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Discussion Starter #1
My small block start fine when the engine has not reached operating temp.
However when it reaches operating temp at times the engine won't crank and won't start.
for example the other day I took it out for a spin on the interstate drove about 60 miles stopped
to get gas and after filling up she would not crank.
I had to jump the solenoid (with the key in the run position) to get it to start.
I drove 6 miles further to my buddies house and shut the car off . Went to restart it and it started right up
like it was supposed to.
I've replaced the ignition switch on the column and the harness from the starter solenoid to the firewall.
Any help on what else to check would be GREATLY APPRECIATED.
 

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My small block start fine when the engine has not reached operating temp.
However when it reaches operating temp at times the engine won't crank and won't start.
for example the other day I took it out for a spin on the interstate drove about 60 miles stopped
to get gas and after filling up she would not crank.
I had to jump the solenoid (with the key in the run position) to get it to start.
I drove 6 miles further to my buddies house and shut the car off . Went to restart it and it started right up
like it was supposed to.
I've replaced the ignition switch on the column and the harness from the starter solenoid to the firewall.
Any help on what else to check would be GREATLY APPRECIATED.
All of the G.M. cars came with a 2-gauge aluminum ground cable with crimped on aluminum ends. Over time the aluminum inside the crimped on ends corrodes which causes very high resistance to current flow; causing "hot start" problems until the connection cools off. The cable I'm referring to is the engine block to frame ground cable that attaches to the block just ahead of the starter and to the underside of the frame. The original cables are 16" long and 2-gauge aluminum so replace it with a common 18" 4-gauge copper cable with crimped on copper ends; available from every auto parts store, Walmart, and most lumber yards. When copper corrodes it produces copper oxide that is almost as conductive as pure copper so replace that lousy aluminum cable as soon as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Update
Found the problem to my " no start when hot " condition.
The stud on the starter solenoid was loose in the casing.
I removed the nut and the cable and tightened the nut that secures the stud to the casing and that corrected the problem.
 

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Update
Found the problem to my " no start when hot " condition.
The stud on the starter solenoid was loose in the casing.
I removed the nut and the cable and tightened the nut that secures the stud to the casing and that corrected the problem.
You still need to replace the 2-gauge aluminum block-to-frame ground cable because it WILL cause hot start problems in the future.
 
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