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Brake Bleeding Sequence

15K views 14 replies 10 participants last post by  fishslayer143@yahoo.com 
#1 ·
I have just replaced both drivers side calipers,even though I have bled brakes a million times I still tend to check the book.Well I was reading the GM Repair Manual, GM says to start at the closest bleeder then go to the farthest. if doing all 4 then start at front If only doing one circuit then start at closest to master cylinder for that circuit.( this is repeated in another paragragh)This struck me as odd cause I always bled from the farthest to the closest starting in right rear. Well I checked the Haynes Manual and Haynes does say to start from farthest.I couldn't find any addendum to the manual.Is this the way it was done and then they changed it.
adam
 
#2 ·
When I did mine I used the farthest away method. Worked great for me. :cheers::cheers::food-smiley-021::food-smiley-021::thumbsup3::thumbsup3:
 
#8 · (Edited)
(IMO )You should do farthest to nearest. This way your pushing all the air that is already trapped out at the farthest point which takes the longestbecause there is so much lines but it can't go any farther than that (if you start up front it can go to either RF,LR,or RR). If you did it the other way once you bleed the LF air and fluid can't travel through the lines as well to clean out ( either old fluid or air) in the lines You don't get as good of a flushing effect I guess is what I'm trying to say. It can still be done but might take a little longer.

Anyways makes since to me
 
#10 ·
I just replaced my entire system, MC, front lines, rear lines, all 4 calipers etc etc. I did farthest also. Use a motive bleeder. Advice I can offer is, tap the calipers with a rubber mallet to loosen air bubbles and make sure you dont forget the rears have two bleeder valves.
 
#12 ·
If all of this started after you replaced the proportioning valve, check it and it's seals first.
It sounds like a possible culprit.

In case this isn't it, a few questions to clarify...

By "won't bleed", do you mean:
won't push any fluid thru the lines to the calipers?
-or-
won't get all the air out of the fluid at the calipers?


By "stick", do you mean:
after hitting the brakes, the calipers clamp down and then don't release?
-or-
when you hit the brakes, nothing happens and they are stuck open?
 
#13 ·
Something new about brake. I'm so used to my brakes in my truck and was thinking my vet should be the same but there not.the brakes don't feel right.they feel like they have air. so when I took it down for alignment had them check it. brakes were fine,problem is my cam.there is not enough vacum produced .this is caused by valve overlap( very large cam) so now I will install a vacum accumulator and see what that does.
adam
 
#14 ·
It really doesnt mater witch order you bleed the calipers, But after all work is done pressure bleed the brakes, (pump them up ,open the bleeder)This will get most of the air out, But then the most important part ,gravity bleed each one , with the master cylinder cover lose and full of fluid open one bleeder at a time and watch it, you will see bubbles come out, when they stop close the bleeder move on ( 2 bleeder front, 4 bleeder back). after all wheels are bleed pump the pedal as hard as you can then gravity bleed them again. You will be amazed at the out come. Don't tell me how you do it in-tell you try it my way ,if all your brake parts are good it will work. When it works send Goodwill a $1.00. if it does not work i will send you a $1.00.
25 YEARS OF BLEEDING CORVETTE BRAKES TALKING.
David Steele
 
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