I have to push the lever thing so that it'll catch the teeth and stay up. There is no clicking noise when I pull the lever. Any thoughts?

I have to push the lever thing so that it'll catch the teeth and stay up. There is no clicking noise when I pull the lever. Any thoughts?

Not sure what to tell you, but my C4 does the same, It won't click(not sure how the original function for the C4's are), nor will it catch all the way, just a little bit below mid point... I have not further investigated this.

Here try this

Service Parking Brake Lever

I've seen a number of postings in the Corvette Forum (CF) that describe taking the console off to service the parking brake pawl on the parking brake lever. If you want to take the console right off, here's some excellent instructions: if the link doesn't work when you click on it, paste it into your browser.

http://www.vetteessentials.com/ and then select the instruction page for replacing the parking brake boot.

I think the only reason that the console has to be moved is to let you take the boot right off the parking brake lever. I'm sure that taking the console off will make the job easier, but I don't think that it is necessary just to check the pawl. By taking the passenger seat out, the carpeting on the tunnel can be pulled down enough to let you remove the fasteners holding the parking brake to the tunnel and pull the bottom of the lever mechanism out enough that you can check/service the pawl. If you find that the pawl is really stuck, you can always take the console off after the fact. The console has to be lifted/moved enough to let you undo the fasteners that hold the boot in place. In my case, I found that the pawl was not stuck or sticking. Maybe they changed the way they lubed in for 2001. There was no sign of any kind of hardened grease hanging things up at all. The spring loaded mechanism and pawl were dry, clean and free to operate. I ended up servicing the pawl assembly and putting it all back together. At least I know that this aspect of the parking brake is good!!!

1. Use the seat adjuster to position the passenger seat so you can get at both the front and rear seat fasteners. If you disconnect the battery at this point, you can leave the door open and not worry about the battery. Tilt the seat back ahead and remove the two rear nuts using a 15 mm socket. On the front of the seat, remove the two plastic nut covers then the 15 mm socket to remove the front nuts. Lift the front of the seat to tilt it back and disconnect one electrical plug. Lift the seat out and put it down where you won't trip over it.




2. The tunnel carpet is fastened to the boot with velcro. Pull the carpet down at his point and then work towards the front of the carpet. The carpet will slip out from under the console with no difficulty. Working towards the rear, not much carpet will come out, but enough will to let you do the next steps. I used a chunk of 2x4 to hold the carpet away from the tunnel to let me work behind it.










3. Using a #40 torx socket, remove the three fasteners that hold the parking brake mechanism to the tunnel. Putting your hand under the bottom of the mechanism, pull it out and up as far as the boot will allow you to without putting a strain on anything. You may want to disconnect the parking brake light switch, you don't have to though. Put something (I used the ratchet) between the mechanism and the tunnel to keep the mechanism out.










4. Place a mirror between the tunnel and the park brake mechanism in such a way that you can very clearly see the pawl. Check for old sticky grease or a possible broken or displaced spring. Reach in behind and feel the pawl for free movement. It should pivot freely with no stickiness. Apply the parking brake slightly, the pawl should engage the teeth with no difficulty. In my case, the pawl was free and was working as it should. Regardless, I sprayed it liberally with ... you guessed it ... WD40, and worked the pawl back and forth letting it snap back into place when I pulled it away from the teeth. The area where the parking brake handle is located is pretty clean and dust free, so I used engine oil to give it it's final lubrication before replacing the unit. No grease to harden up and cause a problem down the road!

Thanks for throwing that info out there 4u2nv :thumbsup3:

Here try this

Service Parking Brake Lever

I've seen a number of postings in the Corvette Forum (CF) that describe taking the console off to service the parking brake pawl on the parking brake lever. If you want to take the console right off, here's some excellent instructions: if the link doesn't work when you click on it, paste it into your browser.

http://www.vetteessentials.com/ and then select the instruction page for replacing the parking brake boot.

I think the only reason that the console has to be moved is to let you take the boot right off the parking brake lever. I'm sure that taking the console off will make the job easier, but I don't think that it is necessary just to check the pawl. By taking the passenger seat out, the carpeting on the tunnel can be pulled down enough to let you remove the fasteners holding the parking brake to the tunnel and pull the bottom of the lever mechanism out enough that you can check/service the pawl. If you find that the pawl is really stuck, you can always take the console off after the fact. The console has to be lifted/moved enough to let you undo the fasteners that hold the boot in place. In my case, I found that the pawl was not stuck or sticking. Maybe they changed the way they lubed in for 2001. There was no sign of any kind of hardened grease hanging things up at all. The spring loaded mechanism and pawl were dry, clean and free to operate. I ended up servicing the pawl assembly and putting it all back together. At least I know that this aspect of the parking brake is good!!!

1. Use the seat adjuster to position the passenger seat so you can get at both the front and rear seat fasteners. If you disconnect the battery at this point, you can leave the door open and not worry about the battery. Tilt the seat back ahead and remove the two rear nuts using a 15 mm socket. On the front of the seat, remove the two plastic nut covers then the 15 mm socket to remove the front nuts. Lift the front of the seat to tilt it back and disconnect one electrical plug. Lift the seat out and put it down where you won't trip over it.




2. The tunnel carpet is fastened to the boot with velcro. Pull the carpet down at his point and then work towards the front of the carpet. The carpet will slip out from under the console with no difficulty. Working towards the rear, not much carpet will come out, but enough will to let you do the next steps. I used a chunk of 2x4 to hold the carpet away from the tunnel to let me work behind it.










3. Using a #40 torx socket, remove the three fasteners that hold the parking brake mechanism to the tunnel. Putting your hand under the bottom of the mechanism, pull it out and up as far as the boot will allow you to without putting a strain on anything. You may want to disconnect the parking brake light switch, you don't have to though. Put something (I used the ratchet) between the mechanism and the tunnel to keep the mechanism out.










4. Place a mirror between the tunnel and the park brake mechanism in such a way that you can very clearly see the pawl. Check for old sticky grease or a possible broken or displaced spring. Reach in behind and feel the pawl for free movement. It should pivot freely with no stickiness. Apply the parking brake slightly, the pawl should engage the teeth with no difficulty. In my case, the pawl was free and was working as it should. Regardless, I sprayed it liberally with ... you guessed it ... WD40, and worked the pawl back and forth letting it snap back into place when I pulled it away from the teeth. The area where the parking brake handle is located is pretty clean and dust free, so I used engine oil to give it it's final lubrication before replacing the unit. No grease to harden up and cause a problem down the road!

Great post bro!

Thank you but I cant take the credit for writing it up. I found it a couple of years ago and save it cause it helped me out when I had to do it. hope it helps out.

Thank you but I cant take the credit for writing it up. I found it a couple of years ago and save it cause it helped me out when I had to do it. hope it helps out.

But that is what most people do! That is why these forums are so great!

I had one once that would not release.

I had one once that would not release.

Powerslide? lol

Update gents, of what I can tell, the lever that get into the grooves (that makes the clicking noise) was not doing that and it appears that the spring is shot or not operating properly.

I had one once that would not release.

Do you remember what was wrong?

Yea, but where do you start, the console end or the wheel end. I have the same thing going on!

Console end will be easier to get to that is where I would start!