This is something I played with years ago before it became a big deal as of late. What we had to deal with were crude systems without all the luxuries that todays setups have. I contacted a company that distributes these systems about doing some real world testing utilizing their system. They were very supportive of the idea and offered me any help I needed in the setup of my water injection. For the record, they are all doing the same thing. Some are better than others but overall, your getting the same job done. After careful consideration, I decided to use an aftermarket engine management system. This is simply to allow me to reflash every parameter of my cars engine management. Your tuner can do this same thing on a dyno. There are a few reasons for this. My stock computer has a 16 degree limitation of how much timing can be added total to my car and I have no way to measure intake air temperatures. The purpose of this is to determine the actual effects of water injection on a blown car. I am not a professional tuner so it will take me some time to dial the car in with this new toy. Or blow it up. But lets hope for the best. After that is done I will take the car to a dyno(most likely AD since the man is knowledgeable)and make a few pulls to check the cars overall performance. Once this is done and I feel comfortable that the car is tuned optimum for real world conditions then I will install the water/methanol system and begin the tuning process once again. This is where a fully adjustable piggyback system will help me greatly. Nothing will change on the car as far as parts go. What I will be changing are simply computer parameters to optimize the systems capabilites. Then another trip will be made to the same dyno to see what the results are. Once again, I am not a professional efi tuner. I will be datalogging my findings throughout this process and verifying them with some people who have been doing this much longer than I have. What I am hoping to show you is what exactly water injection can do for your real world car under real world conditions. And I enjoy doing new things that I havent done. In this case, getting the chance to have full control over my cars engine management in an EFI application. Im not getting paid for this. Everything, including the labtop needed for my engine management, the piggyback computer, and all parts including the car are out of my pocket. That being the case, this car will be tuned according to what is safe to beat on and still make it home at the end of the day. This will be, for better or worse, a completely unbiased report that will hopefully aid others in their decisions.
The car itself is a stock MPFI 302cid. 1989 Mustang. Outside of an aftermarket intake manifold and a free flowing exhaust, the car has a completely stock longblock assembly. I have a supercharger being spun to 10psi currently and no intercooling on the vehicle. To date, I have tuned it simply with fuel pressure and timing adjustments externally. It has put up with more abuse in the last 3000 miles tuned this way than most cars will see in their entire lives. Next week, I will be out of state on business and I am still waiting on my parts to get here. So until that time, I will simply be checking the car over and making sure that everything is in proper operating condition. Wont have much to report. Thanks for reading.
And incase noone has noticed, Im not much of an editor either.

Paragraphs are your friend...:rofl:

BTW, Water/methanol systems have been tested 10 ways from sunday. What exactly are you looking to gain (Knowledge wise) from the test??
This is something I played with years ago before it became a big deal as of late. What we had to deal with were crude systems without all the luxuries that todays setups have. I contacted a company that distributes these systems about doing some real world testing utilizing their system. They were very supportive of the idea and offered me any help I needed in the setup of my water injection. For the record, they are all doing the same thing. Some are better than others but overall, your getting the same job done. After careful consideration, I decided to use an aftermarket engine management system. This is simply to allow me to reflash every parameter of my cars engine management. Your tuner can do this same thing on a dyno. There are a few reasons for this. My stock computer has a 16 degree limitation of how much timing can be added total to my car and I have no way to measure intake air temperatures. The purpose of this is to determine the actual effects of water injection on a blown car. I am not a professional tuner so it will take me some time to dial the car in with this new toy. Or blow it up. But lets hope for the best. After that is done I will take the car to a dyno(most likely AD since the man is knowledgeable)and make a few pulls to check the cars overall performance. Once this is done and I feel comfortable that the car is tuned optimum for real world conditions then I will install the water/methanol system and begin the tuning process once again. This is where a fully adjustable piggyback system will help me greatly. Nothing will change on the car as far as parts go. What I will be changing are simply computer parameters to optimize the systems capabilites. Then another trip will be made to the same dyno to see what the results are. Once again, I am not a professional efi tuner. I will be datalogging my findings throughout this process and verifying them with some people who have been doing this much longer than I have. What I am hoping to show you is what exactly water injection can do for your real world car under real world conditions. And I enjoy doing new things that I havent done. In this case, getting the chance to have full control over my cars engine management in an EFI application. Im not getting paid for this. Everything, including the labtop needed for my engine management, the piggyback computer, and all parts including the car are out of my pocket. That being the case, this car will be tuned according to what is safe to beat on and still make it home at the end of the day. This will be, for better or worse, a completely unbiased report that will hopefully aid others in their decisions.
The car itself is a stock MPFI 302cid. 1989 Mustang. Outside of an aftermarket intake manifold and a free flowing exhaust, the car has a completely stock longblock assembly. I have a supercharger being spun to 10psi currently and no intercooling on the vehicle. To date, I have tuned it simply with fuel pressure and timing adjustments externally. It has put up with more abuse in the last 3000 miles tuned this way than most cars will see in their entire lives. Next week, I will be out of state on business and I am still waiting on my parts to get here. So until that time, I will simply be checking the car over and making sure that everything is in proper operating condition. Wont have much to report. Thanks for reading.
And incase noone has noticed, Im not much of an editor either.

Besides making it perfectly clear that I am not an editor, I am doing a real world unbiased test. Something I have personally never seen done over the course of several years. Ive seen obnoxious amounts of base timing put into cars to compensate for the computers lack of ability that you cant even start a car on. Ive seen 94 octance cars tuned to the very brink of destruction. I havent seen anything that shows a legitimate car ran just the way it was shown after the testing was said and done.

No need to get your undies wadded up on the editing. It was a JOKE..:thumbsup: :patriot:

There are only 4 reasons you would need or want water/methanol.

1) IAT heat control on boosted application which increases air density, and allows less boost to obtain the same power.

2) Supplement fuel system inadequacies

3) Increase the octane ratine of your base fuel.

4) By adding #1, and #3 together, it allows you to run additional timing without the fear of pre-ignition. (Meaning finding your NEW MBT levels)

By finding and increaseing the MBT (Maximim Brake Torque) of your engine, you can/will dramatically increase you hp and torque. As well as optimize your overall driveability.

Unless you are unsing methanol for these reason stated above, you will find ZERO benifit.

There is ZERO need to run water/methanol just for the hell of it. It has a purpose, and that purpose is for pushing your vehicle past the fuels natural limits, decrease boosted IAT's, etc etc...
In your case, you are running a NON I/C car. Your IAT's are through the roof. When you apply the water/methanol, your IAT's will dramaticaly come down, which in turn will cause your boost to slightly increase. Therefore, make more power. (most likely alot) If this is the reason you will be testing it, then its a no brainer. Your car will dramatically increase its performance level.

Where people screw up, is when they think the methanol is some sort of miracle fuel that allows them to go bazerk and, as you put it, tune their car to the brink of desruction.

Provided you use the water/methanol as a "Safety Net" you will not only gain performance, but you wont risk destroying your motor. DO NOT tune your car to be methanol dependant. Cause when you do, you are married to the systems abilities to work at ALL times.

That being said, it has been covered many many many times. Water/Methanol testing has been in use since the 30's. The tests you are performing, myself and most other tuners have already done. As well as AD (If your referring to Advanced Dyno). But I could be wrong on the shp name.

Good luck on your endevor, and if you need assistance, dont hesitate to ask. Greater than 90% of my boosted vehicles run dedacated water/methanol systems.


Jeff
Besides making it perfectly clear that I am not an editor, I am doing a real world unbiased test. Something I have personally never seen done over the course of several years. Ive seen obnoxious amounts of base timing put into cars to compensate for the computers lack of ability that you cant even start a car on. Ive seen 94 octance cars tuned to the very brink of destruction. I havent seen anything that shows a legitimate car ran just the way it was shown after the testing was said and done.

:thumbsup: Good reading! :patriot:

Jeff,
I used a crude system several years ago before this was a mainstream thing. I understand the benefits to a point. AKA I knew it was working. Half the reason I am doing this is because I get a chance to tune my efi system. I always like trying things Ive never done. I am personally wanting to see exactly how effective it is for myself. The reason for the writeup though is simply so that others may see what it is actually doing. Anyone can tell them it helps their FI car. But some want to know realistically how much and why. This is as realistic as I can possibly make it. I will be abusing the **** out of this car. I have a personal hp goal for it thats not too easily attained by many true stock longblock 5.0's. If I get near that and it still runs two weeks later in California heat, then I have accomplished that goal. Im sure I will be taking you up on your offer for advice. Tuning through an EEC is something I am learning anew.
Fred

No need to get your undies wadded up on the editing. It was a JOKE..:thumbsup: :patriot:

There are only 4 reasons you would need or want water/methanol.

1) IAT heat control on boosted application which increases air density, and allows less boost to obtain the same power.

2) Supplement fuel system inadequacies

3) Increase the octane ratine of your base fuel.

4) By adding #1, and #3 together, it allows you to run additional timing without the fear of pre-ignition. (Meaning finding your NEW MBT levels)

By finding and increaseing the MBT (Maximim Brake Torque) of your engine, you can/will dramatically increase you hp and torque. As well as optimize your overall driveability.

Unless you are unsing methanol for these reason stated above, you will find ZERO benifit.

There is ZERO need to run water/methanol just for the hell of it. It has a purpose, and that purpose is for pushing your vehicle past the fuels natural limits, decrease boosted IAT's, etc etc...
In your case, you are running a NON I/C car. Your IAT's are through the roof. When you apply the water/methanol, your IAT's will dramaticaly come down, which in turn will cause your boost to slightly increase. Therefore, make more power. (most likely alot) If this is the reason you will be testing it, then its a no brainer. Your car will dramatically increase its performance level.

Where people screw up, is when they think the methanol is some sort of miracle fuel that allows them to go bazerk and, as you put it, tune their car to the brink of desruction.

Provided you use the water/methanol as a "Safety Net" you will not only gain performance, but you wont risk destroying your motor. DO NOT tune your car to be methanol dependant. Cause when you do, you are married to the systems abilities to work at ALL times.

That being said, it has been covered many many many times. Water/Methanol testing has been in use since the 30's. The tests you are performing, myself and most other tuners have already done. As well as AD (If your referring to Advanced Dyno). But I could be wrong on the shp name.

Good luck on your endevor, and if you need assistance, dont hesitate to ask. Greater than 90% of my boosted vehicles run dedacated water/methanol systems.


Jeff


Man you went to town on that write up! :thumbsup: Good stuff thanks for posting.

Have questions about water methanol injection? Feel free to PM us directly and we would be more then happy to answer any questions you may have.

Rodney