Hi, My gauges are showing I have high oil pressure in my 2003 C5? My oil was just changed and I check it just for the sake of doing so and its all good? What could this be? Some sort of sensor? If so is where would that sensor be and whats the part # so I can get new one.

Thanks

I have a 2000 that also shows high oil pressure continously. After investigating the problem. The result was a bad oil sending unit. It is located under the intake at the back of the engine. Cost to replace at the dealership is $420.

Oil pressure sending unit. It is located just behind the intake. You can either remove the intake and change it or you can do the cut an access hole under the windshield wiper mod. (takes about an hour) once it's done if you ever have to change it again it's a 10 min job.:cheers:
The part is less then $50

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r117/tstar99/Repairs/trayremoved.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r117/tstar99/Repairs/cutting.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r117/tstar99/Repairs/done.jpg

Great support all of you! Thank you. Tstar by the looks of the photos this looks pretty easy? Is it? Hell for $50 dollar part, and this help here I think I will do the job.

Great support all of you! Thank you. Tstar by the looks of the photos this looks pretty easy? Is it? Hell for $50 dollar part, and this help here I think I will do the job.
Yes very easy compared to removing the intake... Send me your EMail and 'll send you the full doc.

BTW That's one scary damn avatar!:willy_nilly:

tstar can you e-mail the info on the oil sending unit access hole? hdbinc@sbcglobal.net thanks!
Mike G

tstar - I too must replace my oil pressure sensor, and would like to do it your way (access hole). Will you send me the full info on the fix?
sportivo1946@sbcglobal.net
Thanks - Bob S.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r117/tstar99/Repairs/trayremoved.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r117/tstar99/Repairs/cutting.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r117/tstar99/Repairs/done.jpg

thanks tstar great post that is what makes this forum so great:thumbsup3: :cheers: :cheers:

What was your pressure? Did I miss it somewhere?

Yes very easy compared to removing the intake... Send me your EMail and 'll send you the full doc.

BTW That's one scary damn avatar!:willy_nilly:

Would you mind shoot'n that my way too?

vertigo456@juno.com

I know this is old but it helped me out enough that I was able to figure it out. I did a full picture and write up that I will post up and hopefully we can have it as a DIY STICKY Thanks SMOKINVETTES


Pops

Better than the alternative!

I've done it both ways , cutting a hole and removing the intake.
I can r&r the intake in 20-25 minutes
The hole method reduces subsequent OPS changes to about 15 minutes.
Takes about 45 minutes to cut the hole and make a clean fill piece and seal

I used this and relocated away from all the heat. No longer an issue of replacing, http://www.totalperformanceengineering.com/product_info.php?products_id=1015

it's not heat that kills the sensor

it's not heat that kills the sensor
Sure it is!, the plastic was melted on my old one. and thats why the new replacement sensors are made from brass and not aluminum. Because they get so hot in that location.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r117/tstar99/Repairs/trayremoved.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r117/tstar99/Repairs/cutting.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r117/tstar99/Repairs/done.jpg

That is a great post, nice work! Wish I had known this when I replaced mine a few months back! I may do this mod anyways. Thanks for sharing!:thumbsup3:

I know this is old but it helped me out enough that I was able to figure it out. I did a full picture and write up that I will post up and hopefully we can have it as a DIY STICKY Thanks SMOKINVETTES


Pops

Good stuff Pops!

Sure it is!, the plastic was melted on my old one. and thats why the new replacement sensors are made from brass and not aluminum. Because they get so hot in that location.

:doh: a plastic OPS ?
never seen one and the stock one I pulled out was metal

I stand by my original statement

:doh: a plastic OPS ?
never seen one and the stock one I pulled out was metal

I stand by my original statement
not the sensor!!I SAID IT WAS ALUMINUM! the plastic connection on the top..have you even seen one before? the reason they fail is the heat causes the oil to leak into the electric component and shorts out. pull the snap connector off a failed sensor an you will most likely find oil on the connections.The newer replacement is brass.But the top is still plastic!

it's not heat that kills the sensor

I agree. It's usually over-torquing that kills them after they are replaced from the factory. It's crappy Mexico parts that fail from the factory. That plug that you are talking about is not plastic. Mine was in perfect shape and I have over 115,000 miles on my Vette. They don't melt, as you can see in the pictures below.

http://www.pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/ops53.jpg

http://www.pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/ops55.jpg

With all that said, I did a by the service manual write up on how to do this the right way. No hack job for my Vette. No offense to those who go this route but I want my Vette as pristine as possible. I also relocated mine so now the sensor is real easy to get to. Here's the DIY (http://www.smokinvette.com/corvetteforum/showthread.php?t=40599).

http://www.pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/ops65.jpg

http://www.pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/kyhorses2010_9.jpg

And why would you bother to relocate for easy access to replace next time..if the reason they fail is overtightening.? Surely you would not overtighten! I have removed 4 on different cars, ..and all 4 were leaking oil into the plug in because the internal seal was overheated, not because the factory overtightened.why do you think these have to be replaced more than once? Every one simply overtightens ? Even the originals from the factory? I relocated mine and have never had any more problem....The plug in in your own picture is covered in oil.

And why would you bother to relocate for easy access to replace next time..if the reason they fail is overtightening.? Surely you would not overtighten!

Reading is fundamental. What I said is ONE of the reasons that they fail is because of over-tightening. The OTHER reason is cheap, made in Mexico parts. Since I don't know where mine was manufactured, I am not taking a chance. That's why I relocated it.

I have removed 4 on different cars, ..and all 4 were leaking oil into the plug in because the internal seal was overheated, not because the factory overtightened.why do you think these have to be replaced more than once? Every one simply overtightens ?

Do you have one shred of technical data that proves this? If so, post it. I do as to what I'm stating and he's a ASE Certified World Class Technician. You've changed 4. He's probably done 4000. Now that may not mean anything to you but until GM starts paying you to travel the Corvette circuit and give seminars on these cars, I think I will listen to him.

Even the originals from the factory? I relocated mine and have never had any more problem....The plug in in your own picture is covered in oil.

Which you have not proven that heat has caused that failure. Post your proof where you have done the studies and put out a technical paper that explains these findings. I'm dying to read it.

Reading is fundamental. What I said is ONE of the reasons that they fail is because of over-tightening. The OTHER reason is cheap, made in Mexico parts. Since I don't know where mine was manufactured, I am not taking a chance. That's why I relocated it.



Do you have one shred of technical data that proves this? If so, post it. I do as to what I'm stating and he's a ASE Certified World Class Technician. You've changed 4. He's probably done 4000. Now that may not mean anything to you but until GM starts paying you to travel the Corvette circuit and give seminars on these cars, I think I will listen to him.



Which you have not proven that heat has caused that failure. Post your proof where you have done the studies and put out a technical paper that explains these findings. I'm dying to read it.
Where is your documentation from a GM bulletin that overtightening is why they fail?You have no more proof than I, other than personal observation..the oil in the connector, is all I need to prove it to me, you explain why the seal is leaking!.. ..Once again, you and I disagree, ..this is no different from you thinking that a larger radiator makes a motor run too cold....you have no proof of that either..so lets just agree to disagree, and move on.. I have my opinion, you have yours..LET IT GO!

You can run but you can't hide. My opinion is based on a certified GM technician's "real world" experience, coupled with common sense. So was my thoughts on the bigger radiator. You need to read some more threads. There's a ton of information posted on all the Corvette forums. Try visiting more than one, including Paul Koerner's (http://corvettemechanic.com/forum/) board. You'll end up with the correct scoop instead of your SWAG theories.

You can run but you can't hide. My opinion is based on a certified GM technician's "real world" experience, coupled with common sense. So was my thoughts on the bigger radiator. You need to read some more threads. There's a ton of information posted on all the Corvette forums. Try visiting more than one, including Paul Koerner's (http://corvettemechanic.com/forum/) board. You'll end up with the correct scoop instead of your SWAG theories.
I may not have read as many articles in Popular Mechanics as you , BUT, I spent 15 years working in an auto repair shop, I don t need to "ask my mechanic" as you do.. then base my opinion on what he says... And any first year mechanic knows that its the thermostat that controls minimum engine temp. NOT THE SIZE OF THE RADIATOR! Ask your own mechanic.! Tell him your theory of it making the engine run too cold! When he stops laughing, he can explain the function of the THERMOSTAT! Once again I say let it go

I may not have read as many articles in Popular Mechanics as you , BUT, I spent 15 years working in an auto repair shop, I don t need to "ask my mechanic" as you do.. then base my opinion on what he says... And any first year mechanic knows that its the thermostat that controls minimum engine temp. NOT THE SIZE OF THE RADIATOR! Ask your own mechanic.! Tell him your theory of it making the engine run too cold! When he stops laughing, he can explain the function of the THERMOSTAT! Once again I say let it go

That's funny, you take your theory and flip around and state that's what I said. Son, you ain't worth my time. Fifteen years as a mechanic and you've changed 4 EOP sensors. I've been leaving finger dig stains in my underwear longer than you've been turning screws. Yea, you know what you're talking about. :thumbsup:

It is not overtorquing that causes them to fail. Junkman, yours failed after 115,000 miles but it was torqued at the factory. Even you should be able to understand that how it was torqued did not cause it to fail years later. They fail because of being exposed to heat, pressure and vibration over time, and also, some of them were just poorly made. When mine quit I moved it to the front of the engine on the driver side which is a very cool location and have never had a problem again, but if I did I could swap it out in 5 minutes...
Junkman, your relocation looks like crap(non-oem) but your sensor will probably never fail again because it is in a much cooler spot. Only thing about yours is it is not brass and I think that the best new replacements have brass housings, mine does. http://www.kragen.com/productdetail.aspx?MfrCode=BOR&MfrPartNumber=S4202&PartType=417&PTSet=A

That's funny, you take your theory and flip around and state that's what I said. Son, you ain't worth my time. Fifteen years as a mechanic and you've changed 4 EOP sensors. I've been leaving finger dig stains in my underwear longer than you've been turning screws. Yea, you know what you're talking about. :thumbsup:
I never said it was the last 15 years, maybe you shouldn t make assumptions ..I ve replaced the sensors since I sold my shop.And you claim 4000 sensors replaced on C5 s ? Are there really 4000 C5 s in your town? WOW! They ve only been around 12 years, thats 334 sensors a year ,or is that 334 cars and you ve replaced 12 times on each one cause you overtighten them.? You pretend to be an authority on all things automotive , but yet your own post says it took you 5 days to relocate your sensor! Its a 1 hr job! And , in another post you say you are no mechanic by any means, yet you insist you know everything! You have never even worked in a repair shop. You read alot! So what? You know very little! Maybe because you spend all your time digging in your underwear!..And I will say no more on this.

It is not overtorquing that causes them to fail. Junkman, yours failed after 115,000 miles but it was torqued at the factory. Even you should be able to understand that how it was torqued did not cause it to fail years later. They fail because of being exposed to heat, pressure and vibration over time, and also, some of them were just poorly made. When mine quit I moved it to the front of the engine on the driver side which is a very cool location and have never had a problem again, but if I did I could swap it out in 5 minutes...
Junkman, your relocation looks like crap(non-oem) but your sensor will probably never fail again because it is in a much cooler spot. Only thing about yours is it is not brass and I think that the best new replacements have brass housings, mine does. http://www.kragen.com/productdetail.aspx?MfrCode=BOR&MfrPartNumber=S4202&PartType=417&PTSet=A

From looking at the picture, how can you tell what the sensor is made of? I'm curious to know. Also, I never said why mine failed, I just know it did, over two years ago. It also started leaking oil, something you said it wouldn't do. As far as it looking like crap, that's just you being you. I wouldn't expect anything less.

I never said it was the last 15 years, maybe you shouldn t make assumptions ..I ve replaced the sensors since I sold my shop.And you claim 4000 sensors replaced on C5 s ? Are there really 4000 C5 s in your town? WOW! They ve only been around 12 years, thats 334 sensors a year ,or is that 334 cars and you ve replaced 12 times on each one cause you overtighten them.? You pretend to be an authority on all things automotive , but yet your own post says it took you 5 days to relocate your sensor! Its a 1 hr job! And , in another post you say you are no mechanic by any means, yet you insist you know everything! You have never even worked in a repair shop. You read alot! So what? You know very little! Maybe because you spend all your time digging in your underwear!..And I will say no more on this.

Again, reading is fundamental. It took me 2 days and the service manual calls for 1.75 hours. But hey, you twist things to your favor so I'm not surprised. Have fun boys. :seeya:

I wanted to ad that I just did repair "By cutting a hole through the cowl" Sorry Junkman....But I wanted to ad some pics of where to exactly to cut the hole. The picture posted really helped but i'm sure other people are like me hoping that I cut in the right place. My hole could have been moved in to the center of the car a half inch more but it did work. Thats why I am posting these pictures in hope of making it easier for other people to do. [/IMG][/URL]

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us) http://img571.imageshack.us/img571/8591/1151510.jpg (http://img571.imageshack.us/i/1151510.jpg/) http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/289/1151509.jpg (http://img706.imageshack.us/i/1151509.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

Junkman, if you can not tell that a sensor body is made of aluminum or brass by looking at it you need to open your eyes wider:happy0045: Also, I never said that these sensors do not leak, what I said on an earlier thread is mine failed but it does not leak so I just left it in when I relocated my sendor to the driver side front of the engine. I was able to fish the connector off of it without removing the manifold or cutting up the car and it only took a couple of minutes. If it ever does leak then I will take it out and put the plug in that came out of the other tap.........:thumbsup:Also, I like to keep my engine bay clean looking and original so when I see something like what you did it just turns me off:DeadHorse:

That's funny, you take your theory and flip around and state that's what I said. Son, you ain't worth my time. Fifteen years as a mechanic and you've changed 4 EOP sensors. I've been leaving finger dig stains in my underwear longer than you've been turning screws. Yea, you know what you're talking about. :thumbsup:

:coffeetime:

:coffeetime:

When are we going fishing in that boat??? :D

Hi, My gauges are showing I have high oil pressure in my 2003 C5? My oil was just changed and I check it just for the sake of doing so and its all good? What could this be? Some sort of sensor? If so is where would that sensor be and whats the part # so I can get new one.

Thanks

i had the same problem mine was pegged i jst removed the intake went a lot easier than i thought it might also gave me a chance to really clean the intake

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r117/tstar99/Repairs/trayremoved.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r117/tstar99/Repairs/cutting.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r117/tstar99/Repairs/done.jpg

Nice post Tim.

When are we going fishing in that boat??? :D I love that "fishing" you mean trolling :beerbang: :thumbsup: whenever you have a free weekend junkman, trust me you will need a little recovery time also! send me a pm when you have time we will do this

I wanted to ad that I just did repair "By cutting a hole through the cowl" Sorry Junkman....But I wanted to ad some pics of where to exactly to cut the hole. The picture posted really helped but i'm sure other people are like me hoping that I cut in the right place. My hole could have been moved in to the center of the car a half inch more but it did work. Thats why I am posting these pictures in hope of making it easier for other people to do. [/IMG][/URL]

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us) http://img571.imageshack.us/img571/8591/1151510.jpg (http://img571.imageshack.us/i/1151510.jpg/) http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/289/1151509.jpg (http://img706.imageshack.us/i/1151509.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

:cheers::rockon6rk::rockon6rk:

Dang Guys I get a pm saying WTF did you do I said WTF do you mean and here I am 4 pages later going WTF just so you all know it didnt help replacing mine it didnt work anyway cuz after I replaced it ran the car for about 30 sec. and BAM Thier goes my motor and the good thing about all this is Daddy gets a new forged LS6 Motor a set of Linginfelter heads new torque tube. Down side its going to take 4 weeks to get her back together.

Pops

Here is my .02 why it failed NAFTA not made in the U.S.A :rofl:

Dang Guys I get a pm saying WTF did you do I said WTF do you mean and here I am 4 pages later going WTF just so you all know it didnt help replacing mine it didnt work anyway cuz after I replaced it ran the car for about 30 sec. and BAM Thier goes my motor and the good thing about all this is Daddy gets a new forged LS6 Motor a set of Linginfelter heads new torque tube. Down side its going to take 4 weeks to get her back together.

Pops

Here is my .02 why it failed NAFTA not made in the U.S.A :rofl:

Damn!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My oil pressure sender saga:
I bought my C5 about a year ago. When I test drove it before buying it, the oil pressure gage was pegged. I asked the owner to have it checked. The sender was bad and it cost him $500 to have the dealer replace it. Three weeks and 1500 miles after I bought it, it went out again. I took it back to the dealer that replaced it and they replaced it for free for me (great dealer, didn't even mention me paying for it). After a couple hours, they came out and said it was done. Then they said the new one failed while they were driving it out of the shop, so I waited another couple hours. That one lasted 14,000 miles, then went erratic on a vacation trip on the way home. This time I replaced it with another GM unit by cutting the hole in the cowl (great time-saver, BTW, thanks). That one lasted 2500 miles, then, while visiting my in-laws last weekend, the pressure dropped to zero while running about 80MPH. After stopping and restarting the engine, it showed erratic pressures, varying from 20 to 80 not dependent on engine speed, so I assumed it was the sender again. Being out in BFE, I called a NAPA store and they had one. When I got there, I was surprised to see it was a brass bodied one. I had to buy a socket, too, since my Mother-in-law didn't have one in her kitchen toolbox. Hopefully, I hit the jackpot with the brass sender and won't have to replace it again. Including the original, this car is on it's 6th oil pressure sender. Just in case some of you may never get the chance to see a brass-bodied oil pressure sender, here's one (they really do exist): :happy0045:
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k240/kswartout/DSC049931.jpg
Here's the box it came in, in case some of you want to haunt your local NAPA store looking for one:http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k240/kswartout/DSC04999.jpg

I've had 2 brass ones go bad and now am about to do a aluminum. I didn't do the hack install (cutting up the firewall), I did the relocate so that the repair would be a lot easier and quicker. Thus, it looks like brass or aluminum, they all suck. That's why I'm glad I did the relocate.

Here's my writeup (http://www.smokinvette.com/corvetteforum/showthread.php?t=40599) on the installation.

http://www.pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/ops64.jpg

http://www.pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/ops65.jpg

http://www.pc-surgeon.net/images/cforum/kyhorses2010_9.jpg

Thus, it looks like brass or aluminum, they all suck.
Well, damn! I guess if this one goes, I'll do a relocate, then carry a spare and a couple of wrenches.

Well, damn! I guess if this one goes, I'll do a relocate, then carry a spare and a couple of wrenches.

Yep, that's what I do. They are some big *** wrenches and you won't use them for much else.