Need some help guys

2001 coupe 6 speed and I have two codes to figure out code PO327 knock sensor circuit low voltage and P1416 secondary air injection (air) system bank 2 Already replaced the rear knock sensor
who knows whats next? I have a Jet programmer and found these out.

Need some help guys

2001 coupe 6 speed and I have two codes to figure out code PO327 knock sensor circuit low voltage and P1416 secondary air injection (air) system bank 2 Already replaced the rear knock sensor
who knows whats next? I have a Jet programmer and found these out.

Not sure on that one, it would be cool to have a page with a growing list of codes, explanation and so forth! I'm sure someone here will chime in with your answer! Never used the Jet programmer? How do you like it?

Didn't I list all the codes already? BTW your car has a built in code reader!



Do the following steps to retrieve all the codes stored in your C5:

1) Turn your ignition on. The engine doesn't have to be running, but it's ok if it is...

2) Press reset to clear any warning messages
3) Press and hold the "options" button
4) Press the "fuel" button 4 times while holding the options button down. The car will enter manual diagnostics and start displaying all the codes that are set for every control module in the car.

The diagnostic codes will flash across the screen in the following categories:

PCM - Poweretrain
TCS- Traction control and ABS
RTD- Real Time dampening
BCM- Body Control Module
IPC- Instrument Panel Cluster
Radio- Duh
HVAC- Heating, ventilation and A/C
LDCM- Left Door Control module
RDCM- Right Dorr control module
SCM- Seat control module
RFA- Remote function actuation

BCM (Body Control Module)—The main computer for the car.
PCM (Powertrain Control Module)—Controls anything that makes the car move (transmission, rear end, engine).
RFA (Remote Function Actuator)—Receives input from Tire Sensors and Key Fob.
HVAC (Heating, Ventillating and Air Conditioning)—Controls all of the climate-control hardware.
TCS (Traction Control System)—Controls Anti-slip regulation system.
LDCM (Left Door Control Module)—Handles all left-door operations.
RDCM (Right Door Control Module)—Handles all right-door operations.
IPC (Instrument Panel Cluster)—Handles dash operations.
SCM (Seat Control Module)—Integrated into BCM on later models.
SDM (Sensing Diagnosing Module)—Operates Inflatable Restraint System.

"C" after the code denotes that it is within the current ignition cycle.

"H" means it has occured in previous ignition cycles, but not the current one.

Anyway your P 1416 is your Passenger check valve on the A.I.R. Injection system. It's located behind the intake and is a real PITA to R&R. I would try squirting some PB Blaster or like upstream from the check valve, then start the engine and let the AIR pump work the PBB down into the check valve. That usually frees em back up agian.

Now, I don't know how long this little trick lasts, so far it seems to last quite awhile... he valve will not hurt your engine or performance, it's just an anooying code. It I were you I'd get a valve and plan on replacing someday in the future!

Thanks for the info guys still need to know about the low voltage to the knock sensor circuit. I replaced the rear one in about 2.5 hours and maby I caused the po1416 Ill have to recheck it. My car is silver also must be popular. My son worked at Jet chips so I got a discount
I like the programmer but have nothing to compare it to. Ive done the vent screens blackwing and exhaust mods 22hp jet chip and ported my throttle bodie got rid of the maf screen and added 160 deg thermostat and throttle bodie bypass. Went with the good year
gsd3 I think thats what thier called 265-40-17 front and 285-35-18
in the rear. Im lower to the ground and also picked up some accelleration due to the smaller tires circ. Have to be carefull it bottoms out easy.

Sorry, I thought you fixed it with R&Ring the sensor. Let me rephrase that, it SHOULD have fixed it! Did you reset all your codes? Sometimes they'll hang in memory until you reset them...

Hold on... I think Knock sensor 1 is the forward sensor not the rear one... We need someone with a book, my DVD is hosed AGAIN!

When I removed the rear knock sensor it looked perfectly good the same as the front one no evidence of water entry at all didnt know what they should read in ohms so couldnt check them. RVT siliconed the rubber seal in after replacing the rear one and reassembled the car. the battery being disconnected for a couple hours reset the codes. when I restarted the car the engine light was gone it reappeared after driving for about two hrs. Then I checked the codes. I must say its cool to work on a car and hardly get dirty the last time I took off a maniflod it was on a 72 f100 with a 360 filthy
dirty greasy coolant in the crank case drain the oil and the manifold weighed about 90 pounds. Its tough to lean over the radiator and set it back on the gaskets without moving them.
Remember this is not the same code you mentioned you said 332 I think and this is a 327.

Yep, P0327 indidcates a fault in Knock Sensor 1, the forward sensor not the rear one.

How do you know this for sure? couldnt this be low voltage to the knock sensors not from them?

Chris

Didn't I list all the codes already? BTW your car has a built in code reader!



Do the following steps to retrieve all the codes stored in your C5:

1) Turn your ignition on. The engine doesn't have to be running, but it's ok if it is...

2) Press reset to clear any warning messages
3) Press and hold the "options" button
4) Press the "fuel" button 4 times while holding the options button down. The car will enter manual diagnostics and start displaying all the codes that are set for every control module in the car.

The diagnostic codes will flash across the screen in the following categories:

PCM - Poweretrain
TCS- Traction control and ABS
RTD- Real Time dampening
BCM- Body Control Module
IPC- Instrument Panel Cluster
Radio- Duh
HVAC- Heating, ventilation and A/C
LDCM- Left Door Control module
RDCM- Right Dorr control module
SCM- Seat control module
RFA- Remote function actuation

BCM (Body Control Module)—The main computer for the car.
PCM (Powertrain Control Module)—Controls anything that makes the car move (transmission, rear end, engine).
RFA (Remote Function Actuator)—Receives input from Tire Sensors and Key Fob.
HVAC (Heating, Ventillating and Air Conditioning)—Controls all of the climate-control hardware.
TCS (Traction Control System)—Controls Anti-slip regulation system.
LDCM (Left Door Control Module)—Handles all left-door operations.
RDCM (Right Door Control Module)—Handles all right-door operations.
IPC (Instrument Panel Cluster)—Handles dash operations.
SCM (Seat Control Module)—Integrated into BCM on later models.
SDM (Sensing Diagnosing Module)—Operates Inflatable Restraint System.

"C" after the code denotes that it is within the current ignition cycle.

"H" means it has occured in previous ignition cycles, but not the current one.

Anyway your P 1416 is your Passenger check valve on the A.I.R. Injection system. It's located behind the intake and is a real PITA to R&R. I would try squirting some PB Blaster or like upstream from the check valve, then start the engine and let the AIR pump work the PBB down into the check valve. That usually frees em back up agian.

Now, I don't know how long this little trick lasts, so far it seems to last quite awhile... he valve will not hurt your engine or performance, it's just an anooying code. It I were you I'd get a valve and plan on replacing someday in the future!

Not sure how I missed this post, great information to have. I just placed a post regarding tail light blowing on my continuously.

How do you know this for sure? couldnt this be low voltage to the knock sensors not from them?

Chris
I don't, 98% of the time it is though...

took the intake off again got to the front sensor and found the lower seal on the sensor had fallen down the post out of the galley plate letting engine oil into the sensor area. Thank god I dont wash my engine with water. Replaced both seals and the wire end to the front one. I still have the old knock sensor and all three ohm exactly the same its like100400 ohms in one direction and 98200 in the other
if i remember right. siliconed in the wire gromets again. will finish tomorrow.

Great!!!! Keep us posted!

Good job!!!

Great!!!! Keep us posted!

Good job!!!

tstar you seem to always have answers, have to ask are you a mechanic or someone that simply knows alot about these cars? :D

I pulled the intake back off and looked at the front sensor and noticed the lower seal below the sensor slid down out of the galley plate allowing engine oil to enter the sensor area. The wire and sensor were wet with oil. replaced both seals and the wire end for the front sensor hope this fixes it. Im getting better only 45 min to get down to and remove the galley plate no air tools.

tstar you seem to always have answers, have to ask are you a mechanic or someone that simply knows alot about these cars? :D
LOL No, I'm not a mechanic, I've just had my fair share of Vette lemons! Actually, I do all my own work and have learned alot... Funny thing is, don't aske me how to change plugs on a Didge Caravan though!