Does anyone have some good tips for running quicker times on the track? Right now my car is stock and I'm consistantly running 100 MPH at 14.3 to 14.5. I like to gain a little speed and drop a few tenths without spending thousands of $$$$$. I'm new at the drags so, any help would be appreciated. Thank you

Is it a stick or an auto? Manuals are harder to get good times with… But your numbers do seem low!!! How are your 60 times?

The absolute cheapest way to get some power is to do the “Flip Tie” mod to your air box, SS Autochrome Headers and X Pipe ($400.00 shipped!) and a mail order tune from PCMsforless.com http://www.pcmforless.com/index.php?option=com_easyfaq&task=cat&catid=19&Itemid=78 (http://www.pcmforless.com/index.php?option=com_easyfaq&task=cat&catid=19&Itemid=78)

Also, what rear end do you have? A real kick in the pants is to swap gears if yours are too tall.

OR throw a 150 dry shot in it….

BTW, I'm retired AF too!!!!!!

Buy a Z06...lol just kidding, cold air intaked, and a set of headers and exhaust but that is a little $$ I like the gears idea, but that too is a little costly, probably the 150 dry shot even though I am not a bottle person myself.

Thanks for the suggestions. I guess I need to look into a different exhaust system and intake. I'm not much of a bottle guy either, unless it's MGD.
I want to keep the car as stock as possible with minor improvements.

I forgot, my car is an AUTO and yes it's STOCK.
The picture was taken on Nellis AFB, NV. I retired from Hill AFB, Utah and still live close by.

Well the first thing you could do is run with the ASR off.The when you get lined up on the second green light before the third put your foot down on the gas about halfway by the time you and the car reacts the third green light will already be lite.When you get traction you can now floor it.This will give you a better reaction time. The other thing would be to pre-idle the engine on the starting pad at 1500 RPM with your left foot on the brake and your right foot on the gas.On the second green light let go of the brake and hit the gas about halfway on the throttle when you get traction now you can floor it.As for mods I would go with the VaraRam VR-B2 cold air intake,10mm spark plugs,four point platiums,and Borla exhaust pipes.But if you want it all you could go with Dynatech SuperMaxx Exhaust it comes with header cross over pipes but no mufflers. Dont forget some Mickey Thompson tires in the rear.Check out Summitracing.com for some great prices and hot deals.

I would say do gears but even though they themselves don't cost much it is the install that will be pricey! Well you did mention that you wanted to stay stock so I guess gears are kind of out of the question huh!?!

Leave the starting line at a Idle (to much squat if you brake jack). I run 26-27 pounds of air in the back tires (Run Flats). Put your vette in Deep (Top Bulb Out) this will slow the ET about .02 sec, but better reaction times. May average RT is .060. Take burnout in second gear and start just out of the water. Make sure your vette is in competition mode. Brake jack it to about 1200rpm's than stand on it as you release the brakes. I run the track in 3rd gear. Times in Denver 14.63sec. @ 99.5mph but in Ill. 13.21sec @ 106.5mph.

Leave the starting line at a Idle (to much squat if you brake jack). I run 26-27 pounds of air in the back tires (Run Flats). Put your vette in Deep (Top Bulb Out) this will slow the ET about .02 sec, but better reaction times. May average RT is .060. Take burnout in second gear and start just out of the water. Make sure your vette is in competition mode. Brake jack it to about 1200rpm's than stand on it as you release the brakes. I run the track in 3rd gear. Times in Denver 14.63sec. @ 99.5mph but in Ill. 13.21sec @ 106.5mph.

Not bad, what sort of mods have you done?

I have a K&N filter with a modified aircleaner lid. I opened it (cut) opening about 5" x 6". The front Lic. plate is modified screen opening about the same size. I have a high flow MAF housing and a relocater & recalibrated MAT sensor. A x pipe but all the rest of the exhaust is stock. Throttle body bypass tube and a 180 degree stat. I did have a small tune put on the vette but no improvement in E.T., it drives a little better and the fans come on at 195. 1st to 2nd shift is a little better but 2nd to 3rd is sluggush and soft. I'm from Colorado and don't know of many tuners out here.

Leave the starting line at a Idle (to much squat if you brake jack). I run 26-27 pounds of air in the back tires (Run Flats). Put your vette in Deep (Top Bulb Out) this will slow the ET about .02 sec, but better reaction times. May average RT is .060. Take burnout in second gear and start just out of the water. Make sure your vette is in competition mode. Brake jack it to about 1200rpm's than stand on it as you release the brakes. I run the track in 3rd gear. Times in Denver 14.63sec. @ 99.5mph but in Ill. 13.21sec @ 106.5mph.


That's good advice right there!

Ed

I have a K&N filter with a modified aircleaner lid. I opened it (cut) opening about 5" x 6". The front Lic. plate is modified screen opening about the same size. I have a high flow MAF housing and a relocater & recalibrated MAT sensor. A x pipe but all the rest of the exhaust is stock. Throttle body bypass tube and a 180 degree stat. I did have a small tune put on the vette but no improvement in E.T., it drives a little better and the fans come on at 195. 1st to 2nd shift is a little better but 2nd to 3rd is sluggush and soft. I'm from Colorado and don't know of many tuners out here.


So are running stock exhaust? I see you have the X pipe, Personally I would stick a Borla, Bassani, or Bullet set up, CAI, if no tuners get one of those hand held deals. You can adjust shift points with the hand held programmers?

I'm pretty sure there's a good Vette tuner in Denver area, but I don't have his name. If you check on some of the other vette boards (the digital one :cool: ) you can probably find him.