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SmokinVette.com Forums : Corvette Forums : C3 Corvette Forums : C3 Corvette General Discussion : tailing arm removale question
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Old 07-17-2012, 07:36 AM   #1
goldhunter_2
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Default tailing arm removale question

YES I am back with another question (shouldn't be a surprise be now...lol)

ok everything is off the frame except the trailing arms (complete with shafts and bars) so far I have removed the carter-keys and nuts for the trailing arm bolts and I can turn the bolt with a wrench but I can't drive it out with a BFH. now I thought that inside there was just some spacers but I am wondering now if there is some other type of nut or carter key inside the frame that is holding that trailing arm pin form coming out???

someone please tell me what I am missing?
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Old 07-17-2012, 09:20 AM   #2
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the out side shims on both sides came out but the insides will not the bolt does spin (tightly but spins with wrench) but does not come out even with BFH . don't want to use a torch inside there cause those rubber bushing will burn and melt all over the bolt making it even hard to remove.

any ideas fish?
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Old 07-17-2012, 10:04 AM   #3
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first, tell me you kept track of the shim positions when you took them out?they must go back in the same or alignment will be off.. now the bolts, if you have the shim pin and shims out, they should drive out, but sometimes everything is just rusted together.. try to get some pentrating oil in the bushings..you need to replace all bushings anyway,, try heat.. if all else fails cut them , get new bolts ..
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Old 07-17-2012, 10:10 AM   #4
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What is a "Carter Key"?
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Old 07-17-2012, 11:23 AM   #5
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Fish ,
yes I am trying to keep track of every thing by warping in tape and writing where its form inside/outside etc so I remember where it goes , well one can hope I remember anyway..lol

yes replacing the bushing was the plan anyway and I just tried a torch those bushing burn good but bolt still doesn't come out nor does that set of shims I am soaking them again in PB blaster. Now if I want to cut them the torch will just cut the head and since the bolt doesn't move side to side at all that will not help , I thread someone say use a reciprocating saw but doesn't look like enough room behind the bolt the blade will be beating the frame , is there a better way to cut it inside the frame?
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Old 07-17-2012, 11:28 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotrod View Post
What is a "Carter Key"?

well I have called them that for to many years to learn a new name for them now but there may be another "proper" name that is just the only thing I know to call them.


there is one small carter-key in the castle nut for the bolt that holds the trailing arm in place and there is one large carter-key down towards where the trailing arm comes out of the frame on the bottom it runs through the shims and has to be removed before they can come out
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Old 07-17-2012, 11:32 AM   #7
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they are cotter pins... don t feel bad, lots of people call them carter pins, keys , etc.... as to bolts,use a reciprocating saw and metal cutting blade on each side of the bushing.. will take time and its a pain in the azz, but thats life.. and you aren t the first to have to do this.. I d bet that 1/2 or more won t come out ..its the age
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Old 07-17-2012, 11:46 AM   #8
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ok will try saw later and just so I know when replacing are those grade 8 or grade 5 bolts?
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Old 07-18-2012, 06:20 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goldhunter_2 View Post
well I have called them that for to many years to learn a new name for them now but there may be another "proper" name that is just the only thing I know to call them.


there is one small carter-key in the castle nut for the bolt that holds the trailing arm in place and there is one large carter-key down towards where the trailing arm comes out of the frame on the bottom it runs through the shims and has to be removed before they can come out

I see, thought thats what you meant. Just wanted to make sure that there wasn't a fastener out there I didn't know about.
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Old 07-18-2012, 06:21 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goldhunter_2 View Post
ok will try saw later and just so I know when replacing are those grade 8 or grade 5 bolts?
You should be able to tell the grade by looking at the head of the bolt.
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