Junkman2008
07-10-2008, 04:49 PM
15. Disconnect the parking brake cable from the parking brake lever. Now here comes the fun part. First of all, if you skipped step 8, you'll never get this cable off so make sure that you performed step 8.
http://pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/pbrakerelease.jpg
You're also going to have to free the parking brake cable from the bracket that holds it in place. This is a real PITA. Do not get frustrated and break those tabs off. A new parking brake cable is not cheap! Look at the picture below:
http://pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/pbrakebracket.jpg
If you get frustrated and decide to remove the bracket bolts, here they are:
http://pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/pbrakebolts.jpg
At this point, you are ready to take a break and have the Junkman Special "Dagwood" Pizza!
http://pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/pizzatime.jpg
For those of you on a budget, please substitute a bologna sandwich and get back to work. :lol:
Shaft Removal
16. At this point, the service manual calls for part number J-42129 to separate the axle from the stabilizer, and J-29794 to separate the axle from the differential. Here's what we're going to do.
First, jack the lower control arm up so that the axle is somewhat straight (not hanging down). Loosen the spindle nut up about a half-inch. Grab the top of the stabilizer. You're going to use it like a slide hammer to "bump" the drive shaft out of the differential. Just bump it firmly toward you and the drive shaft will eventually work its way out of the differential. At the same time (if you're lucky), the bumping will loosen up the axle at the stabilizer too. If not, you may have to give it a slight whack to disengage it from the stabilizer.
Note: Do not whack the end of the shaft while it is still seated inside the differential. There's no telling what damage that could cause. Also, if you get the shaft out of the differential and have to give it a whack to dislodge it from the stabilizer, pay particular attention to the end of the shaft by the differential as to not allow it to bang up against anything - especially the differential!
Be careful not to whack the wheel studs also.
Whatever you do, do not make the mistake of removing the stabilizer with the axle attached to it like this:
http://pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/axel.jpg
If you do, you've just created a lot more work which is now why I'm so good at removing the entire shaft and control arms. In 3 days, I must have put that thing in and pulled it out of the car at least 5 times. Like Michael (Mike94ZLT1) said in one of my other post, you get real good and quick at this after you've done a few times. I couldn't believe how fast I put it back together the last time I did it.
Once you have the axle loose at both the differential and the stabilizer, you will need to bend the end of the shaft and simultaneously rotate the stabilizer out of the way in order to remove the axle. Check out the picture:
http://pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/removeaxle.jpg
http://pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/axleremoved.jpg
17. Now that you have the shaft out of the way, clean up the differential. You want to be able to see any new leaks if you don't install the seal correctly.
18. Now you're ready to remove the old seal and replace it with the new one. The old seal does not come out easily. It does however have a slight lip around the outside edge of it that you can feel and I used a seal removal tool to grab that lip and pull out the old seal. Be careful around this area. You don't want to gouge the differential and create a permanent leak.
http://pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/sealpuller.jpg
19. Seating the new seal will be the fun you get to have. Whatever you do, you don't want to start tapping the edge of the seal and working your way around. You want to use something that will allow you to seat the seal evenly as you tap it in. Again, I used the tool that I bought that the TSB called for. I heard a block of wood works well and I've heard that they make universal seal installing tools. Whatever you decide to use, make sure you keep these tips in mind or make sure you buy a bunch of seals. :willy:
20. After you get the seal installed, you want to physically and visually inspect your work. Run your fingers around the edges of the seal. You should not feel any gap between the edge of the seal and the differential. If you do, you still need to tap, tap, tap-a-roo.
http://pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/newsealinstalled.jpg
One thing that you want to inspect is the wiring harness back here. The factory electrical tape that was on mine had began to come unraveled. Thus, I re-wrapped it with one piece of tape and zipped tied the ends. I didn't have a black tie wrap but at least it doesn't show with the wheel on!
http://pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/wirewrap.jpg
21. Now you are ready to put everything back together. Just reverse these steps and you should be fine. Remember to use the torque settings that I provided here for everything but the brakes bolts (http://pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/Fastener%20Tightening%20Specifications%20-%20Rear%20Suspension.pdf) and here for the brake bolts. (http://pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/Brake%20Caliper%20Fastener%20Tightening%20Specific ations.pdf) You need to take the car for a ride in order to check for leaks and heat up the differential fluid. The fluid needs to be changed while it is hot and care needs to be taken so that you don't burn yourself.
22. Once you get back in the garage, draining the differential is no major undertaking. The drain bolt is located directly on the bottom. Remember, you want to drain the fluid while it is hot. Make sure that the car is level when you drain and fill the differential. Here's where a 4 post lift would come in handy.
http://pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/diffdrainbolt.jpg
23. After you have drained the fluid and replaced the drain plug, you'll need to fill the differential with new fluid. As you can see by the location of the fill plug, this is a tad bit difficult.
http://pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/diffrefillplug.jpg
Fill the differential up to the bottom of the fill hole. It holds about 2 quarts of fluid.
You can drop by you local auto store and buy a siphon to fill the differential. This is what I bought, although its crappy design is why I have to clean up the garage floor now:
http://pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/siphon.jpg
If you get one of these (I think it was $10), make sure that when you are using it to siphon any type of thick fluid that you hold on tightly to the output side hose! Not doing so will cause it to blow away from the siphon pump and shoot a healthy wad of whatever you are pumping all over the place. As you can see by my garage floor, it was not a pretty sight!
Once you get the differential fluid in, make sure that you do not go WOT for a minimum of 300 miles. Doing so may result in scoring of the ring and pinion gears leading to differential noise!!!
I will probably be updating this over the next few days if I see any mistakes so give me a few days before printing it.
Here she is, all assembled and cleaned up:
http://pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/rear_assembled.jpg
Alrighty then! You now have the knowledge necessary to tackle this job. I will have Rosie O'Donnell inspecting your butts for leaks at the next gathering and I hear she hates wearing gloves! :D
http://pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/aj_j46405.jpg
The Junkman :thumbsup:
http://pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/pbrakerelease.jpg
You're also going to have to free the parking brake cable from the bracket that holds it in place. This is a real PITA. Do not get frustrated and break those tabs off. A new parking brake cable is not cheap! Look at the picture below:
http://pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/pbrakebracket.jpg
If you get frustrated and decide to remove the bracket bolts, here they are:
http://pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/pbrakebolts.jpg
At this point, you are ready to take a break and have the Junkman Special "Dagwood" Pizza!
http://pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/pizzatime.jpg
For those of you on a budget, please substitute a bologna sandwich and get back to work. :lol:
Shaft Removal
16. At this point, the service manual calls for part number J-42129 to separate the axle from the stabilizer, and J-29794 to separate the axle from the differential. Here's what we're going to do.
First, jack the lower control arm up so that the axle is somewhat straight (not hanging down). Loosen the spindle nut up about a half-inch. Grab the top of the stabilizer. You're going to use it like a slide hammer to "bump" the drive shaft out of the differential. Just bump it firmly toward you and the drive shaft will eventually work its way out of the differential. At the same time (if you're lucky), the bumping will loosen up the axle at the stabilizer too. If not, you may have to give it a slight whack to disengage it from the stabilizer.
Note: Do not whack the end of the shaft while it is still seated inside the differential. There's no telling what damage that could cause. Also, if you get the shaft out of the differential and have to give it a whack to dislodge it from the stabilizer, pay particular attention to the end of the shaft by the differential as to not allow it to bang up against anything - especially the differential!
Be careful not to whack the wheel studs also.
Whatever you do, do not make the mistake of removing the stabilizer with the axle attached to it like this:
http://pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/axel.jpg
If you do, you've just created a lot more work which is now why I'm so good at removing the entire shaft and control arms. In 3 days, I must have put that thing in and pulled it out of the car at least 5 times. Like Michael (Mike94ZLT1) said in one of my other post, you get real good and quick at this after you've done a few times. I couldn't believe how fast I put it back together the last time I did it.
Once you have the axle loose at both the differential and the stabilizer, you will need to bend the end of the shaft and simultaneously rotate the stabilizer out of the way in order to remove the axle. Check out the picture:
http://pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/removeaxle.jpg
http://pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/axleremoved.jpg
17. Now that you have the shaft out of the way, clean up the differential. You want to be able to see any new leaks if you don't install the seal correctly.
18. Now you're ready to remove the old seal and replace it with the new one. The old seal does not come out easily. It does however have a slight lip around the outside edge of it that you can feel and I used a seal removal tool to grab that lip and pull out the old seal. Be careful around this area. You don't want to gouge the differential and create a permanent leak.
http://pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/sealpuller.jpg
19. Seating the new seal will be the fun you get to have. Whatever you do, you don't want to start tapping the edge of the seal and working your way around. You want to use something that will allow you to seat the seal evenly as you tap it in. Again, I used the tool that I bought that the TSB called for. I heard a block of wood works well and I've heard that they make universal seal installing tools. Whatever you decide to use, make sure you keep these tips in mind or make sure you buy a bunch of seals. :willy:
20. After you get the seal installed, you want to physically and visually inspect your work. Run your fingers around the edges of the seal. You should not feel any gap between the edge of the seal and the differential. If you do, you still need to tap, tap, tap-a-roo.
http://pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/newsealinstalled.jpg
One thing that you want to inspect is the wiring harness back here. The factory electrical tape that was on mine had began to come unraveled. Thus, I re-wrapped it with one piece of tape and zipped tied the ends. I didn't have a black tie wrap but at least it doesn't show with the wheel on!
http://pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/wirewrap.jpg
21. Now you are ready to put everything back together. Just reverse these steps and you should be fine. Remember to use the torque settings that I provided here for everything but the brakes bolts (http://pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/Fastener%20Tightening%20Specifications%20-%20Rear%20Suspension.pdf) and here for the brake bolts. (http://pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/Brake%20Caliper%20Fastener%20Tightening%20Specific ations.pdf) You need to take the car for a ride in order to check for leaks and heat up the differential fluid. The fluid needs to be changed while it is hot and care needs to be taken so that you don't burn yourself.
22. Once you get back in the garage, draining the differential is no major undertaking. The drain bolt is located directly on the bottom. Remember, you want to drain the fluid while it is hot. Make sure that the car is level when you drain and fill the differential. Here's where a 4 post lift would come in handy.
http://pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/diffdrainbolt.jpg
23. After you have drained the fluid and replaced the drain plug, you'll need to fill the differential with new fluid. As you can see by the location of the fill plug, this is a tad bit difficult.
http://pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/diffrefillplug.jpg
Fill the differential up to the bottom of the fill hole. It holds about 2 quarts of fluid.
You can drop by you local auto store and buy a siphon to fill the differential. This is what I bought, although its crappy design is why I have to clean up the garage floor now:
http://pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/siphon.jpg
If you get one of these (I think it was $10), make sure that when you are using it to siphon any type of thick fluid that you hold on tightly to the output side hose! Not doing so will cause it to blow away from the siphon pump and shoot a healthy wad of whatever you are pumping all over the place. As you can see by my garage floor, it was not a pretty sight!
Once you get the differential fluid in, make sure that you do not go WOT for a minimum of 300 miles. Doing so may result in scoring of the ring and pinion gears leading to differential noise!!!
I will probably be updating this over the next few days if I see any mistakes so give me a few days before printing it.
Here she is, all assembled and cleaned up:
http://pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/rear_assembled.jpg
Alrighty then! You now have the knowledge necessary to tackle this job. I will have Rosie O'Donnell inspecting your butts for leaks at the next gathering and I hear she hates wearing gloves! :D
http://pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/aj_j46405.jpg
The Junkman :thumbsup: