I decided to try to get the key warning buzzer working again on my 73, but I need a little help from my forum brothers. It's not for restoration purposes or even the ability to be reminded to pull the key out, its more the challenge of the thing. Years ago I had a black wire hanging down under the dash by the kick panel that wasn't connected to anything, so I just taped it and tucked it up and away. Now, several years later I had forgotten all about it but it must have come loose, as I was doing a little work last week in that general area while it was parked, key in, in the garage and I saw it, figuring something wasn't grounded. I couldn't recall anything important not working so I just touched the bare end to metal to see what it might be for. When the buzzer sounded I knew what it was! So, here is the thing: as long as it was grounded the buzzer stayed on. So I took out the door ajar switch and removed the makeshift ground of the black wire, connected it to the back of the door switch to one of the tabs (the other tab having the correct white wire connected) knowing it was supposed to go there, and now it still buzzes all the time unless the door is closed (courtesy lights off). It also SHOULD turn off when key is removed or ignition on. It makes no difference whether the key is in or not, or the ignition is turned forward or even turned on, only that the interior lights are off. That makes it partially working, and at least it is connected correctly. Until I figure out what's wrong, I took the black wire back off from the tab and taped it off. To narrow the problem down: I had the tile/tele column rebuilt several years ago so pretty confident in that. Put a new ignition cylinder in a year and a half ago, and unless I inserted it with the wrong orientation to engage the buzzer piece in the column THAT should be OK. The buzzer obviously sounds, and the noise comes from behind the dash between the tach and speedo so I know that is working. Looking at the chassis wiring diagram, and eyeballing it in person without disassembly, everything seems to be connected and working. I think the problem may be one of the following: somewhere along the wiring there may be a bare place in the insulation causing a short, but as it is not intermittent or changes over bumps etc, I am guessing that is a low probability. Next up I would guess that perhaps I did put the ignition cylinder in with wrong orientation but I really don't think so but I won't swear to it, and lastly and what I am led to believe might be most likely, the plastic and copper wire piece inside the column could be broken. I have had to remove the steering wheel a couple of times for a horn fix and the aforementioned key cylinder so it is possible I accidently messed that piece up. This piece is hard to come by apparently for T/T columns. This buzzer isn't important enough for me to take things apart only for the purpose of getting it to work, but if I had a reason for disassembly then I would try to see if anything was amiss and fix it while I was at it. So, does anyone have any other ideas on where to look or what to look at, things to check, things I've missed, or just an opinion on the problem?? Any help would be most appreciated. As an aside, unrelated, in the center gauge cluster, is the illumination for the headlights on lens dimmer than the illumination of the door ajar lens? In my car it is, so wondering if the bulb is dirty or dim or if that is the way it is supposed to be. Sorry for being so wordy!! Thanks again for any comments, ideas, help, etc!

Big T

Bump for the afternoon crowd.

There are a set of contacts in the key switch that are not releasing when the key is pulled out. try hitting (lightly)the column with a mallet. The contacts may release , if not you have to pull the ignition switch out, or at least the steering wheel and lock mech., to get to them. :wtf:

I am not a mechanic ... so if that was my situation I would disconnect the battery and then spray contact cleaner in there and work the key back and forth a bit.

Had sticky ignition on the Coup I used to have and it loosened up nicely!

OK thanks guys, I will try to re-connect the black wire to the door switch in the jamb, then spray some stuff into the keyhole and see how it goes. Are these contacts you mention located in the actual ignition cylinder itself, i.e. each new cylinder has these contacts, or is that the plastic and metal piece that is separate that is next to the cylinder when it is installed? I ask because the cylinder wasn't replaced too long ago, but it is my understanding that the separate part often breaks and a replacement is difficult to find. Also, does anyone have an answer for my light question at the end of my original post? Thanks again.

Big T

Yes the contacts are not contained within the Ign. switch itself but are actuated by a plastic tab coming out of the switch. This plastic tab presses on the contacts when the key is inserted into the lock cylinder. :thumbsup:

Yes the contacts are not contained within the Ign. switch itself but are actuated by a plastic tab coming out of the switch. This plastic tab presses on the contacts when the key is inserted into the lock cylinder. :thumbsup:

OK, I reconnected the black wire to the jamb switch and tried lightly hitting the column, squirting spray into the ignition, and a couple of other methods to get the buzzer to stop when the key is removed, but no dice. I believe the plastic piece in question here or the contacts have failed. At this time I will just accept that as the situation, and I don't really want to get things working bad enough to take the column partially apart. In the future if I am in there for something else I will look at that area. A big thanks to everyone for helping out and narrowing things down a little, I really appreciate the guidance and comments.:thumbsup3: Oh well, maybe I can find something else to tinker with next month!

Big T