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Doing Your Own Repairs

6K views 54 replies 15 participants last post by  toobroketoretire 
#1 ·
Fishslayer and I are able to do all of our own repairs as we have fully equipped shops and many years of experience. But how many others of you can do all of your own repairs?

With the staggering fees most shops charge for labor it would be in your best interest to do as much of your simple repairs yourself like changing your own oil and changing your own brake pads. With about $500 to $750 worth of tools you can accomplish most anything short of pulling and rebuilding engines and transmissions.

For starters everyone needs an air compressor, an impact wrench, a complete set of sockets and end wrenches up to at least 15/16", a floor jack, and safety stands. And a corded 1/2" drill and a set of bits up to 1/2".

With these fairly inexpensive tools you can make most repairs at only a fraction of the cost of having a shop do it. Plus you will get the satisfaction of doing them yourself.
 
#3 ·
But how many others of you can do all of your own repairs?


With these fairly inexpensive tools you can make most repairs at only a fraction of the cost of having a shop do it. Plus you will get the satisfaction of doing them yourself.
True!!!!
I got the corvette Tax a few times and then started to do it myself
And after, I would get a quote for the vette and would tell them "its an old chevy" to notice the price drop
 
#4 ·
I do all my own work too. And I'll help anyone any way I can. After all the time I played in the dealer service dept., and seeing some of the guys in there now, taking my 01 pickup in there makes me pucker. IT's got to be one of those "I'm out of town and the wife needs it right now" things before I let it go to the dealer. And taking the Vette in there would scare me to death.
 
#7 ·
Good Mechanics




I have found about 95% of the mechanics I've ever known of weren't worth their weight in salt.

When I was running a shop with 19 mechanics I found only 2 had any real ability and then not nearly as much as I had.

I would estimate only 1 in every 100 is pretty sharp and only 1 in 1000 is a true professional.
 
#8 ·
I do all of mine
 
#9 ·
I do about 95% of mine. I lack some of the speciality tools (esp dial guages and attachments) and the extent of knowledge that some of you guys have. Sometimes I can' t even understand what the book says to do! That said, there is certainly an additinonal pride of ownership that comes with being able to say "Yeah, I did that myself".
 
#11 ·
and time
 
#12 ·
It's refreshing to hear a topic like this being posted on here. I love working on my 2000 C5 Coupe whenever it needs it. Getting ready to install a stage 2 clutch from Monster Clutches pretty soon. My stock clutch has over 78,000 on it with mods and is getting near its end. Fortunately, I am one of the 1% mechanics that is worth his salt. I have the tools, I have the knowledge, I have a lift and I have fully researched every aspect of doing the job. Now, I just can't wait to dig into the challenge! Should happen within the next few weeks.
 
#13 ·
My son and I did ours last year. We installed the LS7 clutch and aluminum fly kit on our 2001. Same rotating mass....

We started at noon on a Saturday and were finished Sunday mid afternoon. No lift. Jack stands. There is a lot of slightly conflicting instructions out there.

Tips:
Unhook the rear brake lines above the diff - where the factory intended. Removing brakelines from all the clips on the diff is a lot more work.
Install a remote bleeder. Don't think about not doing it.
Replace the pilot bearing and slave. Again, it's not an option.
Supporting the rear of the engine is important and it's important to have that support adjustable. You'll want to be able to change the angle.
Get a couple of large c-clamps to help draw things together.
Have help. Separating and rejoining the tunnel to the engine is a 2 man job..... espencially when dealing with alignment, shifter, and brake lines all at the same time.

btw, one of my concerns was "how much does the end of the tunnel weigh when the rear subframe is on a jack?" Depends on the balance. I placed the lifting point of the jack basically right between the trans and diff and the tunnel was probably 75lbs. Have something to catch the end when taking apart and putting back. Aligning while mid-bench pressing is tough no matter how studly you are.... :patriot:

If we need to do it again it'll take 4 hours.
:thumbsup3:
 
#16 ·
Sorry we intruded toobroke. Just trying to add to your original post which after all; is titled "Doing Your Own Repairs" Due to the lame nature of some of the other posts on Smokinvette I thought this would be a good one to chime in on since it seemed to address an overall topic no matter what generation you have. If there was a category titled "General Corvette Discussion" then you might have posted it on there. But there is not. So, by default you posted it in "C3 Tech & Performance" I was not aware that I was not welcome in the C3 area. This Smokinvette site sucks.........:thumbsdown:
 
#23 ·
As a novice to vettes and not having worked on cars for 30 years, I usded my previously plentiful time and menial computer skills to scour the web for helpfpful sites. I regularly visited at least four sites before my experiences showed me SV was the most helpful with some of the most knowledgable and not the attitudes that some folks have at other sites. Unfortunately, I guessnthere those that appreciate that attitude environment more than I do. For my part, I am grateful to all who take the time, on any site to be helpful to others.
 
#24 ·
As I used to run a shop with 19 mechanics it was to my benefit to have them as knowledgeable as possible as the more they knew the less I had to teach them.

And I have kept that mentality over the years as I'm always eager to share any knowledge I have with any others who want to learn.

And you're absolutely right about the SmokinVette C3 forums as we're a great bunch of guys who are not only smart but we get along so well. No bickering like you see in the C4 forums.
 
#26 ·
I'm certainly thankful I got bit by the mechanic bug in high school and learned a lot my first several years after school. To watch and see what some folks have to go through trying to find a shop to complete some simple to more complex repairs is interesting and sad but some of the stories I hear about afterwards is horrible.

Now to start my vintage air install, soon to be cool :thumbsup3:
 
#27 ·
Over the years I have grown to detest most mechanics because they're so Goddamned stupid. I have found only one in ten has any potential and of those only one in one hundred are really any good. And of those only one in one thousand is a true professional. So your chance of finding a really good mechanic is awfully slim.

First of all it takes a long time to become a really good mechanic so anyone younger than about 50-55 hasn't twisted wrenches nearly long enough to be considered an overall ace.
 
#31 ·
Correct on the MAX Air setting but Vintage doesn't have quite the same set up as factory Delco did. The outside air intake is eliminated so everything will be from within the cabin area. I was talking about engine cooling now that there will be a condenser in front of the aluminum radiator. Luckily no hot feet in my ride since the pipes go out the sides :thumbsup3:

I've got the hood off now and have the condenser mounted, just trying to remount my trans cooler then the drier and lines put the hood on and start to fabricate a mount for the compressor that will work with the headers.

I'm scared to death to think of what would have happened if I couldn't do this install myself with a modified car at a local shop :doh:
 
#35 ·
This thread is getting really good so I figure I'd share a real story from just a week or two ago that happened to a local buddy I met through that other website with the know it alls.

My buddy knows little to nothing about cars so for our members in the same boat this will show how important it is to learn as much about your car and find some local corvette guys to meet up with and help with projects to get some experience.

He has a '69 vert with a 350 and 4 spd. The PO did some engine work, who knows what is original, mismatched, etc. Car was using oil, compression readings were low and inconsistent. He has been to 3 different shops in south florida for different repairs from an A/C install since it was a non air car to front end work, tune up etc. All his experiences were negative to some degree.

I've looked at the car several times, changed plugs for him, timed it and had it running well but the oil burning was getting worse. He goes to a 4th shop for a rebuild and stroke his 350 to a 383. While he's at it he buys a tremec 5 spd and dewitts radiator that they offered to install. Sounds good but didn't turn out so good at all.

The cliff notes. Told 4-6 weeks (seems long to me, but oh well) ended up being there 11 weeks. The shop said the Dart heads they use were on back order so instead of waiting for the correct 180's they bolt on 200's with a small retro roller cam (1600-5400 rpm range).

Now, my buddy wanted to retain as much of the stock appearance under the hood as he could which the shop understood and said they would reuse his cast iron intake, quadrajet and ram horn manifolds and sidepipes. They told him they should be making 400-450 hp when their done and the car will run great, "don't worry about anything, you'll love the car when you get it back"

They put it on the dyno and it makes 230 rhwp and they say it's the intake, carb and exhaust so come get the car, pay us all the money though we didn't deliver what we said we would. A few days later he gets another shop to look and see if the set up was right, could anything be done to make it better trying to figure out what to do. They find a factory finned valve cover is cracked with a chipped fin and pull it off to find JB weld smeared all over the inside.

The intake was painted on the engine without ever being cleaned, bead blasted, nothing so the paint is flaking off already. The choke on the carb is wired open because they couldn't figure out how to get it to work and who knows what else could be wrong.

So, working on our own cars truly makes a huge difference in knowing what is going on and how it was done.

P.S. before he took it in for the rebuild and told me he was reusing stock parts I told him it would run like dog crap, but he wanted to find out the hard way. Guess who will be putting headers, an performer rpm manifold and 750 dbl pumper on
 
#37 ·
this is what happens when inexperienced owners don t visit SV C3 FIRST!!!!! get info and recomendations .. when you described what they were doing and they said 450HP, I chuckled!! ...... I hope, with your help, he can get it where he wants it, the intake, carb and headers will show improvement, depending on what cam specs he has, but 200 heads are overkill and are robbing lowend power
 
#36 ·
Oh, I forgot the best part. Now I first started tinkering with cars close to 30 years ago, did it for a living then got out of it. I've seen a fair amount of strange things and I'm open minded to new methods but this I have never seen.

The shop painted a black line on the outer edge of the timing mark on the harmonic balancer, no problem, the timing tab though, they cut, ground did something to bring it to a triangular point, hmmm. I use a pointer as a marker but I have a balancer with etched timing numbers 0-60 degrees.

No such thing here. No timing tape, numbers anywhere just a black line and a metal point. I put a timing light on it just to see where it was and it's up near 12 o'clock, not quite straight up but close so I'm guessing it's in the 18-20 degree area maybe 22.

Anybody else ever seen this set up or time an engine without any number markings? New to me but if it's real please share since I'd love to know how this works.
 
#38 · (Edited)
probably using a dial back timing light..you set the light to zero,you point at the tab 0 or the point they filed it to ..the light will be somewhere above , turn dial it till it gets the light on that point, then look at the dial on gun for your timing number... did that make sense? I m told that they can be off as much as 4 degrees with MSD Boxes, ...I prefer the old fashion way myself,my timing light is 40 years old!!! and if he s got 20-22 degrees advance at idle, back it down to 10-12 degrees before detonation becomes a problem
 
#40 ·
i also do all my own work
 
#41 ·
I've always done all the work on my cars, started when I was 15. Back then I never really had any cash so learning how to do repairs myself was a no-brainer. I still say the biggest p.i.t.a. Project I've ever done on a car was my 81 rear-end. Rebuild, That project took allot of research, liquor, band-aids, and time. I agree with you toobroke, every repair can be done yourself, it just takes patience and confidence. Another thing to point out is thats its just as important to buy quality tools as it is parts
 
#42 ·
Like most of you I started out with no tools other than a claw hammer and a pair of pliers. Over the years I have built up my tool assortment to include most everything that could ever be needed. I have found an air compressor is one of the most valuable tools a person could ever have. I made my first air compressor using a two-cylinder York A/C compressor and a 5-gallon truck air tank along with a 1/4 hp electric motor. My God was it ever slow but it got the job done. The only problem with using an A/C compressor is they don't have any oil rings so they pump a lot of oil into the tank.
 
#43 ·
there no substitute for good tools and equipment to do a repair ..like Toobroke, I have just about anything I could ever need in my shop at home, but the One thing I would never give up is my 2- post lift! the difference between standing up to do a job and crawling under the car on your back, is unbelievable.. its the best money I ever spent on tools or equipment.. they are GREAT!
 
#45 ·
Have all my own tools and can do (or attempt to do LOL) anything between the front and rear bumpers. But I still have a Tech I trust to do jobs I don’t want to hassle with, Oil, Change fuel pump little stuff. I’m currently Sewing up seat covers (all Vinyl but pattern from leather) had to buy foam (haven’t figured out how to make and form that yet) Scrubbed down and re painted frame. So I do some and farm some out.
 
#47 ·
Although I have most of the hand tools and more knowledge than some, both of which I acquired over about 40 years of having to maintain the cars I kept for long periods, I am lacking lifts and space. Also, an hour of wrenching now leaves me with three days of pain and recovery because of the arthritis I inherited (thanks Mom). So, its just not worth it to tackle any but the simplest and quickest jobs. Fortunately, my vehicles are currently fairly trouble free.
 
#48 ·
When I was "restoring" (getting it ready for the road) my '71 I just replaced what needed to be replaced but during the past 1-1/2 years I ended up replacing every single switch and relay. So if the car has high-mileage you're often better off simply replacing everything at once rather than letting them fail piecemeal.
 
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