Radioflyer97's How-To Post #16: How to build Completely Custom projector headlights. (biggest How-To yet)

Many of us have experienced the annoyance of night driving with poor headlights. Aftermarket solutions are available but are expensive costing between $700-1800. After weeks of research, I found that there are in fact other options.

Here’s my alternative: Hella makes a line of 90mm universal headlight modules.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c200/radioflyer1986/90mm20Front.jpg

the best price I could find for them was $58.75 per module here:
http://www.rallylights.com/hella/90mm_modules.asp

To do the retrofit, you’ll also need the H9 bulb terminals which are rather rare.
This brings the total material costs to $261 + shipping.

If you want HIDs, I suggest the D2S bulbs. They’re perfect for retrofitting in this application. To see how to retrofit the projectors from halogen to HID look here:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=1865872

To add HIDs, figure an additional $100 for an ebay HID D2S bulb style kit. If you already have HIDs, you can purchase D2S conversion terminals and high quality OEM D2S bulbs. This is what I did. Cost about $80.

Other parts you will need:
- 14 gauge wire for the H9 terminals
- Aluminum or galvanized sheet metal
- Cardboard
- Fiberglas resin
- Old cotton shirt
- Speed nuts and mounting bolts with matching aluminum spacers
- 90mm Halos (if you want)

Tools you will need:
- Screwdrivers of all types including torx bits
- A Dremel rotary tool (it’s your best friend here)
- Spare reinforced Cut-off wheels. The regular ones last about 30 seconds on steel
- Socket set with metric sockets
- Vice grips or a 8mm open/closed end wrench
- Drill with various metal bits.

Suggested but not essential tools
- Anvil and hammer are nice
- Band/table saw or another tool to quickly cut sheet metal in a straight line.
- appropriate welding equipment for the sheet metal you decided to use.

Stage I: building the New Headlight Frame

First remove your OEM headlight reflector housings. They can be re used later if you decide for some weird reason to swap back or if you want to just sell them. Use cardboard to make a template like the one shown below. This is mostly to get the mounting points aligned. The board in the pic consists of two 5x5” sections with a 1 ½” section at the bend. Make sure the template will fit with the cover on.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c200/radioflyer1986/CIMG1582.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c200/radioflyer1986/CIMG1584.jpg

Next measure and cut the sheet metal to mimic the cardboard template you made. Drill the mounting holes for the headlight modules and the large holes for the lights themselves. (a 3” diameter hole will work) Drill holes for the mounting bolts and speed nuts. Mount the modules and test fit the entire plate:

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c200/radioflyer1986/CIMG1587.jpg

Next, aim the headlights. You can use the OEM adjusters for coarse adjustment and the Mounts for the modules for fine/independent adjustment. At this stage the modules can be adjusted from the front but later the can only be adjusted from behind. Even if your headlight adjuster assembly is completely destroyed, the module adjusters can usually compensate. You can also compensate by changing the size of the mounting bolt spacers.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c200/radioflyer1986/CIMG1601.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c200/radioflyer1986/CIMG1603.jpg

The lights can be used in this condition as long as they’re hooked up correctly (which if you were able to aim them should be the case)

Stage II: Building the Fiberglass Housing

Build a sheet metal frame for the fiberglass support structure like the one shown. You’ll need to do a lot of measuring with the headlight cover and bucket trim on to get measurements.

When finished is should look like this: (the center divider is not essential)
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c200/radioflyer1986/CIMG1610.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c200/radioflyer1986/CIMG1611.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c200/radioflyer1986/CIMG1612.jpg

If you have a large enough piece of sheet metal and the tools to work with it, you can actually build the mounting frame and fiberglass substructure all from one piece making the entire project much easier (no welding required)

Stage III: Prepping for Fiberglass/Laying fiberglass
If you’ve decided to use the 90mm acrylic-encased Halos from retro-solution.com you’ll need to sand down the inside about 1-1.5mm to where they fit snugly on the modules. Then find a PVC pipe that will fit around the halo and inside the sub frame structure as shown below:

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c200/radioflyer1986/CIMG1627.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c200/radioflyer1986/CIMG1628.jpg

If you’re not using a Halo, the procedure is the same but your clearance between the PVC to the module can be tighter. I cut out a lexan ring to ensure the PVC was spaced correctly on all sides. The inner diameter of the lexan should be enough to it over the module and the outer diameter should be just enough barely fit inside the PVC. Drill a small hole on opposite sides of the lexan ring (you’ll see why later)

Here’s the trick to getting the molding just right. Most every PVC pipe has a coupler that’s just bigger than the rest of the pipe. This allows the pipes to be connected by sliding into each other. In my case, the pipe itself was expanded on one side just enough to fit over the non-expended side. Make sure both the Low and High beam will protrude the same distance from the end of the PVC pipe. A section of expanded pipe is what you see around the modules. The non-expanded section will be used later. You may need to cut off the flathead tips of the adjuster screws on the modules.

Tape off ALL the clear part of the module lens with painters tape. Next stretch the cotton over the entire front and sides of the lens and tape it into place. Ideally, you would want to sew the edges together around the sides for a perfect form fit, but that area will not be visible when mounted. Take a small section of the non-expanded PVC pipe and gently sand down the outer rim. Place a single layer of painter’s tape around the outside. Then press it inside the PVC that’s under the cotton. This will require some light hammering.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c200/radioflyer1986/CIMG1631.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c200/radioflyer1986/CIMG1629.jpg

You’re now ready to lay the fiberglass resin. I put down 2 coats, then sanded to find the weak spots. All in all, I ended up laying about 5-6 layers of resin. I used a cheap 1” paintbrush to apply the resin. You’ll need one brush per application as each brush becomes worthless after use. Make sure to a thick layer and use in a well ventilated area. Fiberglass is toxic. Also, using gloves is highly recommended and baby powder on your arms and hands while sanding will help prevent the fiberglass from sticking to you.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c200/radioflyer1986/CIMG1632.jpg

All sanded down to 320 grit: A good portion of the fiberglass will need to be sanded by hand.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c200/radioflyer1986/CIMG1637.jpg

Test fit: with the cover and bucket on.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c200/radioflyer1986/CIMG1641.jpg


Stage IV: Painting and final installation

Get a paint shop to do the job unless you’re REALLY good with a paint gun and have the appropriate tools/environment.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c200/radioflyer1986/CIMG1655.jpg

If you’re using Halos, now’s the time to install them. You should be able to remove the lexan spacer with the bent end of a paperclip. Run the wire for the Halo and install the CCFL transformer either on the headlight itself or the OEM headlight frame. Just make sure there’s enough wire to allow open and closing of the headlight. The Halos can be hooked up to a switch, or Low beam or Fog lights.

Install and test: Make sure your headlights are still aimed correctly. They can still be adjusted with the OEM equipment or the modules can be adjusted slightly from behind with a Phillips head screwdriver

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c200/radioflyer1986/CIMG1678.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c200/radioflyer1986/CIMG1677.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c200/radioflyer1986/CIMG1675.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c200/radioflyer1986/CIMG1660.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c200/radioflyer1986/CIMG1658.jpg