I am swapping out my stock 350cid with a 383cid 405hp/450 torque from Blueprint engines (Summit Racing) and am running a new 700R4 from Monster Trans. I have a couple questions...Has anyone heard anything bad about Blueprint Engines? And when I install the motor, can I use my stock radiator if I have it cleaned, rodded and checked? I don't want to run hot if I need a bigger radiator. Can I use my stock flex plate on the engine swap from my stock engine to a crate engine? What is recommended?
stock radiator in good condition is fine..I have no overheating issues with 525HP and the stock radiator ....no on the flexplate ..383 requires a weighted plate not a neutral plate ..didn t your new motor come with one? or has it not arrived yet ?Blueprint can provide you with the proper flexplate ... they have a very good warranty , one of our members had a failure after warranty expired, and they still made it good.
Be sure and tell them what trans you're using= the 700 convertor bolt pattern is a little different than a 350/400. Like just enough the bolts won't fit. Some flexplates are drilled for both. But it's certainly a PITA to find out AFTER you get the trans all bolted in.
OK, guys, I am back!! I installed my new Blueprint crate motor (Dyno'd 417hp) last night and ready to install my Monster Tranny 700R4 tonight (with my new driveshaft). I would like to know what is a good radiator setup and thermostat setting to go with? Go back with original fan, electric fans, aluminum radiator? :thumbsup3:
Not sure how far you want to go with it, but I went with Dewitts aluminum radiator, dual spal fans, 160 thermostat, did a serpentine conversion from an 89' Firebird and used an Edelbrock Victor Jr reverse flow waterpump, and a March underdrive pulley set.
I am transferring everything from my old carb to the new and I have a wire from my automatic choke. I guess I don't need this wire because it doesn't look like an auto choke on the new one. There are a lot of changes from my original motor to this 1986 and up style. I hope I don't miss anything. I brought over my throttle cable holder, cruise control and the parts for my detent cable. I hope I get the detent cable on right, I hear horror stories about that.
I am also going with new parts for the starter, alternator, power steering pump, oil sending unit, and temperature sensor. Any other suggestions? Of course, new belts and hoses, thermostat housing and thermostat (160F ???).
Does the stock fan make too much noise? I hear people say that but I never heard it or it never bothered me. I think I will reuse it and go with a new aluminum radiator. How many passes should it have? 2 or 3?
I have installed the new Blueprint engine and now working to get my accessories back on. I am having issues with the pulleys lining up and I even had to purchase a short nosed water pump. My pulleys still don’t line up. Do you have any clue why this is? Should I install a serpentine belt/ pulley system since the block is a 1986 or newer? If I do, doesn’t it take a reverse flow water pump? And maybe a different style power steering pump? Any info would be helpful. Thanks.
If your damper isn't all the way on it's very possible the small Woodruff key has rolled and if it has the damper will have to be removed and the key re-positioned. With your original pulleys mounted on the water pump the rear of the pulleys should exactly line up with the front of your damper..................
which one doesn t line up? or is it all? 80 or 86 ,The block is no different in the front. ALL Your original 1980 pulleys should still work with a Corvette short waterpump with 3/4 inch shaft.. is your Harmonic Balancer all the way in?
It measures the same distance from the timing cover as on the old motor. I am assuming it is all the way in. Send me a pic of your pulleys to make sure I am installing the same as I took off, I believe I am.
Your original water pump was a short nose so why did you have to buy another one? During this engine swap you needed to use your same pulleys along with everything else so what have you changed?
If you re using all the old pulleys and a Short pump, and the Balancer is the only thing new, and you say its all they way in, then maybe its not the same thickness as original
Question about the fuel pump and lines... I have 2 lines coming from the tank, I assume one is a return or vapor line and I only have one port in my fuel pump ("IN") and one line ("OUT") going to the carb. What do I need to do?
The OEM fuel pumps have a 1/4" return line that just allows a continuous flow of fuel so it has a chance to cool off. It's a great idea but not absolutely necessary so the return line can be plugged without any harm.
A long pump was sent with my motor and after getting a new short water pump and tightening all pulleys, everything lined up. whew!! Now the challenge of changing the heater hoses!!! Can't get to the top clamp behind the A/C box.
Those two clamps are hard to get to but when you put them back on position them so you can get to them with a nut driver or ? easier. You often have to use an open or box end wrench and once you get the clamp loose and slid down CUT the hose with a real sharp knife instead of trying to twist it loose.
while the ENGINE was out would have been a good time..lol!..Glad your pulleys weren t a problem after all. Didn t think they would be.. Have you cranked that beast up yet?
OK, finally got the heater hoses off and new ones installed. The bigger heater hose goes to the water pump and the smaller one goes to the intake manifold? Anyone have a simple diagram? Or is this right?
I agree, stay away from a 160 T-stat.. you want COLD air, not a cold motor
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