Hi guys, Some questions about the best way to go.
I'd like to get my 1984 C4 (crossfire) to run cooler. What temp Thermostat should I use? Also I see these add ons for the fan. Should I install one of these aftermarket switches to get the fan on earlier? Also, I see replacment aftermarket fans, dual fans, etc... any info on these? I keep on obsessing with the temp gauge when I'm stopped in traffic.... I know it s'posed to go up... but whats normal on a hot humid NY afternoon?

Thanks for any help you can give

GregC

It can goes as high as 235 before the fan comes on.

On my 85 I have my fan rigged up to run all the time and I have a 160 thermastat. It works for me. The engine will heat up to normal temperature to burn off the moisture in the engine and then cools right down. On the highway it is at about 168-187 depending on how hot of a day it is. My 84 vette has a 180 stat and the fan comes on and off and it seems to run a little hotter but never overheats. When I had the stock thermostat in it it started to overheat going up this mountain pass in a construction zone and boiled over at the top of the mountain, not cool. But I pretty sure someone will chime in and tell you I'm wrong.

The best way to make your C4 run cooler is to put a 3 or 4 tube radiator in it. And to keep your engine running properly, use a 195 degree thermostat.

Has the front of your radiator been cleaned in the last 20 years?
Lottsa crap gets in there and blocks airflow.Has coolant system been flushed out completely.
A well maintained coolant system should not need anything other than stock thermostat .Stock your primary fan should turn on around 225; these engines were desined to run hotter than old school engines.

I'd like to get my 1984 C4 (crossfire) to run cooler. What temp Thermostat should I use?
Cooler than what? The stock fan on an '84 comes in at 238° degrees, by design. GM says to shut the engine off and let it cool if it gets to 260°. Regular, scheduled, maintenance is the key to your engine running proper temps.


I keep on obsessing with the temp gauge when I'm stopped in traffic.... I know it s'posed to go up... but whats normal on a hot humid NY afternoon?

GregC
In what traffic conditions? How hot? Unless your radiator perspires like you and I do, and your cooling system relies on the cooling effect of evaporation, the humidity is of almost no importance. If you know the purpose of the thermostat and how it works, the influence of the opening temp of the stat becomes more clear. Too cool a stat slows warm ups, increases engine wear, fuel usage, and the formation of sludge in the crank case.

Most 3 plus row radiators for C4s are made from copper/brass which in an automotive application is less efficient in conducting heat from the engine than the factory aluminum and quality high performance radiators.

A constantly running fan wastes fan motor life, gasoline, and can even hinder air flow through the radiator at speed.

Not following good common sense and established practices won't necessarily cause your car to disintegrate, on the spot, but what someone says, "works for me." may be causing more harm than he cares to admit or consider. Ignorance definitely can be bliss.

RACE ON!!!

Oh here we go:coffeetime: . Well if it blows my engine up I have an excuse to drop an LSx into it:beerbang: . Stupid TPI.

Comprehension!

RACE ON!!!

Your not one of those underachieving school teachers are you? Wow they get paid crap.:smilielol5:

Your not one of those underachieving school teachers are you? Wow they get paid crap.:smilielol5:
To whom is that post addressed? Maybe, especially in your case, they are paid more than they are worth. Instead of, "Your not one of those...", could you have meant you're, the contraction for, you are? If not, your question makes no sense, but little of what you post does.

For instance, what does the pay scale for teachers have to do with cooling systems? What does anyone's occupation have to do with your ability to read and comprehend (understand)?

RACE ON!!!

To whom is that post addressed? Maybe, especially in your case, they are paid more than they are worth. Instead of, "Your not one of those...", could you have meant you're, the contraction for, you are? If not, your question makes no sense, but little of what you post does.

For instance, what does the pay scale for teachers have to do with cooling systems? What does anyone's occupation have to do with your ability to read and comprehend (understand)?

RACE ON!!!

What does comprehension in bold letters have to do with the OP's topic, just another dig at me stay on topic Mr. tweed ichy suit teacher that can't afford real mods or repairs on his ceasfire.

BACK OFF!!!

Well if it blows my engine up I have an excuse to drop an LSx into it

it won't blow up ; just die a slow painful death from excessive wear.

it won't blow up ; just die a slow painful death from excessive wear.

So your saying one day I will get an LSx with a crossram that puts out 700 hp:beerbang: :burnout:

So your saying one day I will get an LSx with a crossram that puts out 700 hp:beerbang:

Only you would put a cross ram on a LSX. Maybe you could put the Crossfire on it; best of both worlds

What does comprehension in bold letters have to do with the OP's topic, just another dig at me stay on topic Mr. tweed ichy suit teacher that can't afford real mods or repairs on his ceasfire.

BACK OFF!!!
It has to do with the relevance of the post quoted. It has to do with your ability to comprehend the post(s) you reply to. It has to do with many of your posts where your response makes things up and puts words into the mouths of others. If you had a normal level of comprehension you would have never asked WHAT vetteoz was saying. So your saying one day I will get an LSx with a crossram that puts out 700 hp:beerbang: :burnout:
He said what he said. If you could comprehend you would realize he said nothing about what you will ever get, nothing about an LSx, nothing about a crossram, and nothing about anything "that puts out 700 hp". Those are YOUR delusions and nothing he mentioned.

Your unwarranted, illogical characterizations have no place in any discussion of this sort. What is the point of the name calling? "Mr. tweed ichy suit teacher"? If I am a teacher, so what? You certainly need to spend some time with one. Your own inadequacies force you to revert to childish irrelevant name calling.

The comment, "that can't afford real mods or repairs on his ceasfire" is laughable. Those are the ramblings of a frustrated, no nothing, do nothing, wannabe. If you thought there was even a prayer that your '84 on which MR. Bucks up, rich guy (you), has PAID for (because he doesn't know anything) a bunch of modifications, you wouldn't have been a no show at the race challenge YOU issued. It's easy to talk trash when there is no threat of having to back it up. I say, put up or shut up.

RACE ON!!!

Sounds like Charlie Brown's teacher.

waahhhwa waahhhwa waahhwa waahhwa:smilielol5: :smilielol5: :smilielol5: :smilielol5: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :ownedbutton:

Stay on topic this is about cooling a C4.

Stay on topic this is about cooling a C4.

Which is why you said:
Your not one of those underachieving school teachers are you? Wow they get paid crap.:smilielol5:
Mr. tweed ichy suit teacher that can't afford real mods or repairs on his ceasfire.
So your saying one day I will get an LSx with a crossram that puts out 700 hp
Sounds like Charlie Brown's teacher.waahhhwa waahhhwa waahhwa waahhwa

...Right? 'Cause YOU'RE staying so on the topic of "cooling" here. Yeah...that is evident.
What CF-EFI said. I agree.

Which is why you said:





...Right? 'Cause YOU'RE staying so on the topic of "cooling" here. Yeah...that is evident.
What CF-EFI said. I agree.

Another useless post.

I gave my 2 cents on this topic. get a chip and a 160 stat to stay cool, the utah brothers just won't quit.

Well, this might be off the subject C5 overheating over C4 overheating -- overheating non the less. I have a 02 C5 that is having an overheating problem when in traffic. About a year ago, I had a total melt down. The temp rose to over 250 for a short period of time. I flushed the total system. Seemed to help a little I live in a hot local, and now that summer is here with avengance, the temp is rising again. On the highway the car runs at about 200 to 220, never moves more than that. As soon as I get into traffic, the temp will rise fast to 230 to 240. Scares the "S" out of me. The car has a stock thermastate in it. Don't want to drive it around town right now. 100 degrees + these days. Any thoughts?

Well, this might be off the subject C5 overheating over C4 overheating -- overheating non the less. I have a 02 C5 that is having an overheating problem when in traffic. About a year ago, I had a total melt down. The temp rose to over 250 for a short period of time. I flushed the total system. Seemed to help a little I live in a hot local, and now that summer is here with avengance, the temp is rising again. On the highway the car runs at about 200 to 220, never moves more than that. As soon as I get into traffic, the temp will rise fast to 230 to 240. Scares the "S" out of me. The car has a stock thermastate in it. Don't want to drive it around town right now. 100 degrees + these days. Any thoughts?

try a low temp stat. 160-180 should work and if not you are only out $10. worth a try.

84-85; How is a T-stat going to help this gentleman out?As soon as I get into traffic, the temp will rise fast to 230 to 240. Scares the "S" out of me. The car has a stock thermastate in it. Don't want to drive it around town right now. 100 degrees + these days. Any thoughts?

His issue (if he has one) is a fan setting issue. If it was a T-stat issue, temps would also be hot at speed with air flow through the radiator.

ppgc; I'd verify proper fan operation. Does the temp stay lower when the A/C is on?

Additionally, keep in mind that on your car (the C5) the temp gauge is controlled by the PCM...NOT the temp sensor. The PCM gets a signal (voltage) from the temp sensor, and commands the temp gauge to give a reading that is not exactly accurate, but "good enough" to let the operator know if there is a real problem...at which point the gauge will be in or at the red. Think of the gauge more as a "cold-warm-hot" gauge, than one which actually displays accurate degree readings. I would verify actual engine temps, and fan operation, using a known good temp measuring device.

:goodpost:
On a non LSX engine , there have been reported in some engines a 20 degrees difference between the temperature seen by the gauge sensor and the temp seen by the ECM sensor (CTS ) dependent apon where the sensors are positioned.

Plus anyone that thinks that a lower temp stat will open wider then any other stat that is well above the rated opening temp doesn't know diddly. If you understand the purpose of the stat and how it works, you would quickly realize that changing to a lower temp opening stat will NOT make the engine run cooler. Die hard, ignorant, trouble makers, repeatedly posting wrong, incorrect, information ought to be chastised or censured. I, and a good share of us, know better, but this repeated malicious misinformation is going to cost someone, some day.

RACE ON!!!

CFI-EFI how you been bro? What have you been up to? Did you check out the new pictures of the renegade? What do you think or the runners?:thumbsup:

Way to stay on topic, '85. :thumbsup:

Way to stay on topic, '85. :thumbsup:

You are doing some nice stalking, every post I make you are there with one of your witty comments. If you are going to try to be funny at least be funny. Think befor you type, its just not happenin.:loser:

CFI-EFI how you been bro? What have you been up to? Did you check out the new pictures of the renegade? What do you think or the runners?:thumbsup:
Aww. You missed me. Isn't that just peachy?


You are doing some nice stalking, every post I make you are there with one of your witty comments. If you are going to try to be funny at least be funny. Think befor you type, its just not happenin.:loser:
And how does that make you feel???

RACE ON!!!

On my 85 I have my fan rigged up to run all the time and I have a 160 thermastat. .

Some background reading

http://www.familycar.com/Classroom/CoolingSystem.htm#Thermostat_

Some background reading

http://www.familycar.com/Classroom/CoolingSystem.htm#Thermostat_
Too bad he won't be capable of comprehending that link.

RACE ON!!!

No, I don't want to get a virus looking at that site. Thanks anyways dudes. Hey look I'm over a dollar:beerbang:

No, I don't want to get a virus looking at that site.

Another post containing good information for 85/84...that will never be read. The rediculous excuse sounds remarkably like the ones he uses to avoid the drag strip.

85/84; you run a substantially lower risk of getting a virus from the link provided, than from whatever web site you found your avitar from.

First I have a 1987 model with the L98 motor but I had a 1982 Trans Am with the Cross Fire so have some experience with the Cross Fire engine. There is a reason why GM dropped the Cross Fire that I won't get into here. Let's address your cooling problem. Being from Queens before moving to San Francisco I know the heat can get quite warm in the City. Engine heat as well. Greg, it sounds like you are running a stock engine. Keep your cooling system stock as far as the thermostat goes. As I saw mentioned in another reply, cleaning around the radiator area will be a big help. I spent some hours last weekend cleaning my own out. I also have the AC "radiator" in front of the main radiator, which is quite close in proximity. I also have the Oil Cooler. Having the AC Cooler and Radiator both makes cleaning in-between the 2 difficult unless you remove the top holding the radiator in place. This also means I have a Fan for the radiator and a dual fan for the AC. Also remove the Air Filter housing as well. On the underside of the radiator area, accessed from beneath the car behind the bumper and lower air dam is a panel with a few screws to be removed, this will allow easier access. You would be amazed at how much trash and what types of trash you will find clinging to the radiator from daily driving. Keeping the radiator and the radiator area free from trash and paper will be a big help. It is true an aluminum radiator will be the best to have. I would suggest if you must have an after market item, go with a dual fan setup. Now be sure to check all hoses and connections for any leaks or pin holes. Run 50% coolant and 50% water. Be sure to have a shop vac handy for sucking out dirt, gravel and sand debris and any water/coolant that may need to be sucked out as well. Be careful not to get any dirt etc in the air intake tube(s) going into the horn of the throttle body. Lastly, unless you want to keep your Corvette factory original, may I suggest changing to an L98 engine or another LS series engine? L98's are easy to work on and fun to add more "go" power items with good torque and increased horse power. Easier to work on as well. I hope that this helps and good luck.

I would suggest if you must have an after market item, go with a dual fan setup.

Most aftermarket dual fans make more noise, and don't move as much air as stock single fans do. On a stock engine, the stock single fan will be more than sufficient....and certainly no worse than aftermarket fans. Not a good way to spend money.

L98's are easy to work on and fun to add more "go" power items with good torque and increased horse power. Easier to work on as well.
Are you sure that you didn't mean LT1 or LS? How do you figure that an L98 is "easier to work on" than an L83? It's got WAY more parts. (?)

Another post containing good information for 85/84...that will never be read. The rediculous excuse sounds remarkably like the ones he uses to avoid the drag strip.

85/84; you run a substantially lower risk of getting a virus from the link provided, than from whatever web site you found your avitar from.

I got it from my camera card.:ownedbutton:

Most aftermarket dual fans make more noise, and don't move as much air as stock single fans do. On a stock engine, the stock single fan will be more than sufficient....and certainly no worse than aftermarket fans. Not a good way to spend money.
My Corvette came with Dual Fans for the AC and that is what I was refering to not so much as the main radiator fan. I do prefer single fans for the radiator.

Are you sure that you didn't mean LT1 or LS? How do you figure that an L98 is "easier to work on" than an L83? It's got WAY more parts. (?) According to my friend and mechanic of 25 years the Cross Fire was very difficulrt to keep tuned. The L98 is easier in this regard. I have done much work over the past 3 years with my Corvette and engine work and have found it relatively easy compared to some motors I have worked on.

Most aftermarket dual fans make more noise, and don't move as much air as stock single fans do. On a stock engine, the stock single fan will be more than sufficient....and certainly no worse than aftermarket fans. Not a good way to spend money. My Corvette came with Dual Fans for the AC and that is what I was refering to not so much as the main radiator fan. I do prefer single fans for the radiator.


Are you sure that you didn't mean LT1 or LS? How do you figure that an L98 is "easier to work on" than an L83? It's got WAY more parts. (?) I think I just like working on my Vette and making it go fast(er) than before. A gear head from the mid 60's.

[FONT="Arial Black"] According to my friend and mechanic of 25 years the Cross Fire was very difficulrt to keep tuned. The L98 is easier in this regard.

Huh. Well I've had and worked on both (CFI and TPI). I owned my CFI for 10 years and never had ANY issues w/keeping it "tuned". it always ran well, got good gas mileage and even performed well, I thought. The only work I did to it was gradual improvements to increase power. In fact, since it was lacking a MAF meter, that alone made it more trouble free than the TPI car I dealt with. I think it's fairly safe to say that anyone who claims that it's "very difficult to keep tuned" is either completely unfamiliar w/the system, or doesn't know what they're doing. Personally, I thinkg BOTH systems are reliable and easy to work on. But the TPI had more pieces to it and that feature by itself, pretty much makes it more difficult to work on, of the two.

I own both ceasefire and TPI and I have replaced more parts on the TPI than the ceasefire. Only thing needed replaced on the ceasefire was the coolant temp sensor on the front of the intake manifold. It lacks power when stock but is reliable(ceasefire).

No, I don't want to get a virus looking at that site. Thanks anyways dudes.
To paraphrase; "Don't confuse me with the fasts, My mind is made up." You can't, won't, learn anything, until you admit you don't actually know it all.

Hey look I'm over a dollar:beerbang:
WAAAY over priced!

RACE ON!!!

To paraphrase; "Don't confuse me with the fasts, My mind is made up." You can't, won't, learn anything, until you admit you don't actually know it all.


WAAAY over priced!

RACE ON!!!

You are still hanging around? You bought a renegade didn't you? Jumping on the band wagon sweet:thumbsup3:

You are still hanging around? You bought a renegade didn't you? Jumping on the band wagon sweet:thumbsup3:
Me??? Are YOU still hanging around? What would I do with an unknown, over priced piece of merchandise YOU told me to buy, but could never say why.

And in any case, what might that have to do with cooling systems or learning how they work?

RACE ON!!!

1986 Convertible L98, bought used, 44,000 miles, no problems, just getting everything back to where it was intended.
Just got done cleaning the area between the AC condenser and the radiator... could not believe the amount of crap! Leaves, dirt, gravel... lot's of it... and a dead bird... how does it get between the condenser and the radiator? Many of the leaves were whole. So I started thinking... (dangerous I know...) what about a screen? Very open (1/4 inch holes) screen could block some stuff. I know that anything is probably not recommended, but after some more crap gets in there, the effect of the porous screen would be minimal. Or am I just all wrong and bound to mess things up? Anybody?:DeadHorse::1zhelp:

It can goes as high as 235 before the fan comes on.

Almost exactly where mine comes on Paulie.:thumbsup:

:vomitbuddy: I would just go with a 160 stat,flush rad and clean all the crap out in front of your rad.Cheap and should help:thumbsup3:

I would just go with a 160 stat,
Why?
Only means it takes longer to warm up. Fans control what temp engine runs at .
Did you read posts # 23 and # 24?
And this thread is like 7 months old; the original question was answered long ago.

U talkin to me Vetteoz?

U talkin to me

:thumbsup:
Was your quote about the 160 stat

yup that be me ,and that be" my thoughs " on his problem if thats ok with U

that be" my thoughs " on his problem
Please elaborate why you think a 160 stat would have solved his problem ?

Please elaborate why you think a 160 stat would have solved his problem ?

I'm all ears too...This should be good.

I would be at fault to, I have a 160 in mine!!! Just thought that it was better for the motor. I take advise from all sorts of people as I do not pretend to be a know it all with these cars.:cheers: