hows the transmision working now. Did you get that problem resolved?
Ha Ha you funny still it a POS.

I have heard back form the BBB they went form a A rating to a F rating so far the BBB said they never got back with them on what going on this will stay with them for 3 years.

But If someone else reports them the BBB can pull there Busniss licenes.

I still waiting on the BAR to get back with me to find out what they say.

Next step If the Trans shop will not return my money to me Is smalls claims court If the Jugement is my side and they can tell them to pay me back for the amount due But at the time they can not make them pay up..

But I can put a Lean on then where the sheirff will raid there bank account or stand at there cash register and reach in and take all the money owed untill its paid in full.

All these extra stuff will cost me But All I have to do is Charge the Trans shop to get all my money and time back from them.

For now I just waiting to hear back from the BAR and go from there But I think I got them by you know what.
 
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