I just about ready to buy a new set of heads to rebuild my L98 now it has the stock Iron one on it.

I planning to put This cam set up in the new motor.
Brand COMP Cams
Product Line COMP Cams Computer-Controlled Camshafts
Cam Style Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range 1,200-5,200
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 212
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 212
Duration at 050 inch Lift 212 int./212 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration 260
Advertised Exhaust Duration 260
Advertised Duration 260 int./260 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.444 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.444 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.444 int./0.444 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees) 112
Intake Valve Lash 0.000 in.
Exhaust Valve Lash 0.000 in.
Computer-Controlled Compatible Yes
Grind Number CS 260H-12 (350/T.P.I.)

Intake.
Edelbrock
Manufacturer's Part Number 3860
Part Type Intake Manifolds, Fuel Injected
Product Line Edelbrock High-Flo TPI Base Plates
Engine Block Style Stock/OEM standard deck
Injection Style Multi-port
Basic Operating RPM Range Idle-5,500
Intake Section Included Base only

I trying to find a set of big tube runners.

Through the stock exhaust headers.

FIC 22# injectors

30 over 350

I want a 383 but that is end up to be to much cash flow for me.

I trying to keep the motor to run on pump gas every day driver

Which heads should I get what runner size should I bee looking for I been looking at 170 and 175 intake runnres so far but I need some more input what to look for.
202 Intake 160 Ex

What head cc size to get I been looking at 64 cc
Angle plug straight plugs ?.

And what deck height ect the piston should have dome flat dish ect.

I will be buying parts here very soon.

And what kind of power should I bee seening out of this kind of combo.

I having the auto trans gone through at the same time

Ca car I need to get passed smog with it still, I been looking at all CARB EO parts for this build

Thanks

Personally I think your gonna want a bit more cam.
268H, I'm running total lift of .510/.508, but again thats only my opinion.

I am actually happy with the Patriots heads as well. For the money they are pretty good IMO, I also had my machinest go through them

I would like to have more lift and over lap but it called Ca Smog games thats screws me on this.

I asking others what can I get away with

And for the heads what size runners and head CC should I be looking for.

I know I going to have to get the chip flashed for this mod.

Personally I think your gonna want a bit more cam.
268H, I'm running total lift of .510/.508, but again thats only my opinion.

I am actually happy with the Patriots heads as well. For the money they are pretty good IMO, I also had my machinest go through them

Mine is 114 LSA, Patriots are 190cc runners 64cc chambers.
What year do you have?

1986 it all stock this month so far but oon to change.

Don't you have a 383.

I staying with a 350 bored 30 over I will not need that big of a cam as you willneed.

And which injectors are you using as in #s.

Personally I think your gonna want a bit more cam.
268H, I'm running total lift of .510/.508, but again thats only my opinion.

I am actually happy with the Patriots heads as well. For the money they are pretty good IMO, I also had my machinest go through them

:iagree:
THAT IS A PRETTY MILD CAM. AN L98 WITH IRON HEADS SHOULD BE A 1985, OR A 1986E. WITH THE #624 CAST HEADS THE STOCK COMBUSTION CHAMBERS ARE 76 CCS. ANY LESS IN THE NEW HEADS WILL RAISE THE COMPRESSION RATIO. ANY MORE (RARE) WILL LOWER IT. THE DECK CLEARANCE FOR ALL THE L98S I AM AWARE OF IS .025 DOWN THE HOLE. THE 1985 USED FORGED PISTINS, THE ONLT L98 THAT DID. THE FACTORY CR WAS 9.00:1. PLAN CAREFULLY TO COME UP WITH PARTS THAT ARE COMPATIBLE WITH YOUR INTENDED USAGE AND POWER GOALS.

RACE ON!!!

[I have a eary 86 so 76cc are the head cc stock thanks I thought they were 58"s.

How big of a cam should I go with I like to see at least 300 HP 350 Would be my target if I could get the car meet smog.

I always like a 350 horse 350 V-8 always a cool number 1 house for every Cuib.

QUOTE=CFI-EFI;480517]:iagree:
THAT IS A PRETTY MILD CAM. AN L98 WITH IRON HEADS SHOULD BE A 1985, OR A 1986E. WITH THE #624 CAST HEADS THE STOCK COMBUSTION CHAMBERS ARE 76 CCS. ANY LESS IN THE NEW HEADS WILL RAISE THE COMPRESSION RATIO. ANY MORE (RARE) WILL LOWER IT. THE DECK CLEARANCE FOR ALL THE L98S I AM AWARE OF IS .025 DOWN THE HOLE. THE 1985 USED FORGED PISTINS, THE ONLT L98 THAT DID. THE FACTORY CR WAS 9.00:1. PLAN CAREFULLY TO COME UP WITH PARTS THAT ARE COMPATIBLE WITH YOUR INTENDED USAGE AND POWER GOALS.

RACE ON!!![/QUOTE]

Would this be a better ca for what I want to do.

Brand COMP Cams
Manufacturer's Part Number 12-364-4
Part Type Camshafts
Product Line COMP Cams Xtreme Fuel Injected Camshafts
Summit Racing Part Number CCA-12-364-4

Cam Style Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range 1,300-5,300
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 208
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 217
Duration at 050 inch Lift 208 int./217 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration 252
Advertised Exhaust Duration 266
Advertised Duration 252 int./266 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.477 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.472 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.477 int./0.472 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees) 113
Intake Valve Lash 0.000 in.
Exhaust Valve Lash 0.000 in.
Computer-Controlled Compatible Yes
Grind Number 252XFI H13

Any one know what the stock cam lift and duration numbers are.

[I have a eary 86 so 76cc are the head cc stock thanks I thought they were 58"s.

How big of a cam should I go with I like to see at least 300 HP 350 Would be my target if I could get the car meet smog.

I always like a 350 horse 350 V-8 always a cool number 1 house for every Cuib.

QUOTE=CFI-EFI;480517]:iagree:
THAT IS A PRETTY MILD CAM. AN L98 WITH IRON HEADS SHOULD BE A 1985, OR A 1986E. WITH THE #624 CAST HEADS THE STOCK COMBUSTION CHAMBERS ARE 76 CCS. ANY LESS IN THE NEW HEADS WILL RAISE THE COMPRESSION RATIO. ANY MORE (RARE) WILL LOWER IT. THE DECK CLEARANCE FOR ALL THE L98S I AM AWARE OF IS .025 DOWN THE HOLE. THE 1985 USED FORGED PISTINS, THE ONLT L98 THAT DID. THE FACTORY CR WAS 9.00:1. PLAN CAREFULLY TO COME UP WITH PARTS THAT ARE COMPATIBLE WITH YOUR INTENDED USAGE AND POWER GOALS.

RACE ON!!![/QUOTE]

No 383 yet. A few more months, thats why I went with the heads that I did. My 2040 cam I had before this one is more wild than the one you chose. And that was in reality a small cam. Comp makes 3 different 268H, I chose the largest and think it may pass your smog laws. It should list that information on there site.

Any one know what the stock cam lift and duration numbers are.
The '87 roller cam is
202/207 .404/ .415 LSA 114.5
I doubt yours would be much different

[I have a early 86 so 76cc are the head cc stock thanks I thought they were 58"s.
The alum L98 heads ( 128 / 113's ) are 58cc

With you budget and expectations I would put a set of Vortec heads on it and buy the Vortec TPI base to suit
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-3817/
Vortecs have exception good low / mid lift flows and are best bang for $$ head out there .
Basically a cast iron version of the alum LT1 head reworked for reg SBC's

never mind see post below.

I just about ready to buy a new set of heads to rebuild my L98 now it has the stock Iron one on it.
COOL!

I planning to put This cam set up in the new motor.
Brand COMP Cams
Product Line COMP Cams Computer-Controlled Camshafts
Cam Style Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range 1,200-5,200
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 212
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 212
Duration at 050 inch Lift 212 int./212 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration 260
Advertised Exhaust Duration 260
Advertised Duration 260 int./260 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.444 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.444 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.444 int./0.444 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees) 112
Intake Valve Lash 0.000 in.
Exhaust Valve Lash 0.000 in.
Computer-Controlled Compatible Yes
Grind Number CS 260H-12 (350/T.P.I.)


I think you can go bigger, even with CA emissions. Remember, more cubes the cam will act smaller

Intake.
Edelbrock
Manufacturer's Part Number 3860
Part Type Intake Manifolds, Fuel Injected
Product Line Edelbrock High-Flo TPI Base Plates
Engine Block Style Stock/OEM standard deck
Injection Style Multi-port
Basic Operating RPM Range Idle-5,500
Intake Section Included Base only

Not a bad choice.

I trying to find a set of big tube runners.

New or used?

FIC 22# injectors

Not big enough, 28 is better. Call jon, I'm sure he'll swap them.

I trying to keep the motor to run on pump gas every day driver

Which heads should I get what runner size should I bee looking for I been looking at 170 and 175 intake runnres so far but I need some more input what to look for.
202 Intake 160 Ex


I don't buy the small runner stuff. That would make a great dump truck motor, but I really think you should be looking at 200 CC or better. If you want to spin this up you need the cross sectional area to support the application, REGARDLESS what static flow numbers tell you. A small port REGARDLESS OF FLOW will fall on its face sooner than a properly sized head.

Vortec are a good choice, if your staying with the stock format Profiler has been having a ton of success for under $1000 a pair.

Runners I'd like to see 200. There has been a false school of thought perpetrated by a manufacturer who has a vested interest in selling small ported heads. He told me for my 427 I needed 195CC heads based on marketing bullsh*t. Anyone with 1/2 a brain knows that isn't going to work unless I'm hauling cow manure.

The question is what do you want out of the car? Small runners with a TPI will make a great dumptruck motor, but if you want some performance I'm calling for 200CC. This will take your power band up the curve, small ports will fall on their face I don't care what kind of flow you have. Go look at what racers are really doing, they are calling my 215s PUNY for my 427, but it does what I want, falls off about 6400.

What head cc size to get I been looking at 64 cc

No reason that won't work.

Angle plug straight plugs ?.

Depends on the headers. Ask the head manufacturer what plays nice with stock headers.

And what deck height ect the piston should have dome flat dish ect.

Depends. What compression are you shooting for. Pump gas will tolerate 10.5 pretty easily.

I will be buying parts here very soon.

Give me a shot at some of the intake/fuel stuff. You'll probably need a pump too.

I can get you pricing on the rest, and don't mark it up much at all, but it's not my core business.


And what kind of power should I bee seeing out of this kind of combo.

Who cares. Don't build to a dyno build to an application. Do you want to be fast or do you want to brag about a dyno number. A dyno is merely a TOOL to make adjustments, it's not a hard and fast indicator of results. I've seen guys with a reported 100 HP less smoke others with dyno motors.

Shooting for dyno numbers is for chumps IMO. Show me a slip, take me at a light, then we'll talk.

Are you doing this work yourself? If not, what did your builder say and why not listen to them?
Why are you limiting yourself to 5500 RPM parts? Why not spin it to 6500?

Another thing, save yourself some money use the LS7 lifters for $130

If you're going to go mail order for the chip, we do this too. I did one for a forum member, it's in the WANTED TO BUY section, he was happy. $110 for a chip.

What can I safley spin with recontion rods and crank I dont need a time bomb wating to happen.
It a street car and will become a everyday driver in the summertime.

I having the trany gone though I read the stock Tq Converter should work 1986 have a higher stall stock than others.

I trying to keep price around $3500.00 for the motor.

I will have the crank and piston Installed but I going to do the rest my self.

I rather a shop measure the play in the crank and rods I could do this I feel better If a good shop gets it right not thinking it was right.

I getting the ChiP flashed for the combo I going to run and also tell them get rid of that stupid EGR code 32 I can get rid of.

Which Computer or NON compter cam would you use thart will pass smog I would like more over lap to get that I am a bad *** motor sound.


COOL!



I think you can go bigger, even with CA emissions. Remember, more cubes the cam will act smaller



Not a bad choice.



New or used?



Not big enough, 28 is better. Call jon, I'm sure he'll swap them.



I don't buy the small runner stuff. That would make a great dump truck motor, but I really think you should be looking at 200 CC or better. If you want to spin this up you need the cross sectional area to support the application, REGARDLESS what static flow numbers tell you. A small port REGARDLESS OF FLOW will fall on its face sooner than a properly sized head.

Vortec are a good choice, if your staying with the stock format Profiler has been having a ton of success for under $1000 a pair.

Runners I'd like to see 200. There has been a false school of thought perpetrated by a manufacturer who has a vested interest in selling small ported heads. He told me for my 427 I needed 195CC heads based on marketing bullsh*t. Anyone with 1/2 a brain knows that isn't going to work unless I'm hauling cow manure.

The question is what do you want out of the car? Small runners with a TPI will make a great dumptruck motor, but if you want some performance I'm calling for 200CC. This will take your power band up the curve, small ports will fall on their face I don't care what kind of flow you have. Go look at what racers are really doing, they are calling my 215s PUNY for my 427, but it does what I want, falls off about 6400.



No reason that won't work.



Depends on the headers. Ask the head manufacturer what plays nice with stock headers.


Depends. What compression are you shooting for. Pump gas will tolerate 10.5 pretty easily.



Give me a shot at some of the intake/fuel stuff. You'll probably need a pump too.

I can get you pricing on the rest, and don't mark it up much at all, but it's not my core business.



Who cares. Don't build to a dyno build to an application. Do you want to be fast or do you want to brag about a dyno number. A dyno is merely a TOOL to make adjustments, it's not a hard and fast indicator of results. I've seen guys with a reported 100 HP less smoke others with dyno motors.

Shooting for dyno numbers is for chumps IMO. Show me a slip, take me at a light, then we'll talk.

What can I safley spin with recontion rods and crank I dont need a time bomb wating to happen.

Done right, there's an easy 1000 RPMs left in the motor. The parts won't break.

It a street car and will become a everyday driver in the summertime.

RPM=HP If you're concerned with going fast, you need to spin it. My daily driver CTS redlines at 7000. I never understood why when something is labled "street car" all of a sudden all the things needed for performance go out the window. You can spin that up and not have a time bomb.

I having the trany gone though I read the stock Tq Converter should work 1986 have a higher stall stock than others.

2400/2600 would probably be a good place for a street car.

I trying to keep price around $3500.00 for the motor.

Cheap, fast, works....like the rest of us here, including myself, best to do it right than cheap. Not saying you have to spend a ton of money, but whatever you do, do it right. You're concerned about the "ticking time bomb" you have more of a chance of that exploding by cutting corners on the assembly than you do running it to 6500 RPMs.

I will have the crank and piston Installed but I going to do the rest my self.

Have them install the cam too. If you don't know how to use a cam wheel, have someone else do it. Setting up the cam right will help. It's not rocket science, but I'm getting the feeling better to let the people doing the short block do it.

I rather a shop measure the play in the crank and rods I could do this I feel better If a good shop gets it right not thinking it was right.

Yep, check the deck, the line hone, etc,....

Balance it.

I getting the ChiP flashed for the combo I going to run and also tell them get rid of that stupid EGR code 32 I can get rid of.

Let me know how I can help...

Which Computer or NON compter cam would you use thart will pass smog I would like more over lap to get that I am a bad *** motor sound.

You can get a more aggressive EFI cam. More duration.

I think you whar direction I headed for building this motor it sounds like you know what you are talking about what part you you get cam heads Ect with in reason prices.

I willing for the motor turn 6500 RPMs but I doubt It will see that much rpm's much.

Done right, there's an easy 1000 RPMs left in the motor. The parts won't break.


RPM=HP If you're concerned with going fast, you need to spin it. My daily driver CTS redlines at 7000. I never understood why when something is labled "street car" all of a sudden all the things needed for performance go out the window. You can spin that up and not have a time bomb.



2400/2600 would probably be a good place for a street car.



Cheap, fast, works....like the rest of us here, including myself, best to do it right than cheap. Not saying you have to spend a ton of money, but whatever you do, do it right. You're concerned about the "ticking time bomb" you have more of a chance of that exploding by cutting corners on the assembly than you do running it to 6500 RPMs.


Have them install the cam too. If you don't know how to use a cam wheel, have someone else do it. Setting up the cam right will help. It's not rocket science, but I'm getting the feeling better to let the people doing the short block do it.



Yep, check the deck, the line hone, etc,....

Balance it.



Let me know how I can help...



You can get a more aggressive EFI cam. More duration.

I think you whar direction I headed for building this motor it sounds like you know what you are talking about what part you you get cam heads Ect with in reason prices.

I willing for the motor turn 6500 RPMs but I doubt It will see that much rpm's much.

Well, first thing I'd do if I were you is get the block checked out and magnafluxed. Do the same for the crank, the rods, etc... all the parts you're going to use over again. You'll need pistons, rings, maybe just rings, I don't know Get them checked out and set up by a professional. And don't nickle and dime a good guy. Pay him what he wants. Ask around. I see you said "way out west" there's a lot of CA guys on Vettemod and Motorgen. They are west coast centric. Get a good recommendation for a good shop to set up the bottom end.

See what you're up against with what you have then look at your budget and go from there.

I have a special on Cam/lifters for $130. I like the second one, but it's a 110 seperation and can be a trick to tune, the first one is probably better for you. Pick your cam set up, get a timing set for $40.

http://www.smokinvette.com/corvetteforum/showthread.php?t=42384

I have a complete gasket set for about $30.
http://www.smokinvette.com/corvetteforum/showthread.php?t=41980

Get this stuff, set up your bottom end, put the tin back on, then see what kind of money you have left for heads/intake.

That's my .02. To discuss anything before knowing what you are dealing with given the condition of the bottom end.

If i go with one of your cam deals which one do you use.

And if I send you my computer chip to flash for the set up can get pass smog witgh it still I think I go With the This head set up

Manufacturer's Part Number 60909
Part Type Cylinder Heads
Product Line Edelbrock Performer Cylinder Heads
Summit Racing Part Number EDL-60909

Cylinder Head Style Assembled
Cylinder Head Material Aluminum
Cylinder Head Finish Natural
Combustion Chamber Volume (cc) 64
CNC-Machined Combustion Chamber No
Intake Runner Volume (cc) 185cc
Exhaust Runner Volume (cc) 65cc
CNC-Machined Intake Runner No
CNC-Machined Exhaust Runner No
Intake Port Location Standard
Exhaust Port Shape Square
Exhaust Port Location Standard
Spark Plug Style Straight
Intake Valves Included Yes
Intake Valve Diameter (in) 2.020 in.
Exhaust Valves Included Yes
Exhaust Valve Diameter (in) 1.600 in.
Valve Springs Included Yes
Maximum Valve Lift (in) 0.575 in.
Outside Diameter of Outer Spring (in) 1.460 in.
Damper Spring Included No
Number of Springs Per Valve Single
Retainers Included Yes
Retainer Material Steel
Locks Included Yes
Lock Style 7 degree
Valve Stem Seals Included Yes
Valve Stem Seal Style PC seal
Rocker Arm Studs Included Yes
Rocker Arm Nut Thread Size 3/8-24 in.
Rocker Arms Included No
Rocker Arm Nuts Included No
Guideplates Included Yes
Guideplate Pushrod Size 5/16 in.
Valve Cover Mounting Style Perimeter bolt
Accessory Bolt Holes Drilled Yes
Valve Guides Included Yes
Valve Guide Material Manganese bronze
Valve Seats Machined Yes
Valve Seat Machine Style 3-angle
Valve Seat Material Ductile iron
Steam Holes Drilled No
Oiling Style Through pushrod
Machined for O-Ring No
Heat Crossover Yes
Quantity Sold individually.
Notes Intakes designed for 1987 to 1995 cast iron heads will not

And run the motor at 10 to 1


I also planning to use rollor rock stamped type arms 1.5.

Lke I said I ready to order parts now to get this project going.


QUOTE=InjectorsPlus;480593]Done right, there's an easy 1000 RPMs left in the motor. The parts won't break.


RPM=HP If you're concerned with going fast, you need to spin it. My daily driver CTS redlines at 7000. I never understood why when something is labled "street car" all of a sudden all the things needed for performance go out the window. You can spin that up and not have a time bomb.



2400/2600 would probably be a good place for a street car.



Cheap, fast, works....like the rest of us here, including myself, best to do it right than cheap. Not saying you have to spend a ton of money, but whatever you do, do it right. You're concerned about the "ticking time bomb" you have more of a chance of that exploding by cutting corners on the assembly than you do running it to 6500 RPMs.


Have them install the cam too. If you don't know how to use a cam wheel, have someone else do it. Setting up the cam right will help. It's not rocket science, but I'm getting the feeling better to let the people doing the short block do it.



Yep, check the deck, the line hone, etc,....

Balance it.



Let me know how I can help...



You can get a more aggressive EFI cam. More duration.[/QUOTE]

Well, first thing I'd do if I were you is get the block checked out and magnafluxed. Do the same for the crank, the rods, etc... all the parts you're going to use over again. You'll need pistons, rings, maybe just rings, I don't know Get them checked out and set up by a professional. And don't nickle and dime a good guy. Pay him what he wants. Ask around. I see you said "way out west" there's a lot of CA guys on Vettemod and Motorgen. They are west coast centric. Get a good recommendation for a good shop to set up the bottom end.

See what you're up against with what you have then look at your budget and go from there.

I have a special on Cam/lifters for $130. I like the second one, but it's a 110 seperation and can be a trick to tune, the first one is probably better for you. Pick your cam set up, get a timing set for $40.

http://www.smokinvette.com/corvetteforum/showthread.php?t=42384

I have a complete gasket set for about $30.
http://www.smokinvette.com/corvetteforum/showthread.php?t=41980

Get this stuff, set up your bottom end, put the tin back on, then see what kind of money you have left for heads/intake.

That's my .02. To discuss anything before knowing what you are dealing with given the condition of the bottom end.

This head set up

Manufacturer's Part Number 60909
Part Type Cylinder Heads
Product Line Edelbrock Performer Cylinder Heads
Summit Racing Part Number EDL-60909


I think INJ Plus would agree if you are prepared to drop $1150 on the Edlebrock heads you would be better to buy TFS @ $1050 .
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-30400001/

or if you didn't want to go to a195 port then 175's for less. Even have a CARB #
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-30300001/

$40 to replace the valve springs and you are still ahead

Do a Google search .
Edlebrock Alum heads don't rate too high is some circles

I need straight plug head and Trick Flows are angled I looded at them do to using the stock manifold exhaust.

I think INJ Plus would agree if you are prepared to drop $1150 on the Edlebrock heads you would be better to buy TFS @ $1050 .
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-30400001/

or if you didn't want to go to a195 port then 175's for less. Even have a CARB #
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-30300001/

$40 to replace the valve springs and you are still ahead

Do a Google search .
Edlebrock Alum heads don't rate too high is some circles

I need straight plug head and Trick Flows are angled I looded at them do to using the stock manifold exhaust.


I'm running my stock stainless steel tubing exhaust manifolds. I bought Dart angle plug heads so I would have more clearance around my spark plugs. I'm glad I bought the angle plug heads because it's MUCH easier to get to my spark plugs now.

Glad to know that other have said I would have problems If went with angle plug heads.

I'm running my stock stainless steel tubing exhaust manifolds. I bought Dart angle plug heads so I would have more clearance around my spark plugs. I'm glad I bought the angle plug heads because it's MUCH easier to get to my spark plugs now.

I've got a pair of Trick Flow 23* heads(angled plugs), I reused the factory manifolds w/ no problems.

I ready like the trick flows how good do they work and what cam specs are you running.

I just like to make sure I buy the right comb not something I wish I researched more.

=ex-x-fire;481089]I've got a pair of Trick Flow 23* heads(angled plugs), I reused the factory manifolds w/ no problems.[/QUOTE]

I need straight plug head and Trick Flows are angled I looded at them do to using the stock manifold exhaust.
You would be wasting your $$$ putting exh stock manifold on a good flowing head.May as leave stock heads on if you are doing that

The Cam I thinking of going with Is the Howards CL110931 288/288 Duration .447/.447 @050 C/L 111

I thinking of for heads Edelbrock 60909 or Trick Flows 195 @25

The Cam I thinking of going with Is the Howards CL110931 288/288 Duration .447/.447 @050 C/L 111

I thinking of for heads Edelbrock 60909 or Trick Flows 195 @25

That sounds like a reasonable setup. I'll have info tomorrow on the cam and gasket set. Specials are "unitl sold out" so I'll know early in the AM!

Personally I think your gonna want a bit more cam.
268H, I'm running total lift of .510/.508, but again thats only my opinion.

I am actually happy with the Patriots heads as well. For the money they are pretty good IMO, I also had my machinest go through them

YES!! More cam!

Here my NEW motor build I just got done ordering SBC short block 355 flat top pistons 4 bolt main.
Melling Oil pump.
Howards Cam .447/.447 Duration @050 288/288 214/214 C/L 111
Lifters
Push rods
Push rod guides
Gasket set.
Summit Racing Aluminum Head 170 Runner CARB EO approved.
1.5 roller tip rocker arms,
APR fasteners
TPIS
Big Mouth Manifold
Large Tube Runners
I am trying to keep looking stock much as I can.
Using all the stock tins.
I going for the sleeper look it looks and sounds stock but suprize it not.
I should be having 9.5 to 1 compression if all the numbers work out.

I already have the L98 Sold to a guy at work.
Cost of the Build just in parts. $2793.64
I don’t think it was that bad

After the new motor is built and pulled the old motor out it's time to take the auto trans down to get built up.

If you could, I'd go with bigger runners on the heads...180, maybe slightly larger. I believe the Summit heads are made by TFS, as they own them.

The cam is a little light, but given you're subject to CARB perhaps not a bad idea. I think you'll be happy. For less than $2500 hard to beat.

I was talking to the gut next door he said he wants to port my new heads for me.

He has a built Vett but he from out of state and Exempt from the smog games out here he Airforce and registers his car out of state.

I going to ask him if he can port macth the intake and maifold Ect.

I am crossing my fingers I made the right comb building this motor for what I want to use it for.

Like I said 300 HP would be nice moer would be a plus.

I wish I knew how to find out what this combo should do with out putting on a dyno to find out.

I was talking to the gut next door he said he wants to port my new heads for me.

He has a built Vett but he from out of state and Exempt from the smog games out here he Airforce and registers his car out of state.

I going to ask him if he can port macth the intake and maifold Ect.

I am crossing my fingers I made the right comb building this motor for what I want to use it for.

Like I said 300 HP would be nice moer would be a plus.

I wish I knew how to find out what this combo should do with out putting on a dyno to find out.

Without knowing who this guy is, not sure weather to tell you to let him port them or not. If he's intelligent enough, then yeah.

300 HP is easy I think with what you're looking at. You're well within budget and should consider an intake and exhaust change with the leftover money. Intake first.

I getting a big mouth intake and there big tube runners to with it.

Without knowing who this guy is, not sure weather to tell you to let him port them or not. If he's intelligent enough, then yeah.

300 HP is easy I think with what you're looking at. You're well within budget and should consider an intake and exhaust change with the leftover money. Intake first.

Hey marv. I can get you that TPIS manifold if that is the way you want to go

Let me know

I'm checking on 1.6 rockers I'll have that pricing and the intake.

Again, I typically do engine parts, but have access to stuff so if it helps, I'll do what I can to help out. The speicals I get are actually TOO CHEAP not to put up.

Thanks...

I have change my order on the heads as others said I should do go with a larger runner. I changed them to.

Brand Trick Flow Specialties
Manufacturer's Part Number TFS-30400001
Part Type Cylinder Heads
Product Line Trick Flow® Super 23® 195 Cylinder Heads for Small Block Chevrolet
Summit Racing Part Number TFS-30400001

Cylinder Head Style Assembled
Cylinder Head Material Aluminum
Cylinder Head Finish Natural
Combustion Chamber Volume (cc) 62
CNC-Machined Combustion Chamber No
Intake Runner Volume (cc) 195cc
Exhaust Runner Volume (cc) 75cc
CNC-Machined Intake Runner No
CNC-Machined Exhaust Runner No
Intake Port Location Standard
Exhaust Port Shape D-port
Exhaust Port Location Standard
Spark Plug Style Angle
Intake Valves Included Yes
Intake Valve Diameter (in) 2.020 in.
Exhaust Valves Included Yes
Exhaust Valve Diameter (in) 1.600 in.
Valve Springs Included Yes
Maximum Valve Lift (in) 0.480 in.
Outside Diameter of Outer Spring (in) 1.250 in.
Damper Spring Included Yes
Number of Springs Per Valve Single
Retainers Included Yes
Retainer Material Chromemoly steel
Locks Included Yes
Lock Style 7 degree
Valve Stem Seals Included Yes
Valve Stem Seal Style Viton® fluoroelastomer
Rocker Arm Studs Included Yes
Rocker Arm Nut Thread Size 3/8-24 in.
Rocker Arms Included No
Rocker Arm Nuts Included No
Guideplates Included Yes
Guideplate Pushrod Size 5/16 in.
Valve Cover Mounting Style Perimeter bolt
Accessory Bolt Holes Drilled Yes
Intake Valve Angle 23
Exhaust Valve Angle 23
Valve Guides Included Yes
Valve Guide Material Manganese bronze
Valve Seats Machined Yes
Valve Seat Machine Style 3-angle
Valve Seat Material Tungsten
Steam Holes Drilled No
Oiling Style Through pushrod
Machined for O-Ring No
Heat Crossover Yes
CARB EO Number D-369-16 (pdf)
To see a list of qualifying vehicles, enter CARB EO Number D-369-16
Quantity Sold as a pair.
Notes Will not fit centerbolt-style intake manifolds.

I hope this is a better head it was only $54.00 more.

I like the sleeper look it's always fun messing with pepole.

I just sold my 1996 CR500 motor that I stuffed in to a 2005 CFR450X frame some knew what it was others knew something was up but just did not have a clue why it did not look like ther Stock CRF450's.

And other tryed to figure out why it did not sound like there CR250's.

I have change my order on the heads as others said I should do go with a larger runner. I changed them to.

Brand Trick Flow Specialties
Manufacturer's Part Number TFS-30400001
Part Type Cylinder Heads
Product Line Trick Flow® Super 23® 195 Cylinder Heads for Small Block Chevrolet
Summit Racing Part Number TFS-30400001

Cylinder Head Style Assembled
Cylinder Head Material Aluminum
Cylinder Head Finish Natural
Combustion Chamber Volume (cc) 62
CNC-Machined Combustion Chamber No
Intake Runner Volume (cc) 195cc
Exhaust Runner Volume (cc) 75cc
CNC-Machined Intake Runner No
CNC-Machined Exhaust Runner No
Intake Port Location Standard
Exhaust Port Shape D-port
Exhaust Port Location Standard
Spark Plug Style Angle
Intake Valves Included Yes
Intake Valve Diameter (in) 2.020 in.
Exhaust Valves Included Yes
Exhaust Valve Diameter (in) 1.600 in.
Valve Springs Included Yes
Maximum Valve Lift (in) 0.480 in.
Outside Diameter of Outer Spring (in) 1.250 in.
Damper Spring Included Yes
Number of Springs Per Valve Single
Retainers Included Yes
Retainer Material Chromemoly steel
Locks Included Yes
Lock Style 7 degree
Valve Stem Seals Included Yes
Valve Stem Seal Style Viton® fluoroelastomer
Rocker Arm Studs Included Yes
Rocker Arm Nut Thread Size 3/8-24 in.
Rocker Arms Included No
Rocker Arm Nuts Included No
Guideplates Included Yes
Guideplate Pushrod Size 5/16 in.
Valve Cover Mounting Style Perimeter bolt
Accessory Bolt Holes Drilled Yes
Intake Valve Angle 23
Exhaust Valve Angle 23
Valve Guides Included Yes
Valve Guide Material Manganese bronze
Valve Seats Machined Yes
Valve Seat Machine Style 3-angle
Valve Seat Material Tungsten
Steam Holes Drilled No
Oiling Style Through pushrod
Machined for O-Ring No
Heat Crossover Yes
CARB EO Number D-369-16 (pdf)
To see a list of qualifying vehicles, enter CARB EO Number D-369-16
Quantity Sold as a pair.
Notes Will not fit centerbolt-style intake manifolds.

I hope this is a better head it was only $54.00 more.

I think $54 well spent.

I found a program that give you a computer dyno of your motor just put in the info and it there you are.
I don’t believe it 100% true but it gives me a ball park what I have built.
RPM’s.... 600.... 1100... 1600..... 2100..... 2600.... 3100...... 3600....... 4100..... 4600... 5100
TQ......... 256.... 308..... 327...... 341....... 381...... 391........ 419......... 427........ 425.... 385
Brk HP... 29.43.. 64.49.. 99.49.. 136.39.. 136...... 230.83... 287.16.... 333.54.... 371.... 374.

(Sorry about all the periods but this is the only way I could get things to line up.)

On the dyno program it though headers and long tube fuel injection so I thinking minus 25 HP or so for No headers and TPI system.

Bottom line is
Max TQ 427 at 4100
RPMs max HP 374 at 5100 RPM's

I like these new HP and Tourqe numbers alot more than the Old stock ones 230 HP and 330 TQ, I picked up 144 more HP and 97 TQ I can live with this.

Stock Number are in Red.

On the dyno program it though headers and long tube fuel injection so I thinking minus 25 HP or so for No headers and TPI system.

If you spin it past 5100 you'll see a little better.

I'm not a fan of simulators, I think this one is generous, but should be in the ball park.