|HomeForumsSmokinTravelSearchCalendarHelpdesk Classic Car Insurance Corvette Insurance - Auto Escrow|
||Thread Tools||Search this Thread||Display Modes|
|05-06-2010, 10:41 AM||#1|
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Seattle WA
Corvette Fuel Tank removal
Hi, Am brand new hear would like to know how difficult it is t remove and install a 1962 fuel tank? Any tips would be appreciated Thanks Gary
|05-06-2010, 11:44 AM||#2|
Smokin 50HP Club
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: NC, USA
I'm not for sure about the 'exact' proceedure for your 1962, but on my 1975, it goes as follows and is not too hard of a job.
Hopefully this is close to what you are looking at and not way the **** out in left field chasing a tornado.
*you will want to have another set of hands for parts of the process, but it can be achieved solo with proper positioning of your tongue in your mouth and uncomfortable contortion of your body's appendages*
1. Disconnect battery
2. Remove gas cap and siphon gas from tank (tank is pretty light when empty)
3. Remove gas fill cover
4. Remove gas fill overspill 'cup' from around tank filler neck (be careful not to make any debris in the cup fall into tank while removing)
5. Replace gas cap to help keep debris out.
6. Disconnect electrical wires from top of tank
7. Remove spare tire carrier assembly
8. There are 4x bolts on the forward crossmember holding the tank in place, 2x on each side. *I did not touch the rear crossmember tank support*
These are true nut and bolt type fasteners.
There is a hole on the outside of the frame to stick a closed end wrench into the frame and hold the bolts from the top.
It may be very tough to get to the tops of these bolts in the frame while under the car removing the nuts, you may need 2x people for this part.
9. Once the bolts are removed, the crossmember should slip towards the front of the car and allow it's removal from the straps going over the top of the tank.
Once the cross-member is out of the way, either by moving it far enough or total removal, the tank should drop until it hits your exhaust system.
*you should have enough fuel line slop to allow this 4" - 6" drop, another set of eyes up top watching them while you are lowering the tank would be worth any money for peace of mind, lol
I had enough slop on fuel lines, but not on electrical personally, hence step 6 above*
*This gives about 4" - 6" to work on the tank to replace fuel lines and/or clean the electrical contacts from the top.
NOTICE the crossmember orientation and bolt holes, ie, take a picture before you remove the forward crossmember.
On mine, one side was simple holes, and the other side was slotted holes to allow some slip when attaching.
...If you need to totally remove the tank from the car, you will probably need to remove the rear portions of your exhaust system.
Therefore, the removal of the exhaust should be before you totally remove all bolts from the crossmember.
To re-install the tank, it's pretty much a reverse of the disassembly, but I will add a few notes from my experience.
Make sure to replace the gas tank vibration strips on the crossmembers, both front and rear if/when they disentigrate when removed.
They are cheap so it might be a good idea to plan on replacing them anyway if they are original. The ones on my car fell apart when I removed the tank, soooo
After I purchased mine, I read about peple using home-grown replacements like the roofing paper that goes under the shingles on a roof, whatever it's called, with great success... ymmv
You can attempt to bench-press the tank manually with muscle, or stick a jack under there with you and let the jack do the muscle.
I had person 2 hold the top of the tank and guide it into position while I pushed it in from the bottom, I imagine you could do it by yourself, but I don't know how it would go as I had help 'spotting' up top.
At any rate...
Push the tank back into it's hole and then attach one crossmember bolt on one side loosely (the side with simple holes).
Then pry the crossmember back into place under the tank and supporting it and get another bolt started on the other side (with the slot holes for slip).
Once you have both sides loose but started with one bolt, install the remaining two bolts loose, make sure the vibration strips are in place correct and then tighten all 4x crossmember bolts.
Have fun, and welcome!
|05-06-2010, 07:20 PM||#3|
Smokin 1000HP Twin Turbo Club
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Inland Empire, Southern CA
It is not too difficult. It has been a while since the gas tank was out of mine. There is no exhaust to worry about as the tank is all behind the seats under the convertible top. My memory may be a little fuzzy as it it has been about 15 years since the gas tank was removed. There is a cover for the tank and that comes off with a few screws being removed. Then take your time unscrewing/removing other items that are attached.
Last edited by Jorge62; 05-06-2010 at 07:20 PM. Reason: misspelled word
|05-07-2010, 10:31 AM||#4|
Smokin 200HP Club
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Romeo, Michigan
The procedure is covered in detail, with photos, on pages 8-1 through 8-4 in the ST-12 Shop Manual ("1953-1962 Corvette Servicing Guide"), the only Shop Manual GM ever published for the C1 Corvettes. If you don't have one, all the usual vendors have it, as does the NCRS on-line store at www.ncrs.org.
|05-12-2010, 03:40 AM||#5|
Join Date: May 2010
Location: New Jersey
Very easy to remove tank on a 62. Remove screws that hold fiberglass cover in place, remove cover which exposes tank. Next remove two metal hold down straps, filler hose, vent hose, wires from sending unit and outlet hose on bottom passenger side (drain fuel first). Should take 1/2 hour or so. Have fun. Rich
|Share This Thread|
|Thread Tools||Search this Thread|
All times are GMT -8. The time now is 04:15 AM. Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.