[RJP]

Anyone successful lowering heat with replacement two core aluminum radiator that does not require modifications to shroud? If so what brand?

[vetteoz]

Doesn't mater how big your radiator is , engine temp is still a function of when the thermo opens and what temp the fan(s) run.
A larger radiator just gives you more heat sink capacity
What temps are you running that you need to lower?

[vettex2]

be-cool . drops right in
a bigger radiator is far better way to maintain decent operating temps than fooling with t-stats.

[Seabee 86]

I believe your tstat is pivotal on your outside air temperature, you should consider that before swapping it out.

[fishslayer143@yahoo.com]

a thermostat only sets the minimum temp your engine runs, not the maximum .. even with a 160* T-stat ,the engine can still reach 228* or whatever temp your fans are set to come on ..you will need to reprogram fans and or use a better radiator to keep it there.. but theres just no advantage to running an engine at 160*....you want COLD AIR , not a cold engine , and engine oil needs to reach 210*

[1994MLC]

December 2012 there was a thread discussing this issue. See C4 Tech & Performance. Thread title "Antifreeze". On 90 degee days I was seeing persistent water temperatures at 240 plus degrees. So even though the electric fan was kicking on at 228 degees; temperatures remained at 240 degees. This was quite unnerving. A kind gentleman from California (Toobroketoretire) had personally contacted me and educated me on this topic. Everything stated in this post and the Decembers post are true. To summarize, you can narrow down to three major factors. 1) Antifreeze: as antifreeze ages the boiling temperature threshhold drops. New 50/50 antifreeze boils at 260 deg. Then boiling temps start dropping affecting coolant effeciencies. Coolant flush recommended every two years. 2) Radiator: for some reason GM used single tube radiators. Why? Doesn't make sense. This really limits your heat sink. Plus as the core ages; it corrodes and restricts flow. As most of our radiators are approximately 20 years old, you can be sure you have corrosion. 3) Electric fan: For my 94 the fan kicks on at 228 degrees. There are ways to drop this thermostatic threshhold.
What I ended up doing was replacing radiator with a two row direct fit aluminum made by DeWitt and flushing the coolant. DeWitt makes a fine product at about 60% the cost of a BeCool. And Frankly, I think they are designed a bit better. I finished this project 8 pm this past new years eve. So I won't see any 90 degree days in Western Pennsylvania this time of year. I am expecting to see some improvement by doubling the heat sink capacity (I would be happy with mid to high 220's). But I'm also planning on coverting the electric fan switch to a lower temperature if needed. I also remember reading, where someone replaced their single tube radiator with a new single tube and seen temperature improvements. I suspect corrosion was a factor. One last thing...go green on your antifreeze. If you have red antifreeze...get that junk out of your engine.

[vettex2]

I've had be cool and dewitts
the be cool fit better

my car runs about 2 degrees higher than the t-stat (192) even in 110 degree heat , in traffic

[vetteoz]

Originally Posted by vettex2

my car runs about 2 degrees higher than the t-stat (192) even in 110 degree heat , in traffic

What temp is your fan set to run?

[vettex2]

Dunno , stock , never changed it

[RJP]

Thansk for all the info. To answer a few of the quewstions:

1) I change coolent every 2 years but I have only owned the car 10 years, not sure about the first 11
2) I have a hypertech chip so I use a 160 degreee thermostat
3) As far as when the fans kick on I have not moidified anything there, not sure if the chip may have something in it?

Thanks again, pretty sure I'll try a new two core radiator at this point.