I got new pads because my brakes were squeeking and now they still squeek albeit not as much but they still do.
The new ones are Hawk ceramics, I thought this would have taken care of the squeeking issue.

I got new pads because my brakes were squeeking and now they still squeek albeit not as much but they still do.
The new ones are Hawk ceramics, I thought this would have taken care of the squeeking issue.

Step on the brakes a few times HARD and it should go away, happened to mine and that's what I was told to do. Haven't had that problem again.

yeah, did you break them in the right way?

yeah, did you break them in the right way?

...and did you use anti-squeal compound on the back of them?

How are your rotors?

Just have to burn the glaze off of them.

Brake squeal is sometimes caused by the metal backing of the pads chattering rapidly on the caliper pins, causing them to squeal.
If the back of the pads are coated with anti squeal compound, and the caliper pins are properly lubricated the squealing should stop.

How are your rotors?

:iagree:

These are the same ones I use but I don't have any squeak at all. Did you apply a good amount of "Disc Brake Quiet" on the back of the pad where the piston meets the metal insert?? Did you remember to install the metal insert?? If yours doesn't have the insert then use a slightly thicker amount where the piston touches the pad ONLY. Do not slop it all over the place. Do not allow the DiSC Brake Quiet to get on the rotor. Also, use a little white litium grease on the pins if applicable. I don't know what year car you have so I'm putting this in just in case. The ceramic pads that you chose are pretty great.
Let me know if you have done what I have suggested and it doesn't work but it should.

I am not seeing how the back of the pad could be making the noise?

Trust me Y. They do. I've done a thousand brake jobs. What causes the noise is NOT the friction between the pad and the rotor. It is the friction between the PISTON and the PAD or PAD BACKING PLATE. The piston reverberates as the pedal is pushed which causes the piston to have intermittent contact with the plate (or pad if you don't have a plate). If you do what I say... You will NOT have any more squeak because from the sound of your last post...it appears that you DID NOT DO ANYTHING but slap a set of pads on the car which is a novice way of doing a minor brake job. Jack that baby up and pull the wheels, undo the two bolts and use a wire hanger to hold the caliper up so you don't allow the brake line to absorb all the caliper weight. REMOVE THE LID ON THE MASTER CYLANDER!!!!(so you don't blow out the master cylander or a propotioner valve when you press the pistons back into the caliper. Take a rag and put it around the master cylander so you don't have a mess when the brake fluid rises from pushing the piston(s) back in. Remove the pad from the PISTON SIDE of the caliper (noise maker) Take some BrakeClean and spray down the entire pad front and back. Not to worry as it is an evaporative.
If you have the silver plate between the piston and the pad, put some DISC BRAKE QUIET on the plate in a nice circle where the piston touches the plate...NOT ALL OVER THE PLACE. DON'T slop it on, just a nice layer of it should be fine..enough to cover the silver. (If you don't have the plate do EXACTLY what I just said but to the back of the pad. Let it dry for 15 minutes. Take a set of channel locks or clamp and slowly push the piston(s) back into the caliper. If you have 2 pistons then a second clamp or a second channel lock will keep the other piston from popping out while you push the other in. Install the pad (and/or the silver plate) back into the caliper making sure not to take the DISC BRAKE QUIET off of where it has been applied. Mount the Caliper over the rotor. ( If these are rear brakes then adjust the star on the parking brake cylander until the rotor is just able to go back on the car). Install wheel. If any brake fluid came over the top of the master cylander then top off with new brake fluid and reinstall the cover. Start the car and pump the brakes 10 times. Take the car for a ride and while backing up hit the brakes hard two times. Drive for a few minutes and notice your "QUIET BRAKES". Then pm me and Thank me for helping you get rid of your noise. Get on with your next problem in life. LOL!!!!!!
Regards

I thought that when you change your pads you are atleast supposed to resurface the rotors?

You only need to resurface your rotors if they are out of round. If you are driving down the road and you slowly apply your brakes and your steering wheel starts wobbling, then you need to turn the rotors. If not then there is no need. The rear wont give you a wobbly steering wheel but will not feel straight and smooth. If you feel normal smooth braking then you shouldn't need to cut the rotors. You can go to most parts houses and rent a micrometer to measure the minimum thickness of the rotor. The rotor states what the minimum thickness that is allowed. It is usually on the front in the center around the hole where it mounts to the spindle.

:iagree: b Usually you would get new pads if you get your rotors resurfaced.