Chevy Corvette Forum banner

C6 Header Install

28K views 13 replies 11 participants last post by  tri08sbc 
#1 ·
The car:
My 2006 Z51 2LT Corvette, current relevant mods are a Vararam CAI and GHL exhaust (quad 4" tips).
The headers:
Kooks 1 3/4 Long Tube, JetHot Coated, 3" catted X-pipe.
The tools:
Car jack, Jackstands, Torque Wrench (used 18ft-lbs for the header bolts and 45ft-lbs for the exhaust clamps), and a craftsman 165pc tool set.

I wouldn't run uncoated headers on any car; for me the reduction in underhood temperatures (and lessened chance of melting plug wires) is the main reason; the performance gain from maintaining high exhaust gas temperatures and the improved looks and longevity are also pluses.

I did the install myself, with the help of my neighbor; this was my second time ever working on my 'Vette; I had no printed instructions or service manual, but I did look over
Vetteweb's C6 Header Install Instructions beforehand.

The install took 5 hours, which included a snack break, some beers, and taking the pictures. The kooks fit PERFECTLY and I am extremely satisfied with the fit and finish.

The process:

Jacked the car up and stand it on jackstands. I needed about 15" of ground clearance for this.


Removed the engine covers, the spark plug wires, and the oil dipstick. The dipstick pulls right out after you remove one single bolt. Also make sure you remove the battery positive; if you don't, the headers will short out your battery on contacting the starter motor. Don't ask me how I know. At this point, loosen all bolts. You may not want to remove them all just yet.

In retroscpect, it would have been easier to remove all the above BEFORE jacking the car up.

Do not bother attempting to remove the exhaust manifold into catalytic converter nuts. They will ALL shear:

Nice view of what the stock manifold collector looks like though. Compare it with what Kooks uses:

Now that, ladies and gentlemen, is what a 4-into-1 merge collector should look like :D

The proper method of removing the stock manifolds is to leave them connected to the cats and remove them at the H pipe connection. I did not have to remove the alternator, starter, or anything else in order to accomplish that.

Having removed the stock headers and cats, I moved the O2 sensors over. They were easy to remove. Don't forget the antiseize.

 
See less See more
5
#2 ·
Continuation

Now it was time to get the new headers in. I installed them from below, but could not have done it without help. I held them up while my neighbor (thanks Les!) put the bolts on. Don't forget the gaskets; I re-used the stock ones as they are 3 layer steel and better than the ones that come with Kooks. Just make sure to clean them up nicely beforehand. I kept all bolts lose for now:


I then installed the catted X pipe, one section at a time; I was able to push the axleback exhaust out of the way to get the rear section of the X pipe in; wasn't easy, but just be patient...





Finally, I used aluminum tape to hold the O2 wires out of the way. Aluminum tape reflects heat, but it does not appear to be a very durable option. Still looking for a better way to do this.
 
#10 ·
Hi I`am new to this forum. Just purchased a 08 with a Z51 sus. Would like to know where you got your jackstands. Any advise about raising car would be helpful. Thanks
I got them at Pepboys; "Big Red". Also got an aluminum lightweight jack there. The jack fits under the front of a stock non lowered Corvette and can be used to raise it by the engine cradle; put it right in the center and make sure the car is in gear (or Park if its auto) with the handbrake on. The rear can be raised by the transmission/differential cradle.
 
#13 ·
sidenote - I like those jackstands
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top