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Discussion Starter #1
So I pulled the trani and R&R'd the clutch fork (note that it was bad in attached pic) on my '73 but after I put everything together, I had no pedal. I maxed out the adjustment on the rod and got some clutch but it seems to be going away again! Brand new Ram clutch. Any thoughts?

OK, cannot attach pic for some reason but trust me, the fingers on the retaining tab are half as long as they should be. Didn't realize they needed to be longer when I R&R'd motor since old clutch had worked just fine.
 

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Are you saying that the fingers that holds the throw-out bearing were worn down and shorter??? How is that possible in the first place?
I can't post pictures either so I get that, but is your new fork longer? This just seem weird.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Are you saying that the fingers that holds the throw-out bearing were worn down and shorter??? How is that possible in the first place?
I can't post pictures either so I get that, but is your new fork longer? This just seem weird.
On one side of the fork is a plate which holds the t/out brg at one end and clips the fork to the pivot ball at the other. At the ball end, the "fingers" that clip behind the ball were shorter than they should be on the old one Apparently broken off at some time in the past). New one is correct and I just didn't know the first one wasn't right until it slipped off the ball and I looked through the bell housing opening and then researched it.
 

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The throwout bearing fits over the end of the fork so the groove in the bearing has the fork on the front and the ends of the spring clip on the back. The spring on the ball socket just clips over the ball.
I'm guessing you have way too much free play so the clutch won't release. Usually, either the throwout bearing is wrong for the application, or (once in a while), the fork pivot ball comes unscrewed, moves the fork to the rear, and not enough travel.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The throwout bearing fits over the end of the fork so the groove in the bearing has the fork on the front and the ends of the spring clip on the back. The spring on the ball socket just clips over the ball.
I'm guessing you have way too much free play so the clutch won't release. Usually, either the throwout bearing is wrong for the application, or (once in a while), the fork pivot ball comes unscrewed, moves the fork to the rear, and not enough travel.
Thanks, I know all that as I have now R&R'd damn thing twice, once from the engine side and then by pulling the trani. The ball is fine and I can't see any other problems. The new throwout bearing came with the clutch and looks just like the stock one that came out. Now, I have a new fork and thats why I am confused. I spoke to Ram and Summit and that is the clutch kit for the application. I am thinking of simply fabricating an extension for the rod to extend it. Someone else said there may be a problem in the pivot under the dasn but the travel from the pedal to the rod at the firewall looks good and so does the pivot mechanism but I am going to give that another look.
 

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Most likely you have a pivot ball adj. problem. Also check the throw-out bearing or a linkage adj. outside of that, there isn't anything else that could go wrong. :coffeetime:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Most likely you have a pivot ball adj. problem. Also check the throw-out bearing or a linkage adj. outside of that, there isn't anything else that could go wrong. :coffeetime:

Thanks. Does the pivot ball adjust by turning it in the bell housing? I thought that was just to R&R it. I bought a new one but couldn't get the old one loose. It looked OK so I left it rather than risk cracking the bell housing. It is screwed all the way in so should have adjustment if thats how it works although if I back it off, I think it will be going the opposite way that I need to. Is it opposite threads?
 

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Usually the ball pivot threads into the bellhousing with a locking nut to hold it in place. Does your have the lock nut? To my knowledge the threads are right hand.
 

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Usually the ball pivot threads into the bellhousing with a locking nut to hold it in place. Does your have the lock nut? To my knowledge the threads are right hand.

I believe the threads are 3/4" national fine and there is a 3/8" allen head at the back end that can easily be seen right under the upper/left side transmission mounting bolt. To tighten the ball just turn the allen head portion of it counterclockwise.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Usually the ball pivot threads into the bellhousing with a locking nut to hold it in place. Does your have the lock nut? To my knowledge the threads are right hand.
No lock nut on this version, just screws in from the back side of the bell housing.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I believe the threads are 3/4" national fine and there is a 3/8" allen head at the back end that can easily be seen right under the upper/left side transmission mounting bolt. To tighten the ball just turn the allen head portion of it counterclockwise.
You are correct on the specs. So if I tighten counterclockwise, that is what I would call opposite threaded and maybe thats why I couldn't get the old one out!

Does loosening it (clockwise) adjust the ball or is it designed to be adjustable? That would be the opposite way I need for it to go to get some pedal anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
BTW, it was suggested to me today that I may need to install a longer throwout bearing. I agree that could be a fix, I just don't want to R&R that darn trani again. Mys olution is to extend the clutch rod that comes through the firewall-I only need another 1/2 inch or so (no jokes here please!) to make it work.
 
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