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loafing cylinder
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#1 |
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Smokin Member
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Just rebuilt my sbc 350. Line bored, new crank, pistons, World Heads, New Comp roller cam and lifters, performer intake, 600 cfm Holley, Accel dist and wires, Hooker side mount headers. rebuilt the engine installed in my 79 Vette, fired it up, timed it at about 6 degrees advanced at 900 RPm. Engine idled perfectly. Ran it about 10 minutes and shut it down to check for leaks and etc. Checked fluids throughout and let the engine cool down for about 12 hours. Re-fired it and I have a cylinder loafing. Replaced all the wires, plugs and distrib cap and rotator. Removed the valve covers and checked for any rocker arm or valve issues. Everything thing checked out and I still have a cylinder that is loafing. Do you think I might have a bent push rod or could I have damaged one of the lifters? I hate to tear it down if I don't have to. Share your thoughts please....
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#2 |
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Smokin 5000HP+ Posting Maniac
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are you sure you don t have a plug wire crossed? see if you have spark at that cylinder..a bent pushrod , would be obvious as the rocker arm would be loose.....when you say you checked out valve train, did you re-adjust them or just do a visual inspection?..hydraulic roller lifters should be 1/4 to 1/2 turn past zero lash
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#3 | |
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Smokin 5000HP+ Posting Maniac
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Quote:
Please tell us what you mean by "loafing". Are you saying it's missing or are you saying it's weaker than the other 7 cylinders? |
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#4 |
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Smokin Member
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When I did the visual inspection, I loosened ask of the rocker arms by 1/4 of a turn because I thought I over tightened them when I preloaded the lifters.
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#5 |
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Smokin Member
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When I removed the valve covers to inspect it, I loosened the rocker arms 1/4 of a turn because I thought I might have over tightened them when I preloaded the lifters. Could that be the issue ?
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#6 |
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Smokin 5000HP+ Posting Maniac
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no, if the rockers were a little loose, the cylinder would still fire ,it would just be as if the cam was smaller , the rockers would just make a clicking noise . but if one is too tight, and not closing, it would cause the miss, and likely a popping noise in the exhaust or intake ... when you adjusted valve lash, did you do each cylinder at its own TDC , or did you do them all at #1 TDC?...I m curious, why did you wait 12 hrs to restart? pull the plug on the dead cylinder and see if its firing, or wet with fuel..
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#7 |
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Smokin Member
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Waited 12 hours because my wife had some stuff for me to do. I adjusted valves just as they sat. I just tightened all of 1/2 turn as it sits and now it wont start.
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#8 |
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Smokin 5000HP+ Posting Maniac
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well then, thats your problem..you cannot adjust all 16 at the same time without rotating engine to put the lifters on the base of the lobe for each one.. follow this HYDRAULIC LIFTER CAMSHAFTS
When the exhaust valve just begins to open on the #1 cylinder, adjust the #1 intake valve by loosening the adjusting nut slightly while spinning the pushrod until you feel lash in the rocker arm. Tighten the adjusting nut until the slack is taken out of the rocker arm and pushrod. Lightly turn the pushrod with your fingers as you tighten the adjusting nut, and you should feel a point where there is a little resistance. This is called zero lash – the point where you have taken all of the excess slack out of the pushrod. Turn the adjusting nut ½ turn past this point, giving you optimal pre-load for the rocker arm, pushrod and lifter. Follow this procedure by carefully adjusting each intake valve according to cylinder firing order. Next, we’ll adjust the exhaust valves. To do so, you need to turn the engine over until the intake pushrod moves all the way up. Rotate just past maximum lift, where the intake will begin to close. The lifter is now at the base circle, and the exhaust valve can be adjusted. Note: DO NOT go too far down (over halfway) past the point of maximum lift. If you go too far, you will be in the overlap cycle – where intake valve lash is being taken up as the exhaust valve begins to open. Rotate the exhaust pushrod with your fingers and begin to tighten the exhaust adjusting nut. When you begin to feel resistance against the pushrod, you are once again at zero lash. Tighten the adjusting nut another ½ turn. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. Repeat through the firing order until the lash on every exhaust valve has been set |
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#9 |
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Smokin 5000HP+ Posting Maniac
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There is another method that is much easier and is how I have adjusted my valves my whole life. First of all the damper must be marked in 4 places 90 degrees apart around it's circumference. Then after it gets marked bar the crank over to 10 degrees ahead of #1 TDC of the compression stroke. Set both of the #1 valves then bar the engine over to 10 degrees ahead of the next mark on the damper. That's #8 and you adjust both of it's valves. Then bar the engine over to 10 degrees ahead of the next mark and that's #4. Set both valves and continue on until all 16 are set. It only takes two complete rotations of the crankshaft to set all 16 valves.
So why the 10 degrees ahead instead of TDC? The 10 degrees ahead puts the intake valve lifters on the lowest part of the camshaft lobes. But you can use TDC for stock hydraulic camshafts as their lobes have very short clearance ramps. And remember, the firing order of a Chevrolet V8 is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 Last edited by toobroketoretire; 07-29-2012 at 01:04 PM. |
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#10 |
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Smokin Member
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Thank you everyone! The wife's Honey do list is finished and tomorrow evening is my time in the garage. I'll try doing it the right way this time, sometimes this **** makes you just shake your head. But oh how sweet when it ask comes together and that engine just sits there are growls!
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