Junkman2008: "I came, I saw, I swiped a table" :smack:

Radioflyer97's How-To Post #11: Custom Ammeter install.

I was debating which section to put this in, but decided that since this area described is only available or C5's It would be best to put it here. C5 Verts will require the removal of the waterfall to do this modification (not pictured)

For those of you running Amp-ed sound systems, having an inline ammeter, voltmeter or Fusebox that's easily visible isn't just cool, it's convienent.

This turned out to be one of the easier installations I've done taking about 2 hours including setup/cleanup. This process is specific for C5 vettes, but can be used on similar ways on many other generations.

There aren't many digital ammeters for automotive use on the market. I ended up using this one built by American Bass:

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c200/radioflyer1986/af_1.jpg

First I had to find a mounting spot. Since the meter is designed to be inline, I had to find a convienent place that was out of the way AND happened to be on the route of my main power wire. Thankfully (and by pure dumb luck) the Capacitor setup required the main power wire to me routed over the tunnel. The palstic section just behind the console storage door was the perfect place.

I decided to remove the American Bass logo and paint it black using a technique that gave it a smoked look:

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c200/radioflyer1986/CIMG1333.jpg

Tools I used:

- Electric drill and 5/8" drill bit
- Dremel tool with cutoff wheels and Sanding bits
- Painters tape (or masking tape)
- Sharpie
- Various screwdrivers and rachet set for lifting the center console.
- scissors


Step 1: I used paperboard to outline the shape of the meter case and used painters tape on the section that I planned to mount on:

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c200/radioflyer1986/CIMG1334.jpg

Step 2: I secured the stencil in the center of the mounting area.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c200/radioflyer1986/CIMG1335.jpg

Step 3: then using a sharpie i traced the stencil. This process prevents over cutting and leaving hidious gaps in the plastic.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c200/radioflyer1986/CIMG1336.jpg

Step 4: Since there were wires under this piece, I unbolted storage console and lifted it using a makeshift brace roll of duct tape (not seen in picture) Then using a dremel cutoff wheel, I cut along the streight lines and left plenty of room around the Curves:

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c200/radioflyer1986/CIMG1337.jpg

Step 5: After removing the big chunk, I used the dremel 1/4" fine grit sander to trim the curved sections and streighten out the rough cuts:

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c200/radioflyer1986/CIMG1338.jpg

Step 6: I eyeballed and drilled 2 holes on either side of the ammeter for the wires ro run through. While KOL4 wire isn't exactly the size of any drillbit i have, that's nothing the dremel sander can't solve. I also installed the bottom part of the meter through the bottom of the plastic:

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c200/radioflyer1986/CIMG1340.jpg

Step 7: The final step was to strip the wires and secure them to the Meter. This was easier said than done and in hindsight, I would have moved the holes for the wires about half an inch outward so the bend wouldn't have to be so tight. I ended up forcing the wire into submission with a pair of locking needlenose and a dowel rod (not pictured) The cover sits in such a way that it squeezes the mounting plastic securing the entire unit.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c200/radioflyer1986/CIMG1341.jpg

I would have taken a better picture but it was freaking hot outside.

Installation notes: My power wire setup is typical for people with amp racks and amps mounted behnd the driver's seat. For people with amps mounted elsewhere, there are ammeters with shunt resistors that have a remote moniter so the display can be mounted away from the power wire.