powerlabs
10-05-2009, 06:34 PM
This install itself is very simple; the factory brackets are removed via 2 bolts, then the calipers themselves are removed from the brackets by 2 more bolts. I recommend first removing the calipers via the two smaller bolts, then removing the brackets themselves via the large bolts. You will need a breaker bar for this.
http://www.powerlabs.org/images/c6/caliperbracket.JPG
Once they are off, remove the brake line (MAKE SURE YOU NEVER HANG A BRAKE CALIPER BY THE BRAKE LINE), the bleeder nipple, and the sliding pistons, and transfer everyting over.
Make sure to apply liberal amounts of brake caliper lube to the sliding pistons that go inside the bracket, and also the the brake pad corners. Use blue locktite on the bolts (your LIFE depends on them never coming off) and tighten them with a proper torque wrench. Its 100ft-lbs on the large bolts and 37 ft-lbs on the smaller ones. I do the brake lines and the nipple by feel (you can tell when it is right; too tight and you will shear the banjo bolt as it is hollow and has a hole through it).
Also apply anti squeal compound to the back of your brake pads. I did and now my Z51 brakes are completely quiet.
Finally, make sure you bleed the system thoroughly as a lot of air will be caught up inside it since the powdercoated calipers come dry. You should re-bleed it later to ensure all air gets out of the system.
The rears in:
http://www.powerlabs.org/images/c6/rearbrakes.JPG
The fronts:
http://www.powerlabs.org/images/c6/frontbrakes.JPG
Notice I also installed stainless steel brake lines:
http://www.powerlabs.org/images/c6/sslines.JPG
The lines themselves are high quality, with a plastic coating that prevents them from working dirt in between the steel strands or rubbing up against (and damaging) suspension components.
Installing the brake lines requires unbolting them from the rear connection; the easiest way to do this is with a ratcheting wrench. It is not easy since there is little room to work with. To get the new one into the little bracket it screws on to, you need to place a screwdriver against the nut and hit it with a hammer; this becomes obvious when you try to push it in and find out it doesn't fit.
It was a PIA of a job, but the lines did stiffen up my brake pedal feel. The factory lines are made of rubber and expand somewhat when you hit the brakes.
http://www.powerlabs.org/images/c6/postbrakes1.JPG
http://www.powerlabs.org/images/c6/postbrakes2.JPG
http://www.powerlabs.org/images/c6/caliperbracket.JPG
Once they are off, remove the brake line (MAKE SURE YOU NEVER HANG A BRAKE CALIPER BY THE BRAKE LINE), the bleeder nipple, and the sliding pistons, and transfer everyting over.
Make sure to apply liberal amounts of brake caliper lube to the sliding pistons that go inside the bracket, and also the the brake pad corners. Use blue locktite on the bolts (your LIFE depends on them never coming off) and tighten them with a proper torque wrench. Its 100ft-lbs on the large bolts and 37 ft-lbs on the smaller ones. I do the brake lines and the nipple by feel (you can tell when it is right; too tight and you will shear the banjo bolt as it is hollow and has a hole through it).
Also apply anti squeal compound to the back of your brake pads. I did and now my Z51 brakes are completely quiet.
Finally, make sure you bleed the system thoroughly as a lot of air will be caught up inside it since the powdercoated calipers come dry. You should re-bleed it later to ensure all air gets out of the system.
The rears in:
http://www.powerlabs.org/images/c6/rearbrakes.JPG
The fronts:
http://www.powerlabs.org/images/c6/frontbrakes.JPG
Notice I also installed stainless steel brake lines:
http://www.powerlabs.org/images/c6/sslines.JPG
The lines themselves are high quality, with a plastic coating that prevents them from working dirt in between the steel strands or rubbing up against (and damaging) suspension components.
Installing the brake lines requires unbolting them from the rear connection; the easiest way to do this is with a ratcheting wrench. It is not easy since there is little room to work with. To get the new one into the little bracket it screws on to, you need to place a screwdriver against the nut and hit it with a hammer; this becomes obvious when you try to push it in and find out it doesn't fit.
It was a PIA of a job, but the lines did stiffen up my brake pedal feel. The factory lines are made of rubber and expand somewhat when you hit the brakes.
http://www.powerlabs.org/images/c6/postbrakes1.JPG
http://www.powerlabs.org/images/c6/postbrakes2.JPG