powerlabs
09-24-2009, 08:33 PM
I lent my neighbor a hand at installing his B&B Short Tube Headers. The install was *considerably* more involved than the "3 hours" the instructions manual (all one page of it :lol: ) claim, so I figured I'd do a quick write up to help out anyone else planning this mod.
Having done headers on my own car (a C6), I figured this would be as easy as that was; when I installed Kooks 1 3/4 long tube headers with a catted X-Pipe on my C6 (http://www.smokinvette.com/corvetteforum/showthread.php?p=292471#post292471), all I had to do was take a good look at how the factory headers bolted on, and then spend no more than 5 hours removing everything and assembling the complete Kooks system. I did a write up on that install which you can find on the C6 forum here:
That was not the case. I tried to work around certain items only to find out they absolutely did have to come out. I will do the write up the correct way.
Also, note that VetteWeb has a decent write up with pictures (http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/0501vet_b_and_b_performance_exhaust/index.html) that you can refer to as well.
Before we began, all exhaust bolts were sprayed with "PB Blaster"; exhaust bolts are notorious for seizing and this usually helps prevent that. Despite the PB blaster we still HAD to shear off one of the bottom flange bolts (luckily they are not reused on this install). I imagine we would have sheared more if we hadn't done that.
First and foremost, remove the following (they all have to come off before the headers will come out of the car, so you may as well do it now while the car is on the ground):
Engine covers (the pop right out)
All plug wires (they can be VERY hard to remove from the block. Be sure not to pull from the wire. On some I had to use a screwdriver as a prybar from underneath the car to pop them off. Others required careful use of pliers on the rubber boot).
Coil packs (4 bolts and a plug)
Alternator (1 wire, a plug, and 2 bolts. Have a friend use a prybar with a socket on the belt tensioner (which is at the passenger side end of the accesories belt) so you can get the belt off before you try to pull the 2 bolts that hold the alternator in place).
Dipstick (1 bolt)
Drivers side EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve. Pull that whole sucker off. This requires you to unbolt the flange that holds it into the headers, then undo the hose clips at both ends of its hoses and pull the hoses off.
Also pop the vacuum hose off the brake vacuum reservoir and pull it out of the way.
NOW you can begin.
We started with the drivers side. Once everything is out of the way, you can use a 10mm wrench with an extension to get the bolts out of the way... Except for one:
http://www.powerlabs.org/images/c5/c5headers%20(1).JPG
(Look carefully at where the wrench is attached to).
We called that the "bitch bolt". It was UNREAL. That little sucker is holding the end of the drivers side header, closest to the firewall. No wrench would fit in there; it is against the firewall, underneath the windshield, next to the brake vacuum reservoir and the header itself. There is literally NO space for your hands to fit in there,and about 1/2" of wrench travel. It sucked.
Those bolts removed, you can now move on to the passenger side. That is considerably easier. The one thing to watch out for on both sides is that there is a bolt underneath the EGR flange that is hard to spot. You can see it here:
http://www.powerlabs.org/images/c5/c5headers%20(10).JPG
Make sure you remove that one too... Otherwise the headers won't come off ;)
Now that both headers are lose off the engine, jack the front of the car up and support it safely by two jackstands. The headers come out from the top, so the height you need here is whatever it takes for you to be comfortable underneath the car.
For this install we supported the front end of the car by two jackstands on the engine crossmember, and then left the 3 ton hydraulic jack on the center of the crossmember. You can never be too safe.
I will add here that I found it VERY uncomfortable to be working pushed up against the wheels, and eventually had to remove the passenger side wheel to get that side in. I would also recommend removing both front wheels to make the job easier.
Now you can crawl underneath the car and disconnect the O2 sensor from its harness. You should also remove the O2 sensors, but I found this impossible with the wrench I had. A different wrench might have done the trick, but I just pulled them out with the headers.
Once the O2s are disconnected, undo the 3 bolt flange that bolts the factory headers to the factory catalytic converter. The headers are now free. Carefully pull them out from the top of the car.
http://www.powerlabs.org/images/c5/c5headers%20(2).JPG
Now I removed the O2 sensor from the factory headers, carefully applied anti-seize to its threads (making SURE not to get any on the sensor itself; this will destroy the sensor), and torqued them both down to the new headers. The shorties slide right in to the car.
The factory gasket can be re-used. Make sure to carefully scrape off any residue from it and the heads beforehand though. Also, clean the header bolts and apply a dab of anti-seize to them. Now you can bolt the headers on.
The easiest way to do that is having someone hold the headers while you get the bolts started. Make sure to start every bolt by hand so no cross threading occurs. Don't tighten them in all the way before doing the bottom flange.
Once all header bolts have been started, go underneath the car again and re-connect the O2 sensor plug, then tighten the 3 flange bolts. I found that I could start the drivers side by hand, but getting the passenger side bolts in required me to carefully push the exhaust up with a car jack untill both side mated. I then torqued all flange bolts to 35 ft-lbs. Now the car can be lowered.
With the car back on the ground, carefully torque the top header bolts from the center, moving outwards, to 15 ft-lbs.
Then re-install the coil packs, alternator and EGR valve:
http://www.powerlabs.org/images/c5/c5headers%20(9).JPG
On the passenger side, you will find that the dipstick flange hits the header. Use a file or a dremel tool to shave the flange down by about 1/8". I used a dremel and it took a few seconds. It will now bolt right up:
http://www.powerlabs.org/images/c5/c5headers%20(12).JPG
Re-install the valve covers,
http://www.powerlabs.org/images/c5/c5headers%20(14).JPG
Now we re-installed the wheels, lowered the car (we didn't before so getting any bolts we dropped to the floor would be easier) and torqued the lug nuts to 100ft-lbs. Double checked everything and fired it up. You will notice a LOT of smoke as the PB blaster, anti seize and any other oils burn off.
Having done headers on my own car (a C6), I figured this would be as easy as that was; when I installed Kooks 1 3/4 long tube headers with a catted X-Pipe on my C6 (http://www.smokinvette.com/corvetteforum/showthread.php?p=292471#post292471), all I had to do was take a good look at how the factory headers bolted on, and then spend no more than 5 hours removing everything and assembling the complete Kooks system. I did a write up on that install which you can find on the C6 forum here:
That was not the case. I tried to work around certain items only to find out they absolutely did have to come out. I will do the write up the correct way.
Also, note that VetteWeb has a decent write up with pictures (http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/0501vet_b_and_b_performance_exhaust/index.html) that you can refer to as well.
Before we began, all exhaust bolts were sprayed with "PB Blaster"; exhaust bolts are notorious for seizing and this usually helps prevent that. Despite the PB blaster we still HAD to shear off one of the bottom flange bolts (luckily they are not reused on this install). I imagine we would have sheared more if we hadn't done that.
First and foremost, remove the following (they all have to come off before the headers will come out of the car, so you may as well do it now while the car is on the ground):
Engine covers (the pop right out)
All plug wires (they can be VERY hard to remove from the block. Be sure not to pull from the wire. On some I had to use a screwdriver as a prybar from underneath the car to pop them off. Others required careful use of pliers on the rubber boot).
Coil packs (4 bolts and a plug)
Alternator (1 wire, a plug, and 2 bolts. Have a friend use a prybar with a socket on the belt tensioner (which is at the passenger side end of the accesories belt) so you can get the belt off before you try to pull the 2 bolts that hold the alternator in place).
Dipstick (1 bolt)
Drivers side EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve. Pull that whole sucker off. This requires you to unbolt the flange that holds it into the headers, then undo the hose clips at both ends of its hoses and pull the hoses off.
Also pop the vacuum hose off the brake vacuum reservoir and pull it out of the way.
NOW you can begin.
We started with the drivers side. Once everything is out of the way, you can use a 10mm wrench with an extension to get the bolts out of the way... Except for one:
http://www.powerlabs.org/images/c5/c5headers%20(1).JPG
(Look carefully at where the wrench is attached to).
We called that the "bitch bolt". It was UNREAL. That little sucker is holding the end of the drivers side header, closest to the firewall. No wrench would fit in there; it is against the firewall, underneath the windshield, next to the brake vacuum reservoir and the header itself. There is literally NO space for your hands to fit in there,and about 1/2" of wrench travel. It sucked.
Those bolts removed, you can now move on to the passenger side. That is considerably easier. The one thing to watch out for on both sides is that there is a bolt underneath the EGR flange that is hard to spot. You can see it here:
http://www.powerlabs.org/images/c5/c5headers%20(10).JPG
Make sure you remove that one too... Otherwise the headers won't come off ;)
Now that both headers are lose off the engine, jack the front of the car up and support it safely by two jackstands. The headers come out from the top, so the height you need here is whatever it takes for you to be comfortable underneath the car.
For this install we supported the front end of the car by two jackstands on the engine crossmember, and then left the 3 ton hydraulic jack on the center of the crossmember. You can never be too safe.
I will add here that I found it VERY uncomfortable to be working pushed up against the wheels, and eventually had to remove the passenger side wheel to get that side in. I would also recommend removing both front wheels to make the job easier.
Now you can crawl underneath the car and disconnect the O2 sensor from its harness. You should also remove the O2 sensors, but I found this impossible with the wrench I had. A different wrench might have done the trick, but I just pulled them out with the headers.
Once the O2s are disconnected, undo the 3 bolt flange that bolts the factory headers to the factory catalytic converter. The headers are now free. Carefully pull them out from the top of the car.
http://www.powerlabs.org/images/c5/c5headers%20(2).JPG
Now I removed the O2 sensor from the factory headers, carefully applied anti-seize to its threads (making SURE not to get any on the sensor itself; this will destroy the sensor), and torqued them both down to the new headers. The shorties slide right in to the car.
The factory gasket can be re-used. Make sure to carefully scrape off any residue from it and the heads beforehand though. Also, clean the header bolts and apply a dab of anti-seize to them. Now you can bolt the headers on.
The easiest way to do that is having someone hold the headers while you get the bolts started. Make sure to start every bolt by hand so no cross threading occurs. Don't tighten them in all the way before doing the bottom flange.
Once all header bolts have been started, go underneath the car again and re-connect the O2 sensor plug, then tighten the 3 flange bolts. I found that I could start the drivers side by hand, but getting the passenger side bolts in required me to carefully push the exhaust up with a car jack untill both side mated. I then torqued all flange bolts to 35 ft-lbs. Now the car can be lowered.
With the car back on the ground, carefully torque the top header bolts from the center, moving outwards, to 15 ft-lbs.
Then re-install the coil packs, alternator and EGR valve:
http://www.powerlabs.org/images/c5/c5headers%20(9).JPG
On the passenger side, you will find that the dipstick flange hits the header. Use a file or a dremel tool to shave the flange down by about 1/8". I used a dremel and it took a few seconds. It will now bolt right up:
http://www.powerlabs.org/images/c5/c5headers%20(12).JPG
Re-install the valve covers,
http://www.powerlabs.org/images/c5/c5headers%20(14).JPG
Now we re-installed the wheels, lowered the car (we didn't before so getting any bolts we dropped to the floor would be easier) and torqued the lug nuts to 100ft-lbs. Double checked everything and fired it up. You will notice a LOT of smoke as the PB blaster, anti seize and any other oils burn off.