Anyone have tools, ideas, or non-stock parts that work good?
I know checking the rear diff. lube is a pain. Someone used Visegrips on my fill plug before I got it. A 3/8 allen wrench is too short if the plug is really tight, a ratchet & allen socket won't fit up there. Take a allen wrench, cut off a 2 inch piece, & find the longest 3/8 wrench(12 or 6 point). Weld the allen to the wrench, just try welding alittle at atime so you don't change the temper or hardness of the tools.
Most aftermarket SBC heads have 1/2 pipe plug threads, for the coolant senser/ fan switch, I found a fan switch that turns on at 210*, off at 190*, but here's the rub, its a ford part. It's a 2 wire switch, so you have to ground one of the wires. It is a WELLS SW532 switch, the SW531 switch comes on even sooner.
Turning over a SBC at the crank bolt is risky, unless you have low compression/high leak down rate. The bolt is small to do that unless you remove the sparkplugs. PROFORM 66782 is a tool that bolts on to the 3 outer bolts , like a flange. But you still have to remove bolts to use it. I found some studs at a MIDAS store, 3/8 fine on one end, small shoulder in the middle, & 3/8 coarse on the other end. I threaded (lock tighted also) 3/8 fine nuts & tight fitting washers on the studs, make sure the length is the same as you orginal bolts. Put the studs in, now all you have to put on the crank turning tool on w/ 3 nuts. I don't recomned keeping it on there all the time, so I just wire 3 nuts to the tool & keep it in a toolbox.

Good tips, all. All the SBC heads I've run across recently have 3/8th" NPT threads. I can't document it, but written into my GM, Corvette, parts book is GM part number 3053190, (Blue Streak Part number TS136) Fan "On" at 200° and "Off" at 185°. The temps would be better if they were 10° higher, but if this helps anyone...

When I want to rotate my engine, I always try to arrange to do it when the belt is on. Then I use a 13/16" socket on the alternator pulley retaining nut. The difference in pulley sizes provides a little "gear" reduction that slows the turning , but makes it easier to turn.

RACE ON!!!

Did you ever see those extended Roloc (3m) cleaning discs tools? Well you can make your own.
Take the longest 1/4'' bolt you can find, cut to any length. Use a 3/8'' straight tube(fuel line) as a handle over the 1/4'' bolt. On the threaded end, use a nut & washer to lock the Roloc holder in place. Now chuck it into a diegrinder & hold the tubing to guide the cleaning disc.
I also use the angle diegrinder w/ the Roloc to spin up belt driven components, to single out a bearing noise. Its alittle hard on the disc though, but it will spin them up fast.
If you do alot of small fasteners (working on dash boards, heater cores, light engine work), I found that that little Skil cordless ratchet is a great time saver, not strong but very handy. I used one for about a year, everyday I worked, it was used for something. I did wear it out, but it is a good tool.

When diagnosing a "wrong key" (vats pellet) in a car I bought, I used a $2.65 variable resistor from Radio Shack, to simulate and find the proper resistor pellet for the car in question. That is one recent one that I can think of. Cheap. Effective.

Something that I use ALL THE TIME, is my Snap-On cordless impact. The thing has balls lasts for ever, and no hose! I thought they were a joke when they first came out. Then I tried one. Next, I bought one. Awesome tool.

I'm a Kubota mechanic and I promise nearly everyday we have to make some sort of special tool for something cause special tools through Kubota is a little rediculously priced and often lost. Making tools is almost a must for any kind of mechanic shop.

I see that USA Tool Warehouse has the OTC fuel injector cleaning tool for around $90.00. All other places start at $135 & up. The tools # is OTC-7448. You'll need the fitting for the fuel rail, #OTC-7430, thats where they get you. It's $32-$35. That fitting works on 85 & up vettes. Crossfires do not have a schrader valve, so you could use this tee adapter #OTC-518480 ($13.00) at the fuel filter lines.
You can use Sea-Foam, OTC cleaner, BG-44K, or anything similar to them. Anyone who works on their vette should have this, it's going on my X-mas list.

That fitting works on 85 & up vettes. Crossfires do not have a schrader valve, so you could use this tee adapter #OTC-518480 ($13.00) at the fuel filter lines.
Also, One can add a Schrader valve to their Crossfire fuel system. It really makes checking the fuel pressure much more convenient.

RACE ON!!!

Owning an industrial shop with every tool ever made and a mechanic that can make tools if needed.:beerbang:

Good tips, all. All the SBC heads I've run across recently have 3/8th" NPT threads. I can't document it, but written into my GM, Corvette, parts book is GM part number 3053190, (Blue Streak Part number TS136) Fan "On" at 200° and "Off" at 185°. The temps would be better if they were 10° higher, but if this helps anyone...

When I want to rotate my engine, I always try to arrange to do it when the belt is on. Then I use a 13/16" socket on the alternator pulley retaining nut. The difference in pulley sizes provides a little "gear" reduction that slows the turning , but makes it easier to turn.

RACE ON!!!


Right on! I also use the alternator's 15/16" nut to turn the engine over. With about a 2-1/2 to 1 gear reduction, the engine turns over quite easily. Too risky to use the crankshaft bolt, and it's pretty hard to get to anyway. And small block Chevrolets have used 3/8" pipe threads for many years in their cylinder heads. Since the early 70's I believe.

The C4 factory repair manual list all the custom Kent Moore tools GM has commissioned for repairing the proprietary parts used on the Vette.
When I had my C4, I made a list of those tools and regularly shopped eBay and other sources for bargains on them.

Hi TOOBROKETORETIRE, the heads I was talkin about are the aftermarket alum. heads. I have a set of trick flow 23*, 1/2'' pipe threads for the coolant senser & fan switch. I could not get the oem fan switch to work w/ an adapter (erratic operation). The coolant senser worked ok but not the fan switch. I think the adapter pulled the probe out of the coolant flow too much.
As far as the crank bolt deal, I've got gapless rings, the engine is very sealed up(215-230 psi cranking comp). Plus if your doing work on it, you might not have the belt on anyways.
Someone should do post on how to add a schrader valve to a crossfire fuel line. I know the CFI uses double flare 45* lines, but I have the saginaw (o-ring tbi & tpi) lines, & the tool to make those flares, I use the adapter in the actron CP7817 fuel press. tester. The stupid thing is that the adapter doesn't have the traditional GM schrader valve, it's bigger diameter & different threads.

Hi TOOBROKETORETIRE, the heads I was talkin about are the aftermarket alum. heads. I have a set of trick flow 23*, 1/2'' pipe threads for the coolant senser & fan switch. I could not get the oem fan switch to work w/ an adapter (erratic operation). The coolant senser worked ok but not the fan switch. I think the adapter pulled the probe out of the coolant flow too much.
I agree on the 3/8" pipe threads in the factory heads. A friend has Edelbrock aluminum heads and they have 1/2" NPT threads with 3/8" - 1/2" bushings. We had trouble getting the temp gauge to read accurately, so we stopped by Radio Shack and picked up an appropriate resister.



As far as the crank bolt deal, I've got gapless rings, the engine is very sealed up(215-230 psi cranking comp). Plus if your doing work on it, you might not have the belt on anyways.
That is why I said, "I always try to arrange to do it when the belt is on.". It doesn't always work out that way, but I try to plan ahead, when I can. That is an awful lot of cranking compression. I imagine you have an "economy" cam. Unless something is worn or broken, the cylinder cranking pressure is more a function of cam timing than the compression ratio or cylinder leakage.



Someone should do post on how to add a schrader valve to a crossfire fuel line. I know the CFI uses double flare 45* lines, but I have the saginaw (o-ring tbi & tpi) lines, & the tool to make those flares, I use the adapter in the actron CP7817 fuel press. tester. The stupid thing is that the adapter doesn't have the traditional GM schrader valve, it's bigger diameter & different threads.
It is easy, really, intuitive. It doesn't matter how a line attaches to the TB. And you can place it anywhere you like, as long as it is before the fuel pressure regulator in the rear TB. On my car, I simply cut the line between the TBs. I then double flared the ends of the tubes coming from each of TBs after first sliding a 45° inverted flare nut onto each tube. I then tightened the inverted flare nuts into an inverted flare running branch "T" with the inverted flares opposite (180°) from one another and a 1/8" NPT thread in the middle. It works like a charm.

RACE ON!!!

Hi CFI-EFI, on that 1/8'' npt tee, do you have a threaded on gauge? Milton makes a tank valve that is 1/8'' npt & schrader valve. #684, you can thread that into the tee, Ford uses this (the same as a tire valve stem) port on their fuel rails, so any ford adapter will work. Makes it easy to check fuel press. & clean injectors.
I have made some tees also, but not to attach perminately. They want big bucks for all those efi adapters. If you want a GM type schrader valve, look for a early 90s GM 3.1L, on the fuel rail they have a threaded on schrader valve that seals w/ a rubber & steel gasket, this can be adapted to a tee with alittle drilling & tapping.

Well I got my fuel injection cleaner tool last week & used it to clean both my vette & truck's injectors. It works really good, I used the Seafoam w/ a 50/50 gas mixture. Then my neighbor asked what I was doing, so I ended up cleaning his too, I got back a 1/3 of my investment right away. Quite the little operation I got going.:hehehe: :hehehe: I was doing this most of the time:coffeetime: while the injectors were being cleaned.

Just got my first air compressor and air gun! Really makes taking my wheels off a breeze!

Good start on your tool collection, air compressors are very handy to have, blowing off parts, airing up tires, I like those mini-saws that you can get into tight places, angle die-grinders w/ the roloc disks removes old gaskets quick, air cut-off tool is very handy for alot of things, & air ratchets saves alot of time.
Next year I'm inherenting a '73 camaro that needs rear quarters (and alot more) , so I think I get one of those air nibblers, does anybody have one?

THe right tools make all jobs so much easier!

Hi CFI-EFI, on that 1/8'' npt tee, do you have a threaded on gauge?
No. I have a Schrader valve with 1/8" NPT screwed into the "T".



I have made some tees also, but not to attach perminately. They want big bucks for all those efi adapters. If you want a GM type schrader valve, look for a early 90s GM 3.1L, on the fuel rail they have a threaded on schrader valve that seals w/ a rubber & steel gasket, this can be adapted to a tee with alittle drilling & tapping.
That sounds like a lot of work. The "T" I used is a stock, standard, flare fitting, "T". Special "efi adapters"? "GM type schrader valve"? "rubber & steel gasket"? What is all that? I just wanted a Schrader valve that I could connect a common fuel pressure gauge to for testing and adjusting my fuel pressure. I used a common, Camel brand, I believe, tire valve with 1/8" NPT. It was suggested that the tire valve might fail in use with gasoline, so finally, after many years of leak free service, the opportunity presented itself and I replaced the tire valve core with one compatible with gasoline. No big deal.

RACE ON!!!