On their site and looking at this mass airflow? Any pro's con's from people who have installed and used?

NO, I would bet that anyone that answers this post is going to tell you the same! For your $ there are way better mods that you can buy!

NO, I would bet that anyone that answers this post is going to tell you the same! For your $ there are way better mods that you can buy!

:iagree: I have seen here or might have been somewhere else that I'm going to estimate 85% said save your money and apply else where.

:iagree: I have seen here or might have been somewhere else that I'm going to estimate 85% said save your money and apply else where.

Man I'm confused I spoken to a couple shops around here about doing all the work, and they have said this was good unit to have? :confused:

On their site and looking at this mass airflow? Any pro's con's from people who have installed and used?

A mass air flow meter is a sensor that measures air flow. It is calibrated from the factory to output a 0-5 volt signal where 0 = 0 lb/hr of air and 5 volts is equal to X lb/hr of air.

There are only two times you need to upgrade your mass air flow sensor.

1. If the mass air flow housing is too small of a diameter and actually causing a restriction or...
2. If you mass air meter is 'pegging' [hitting 5 volts (max)] before you reach redline which limits the amount of air flow that the computer sees and thus will lean out at higher loads.

A mass air flow meter in and of itself will not gain you horsepower unless the stock housing is a restriction. The problem is once you swap sensors you need to know the proper mass air flow transfer function to input into the tune so the computer is metering the correct amount of air. Otherwise that extra horsepower you might have gained could just be because the tune is not properly calibrated to the sensor causing lean or rich conditions and too much/too little timing.

The only thing that will change the calibration of a maf transfer function is airflow past the sensor. Since air travels slower around the outside of a bend and faster around the inside of a bend if you change your intake piping configuration or change the clocking of the maf housing it will alter the accuracy of the maf transfer function. Thus why with some cold air kits you might need a retune while others you might not.

MAF's also have a few downsides that MAP sensors don't have (improper fueling based upon gear & potential hazards on forced induction blow-through style setups) and that's why a lot of tuners (on LSX type motors) will typically not use the MAF and just use the MAP (speed-density mode).

Here's what a typical MAF transfer function will look like. Sometimes 'tuners' will make very choppy adjustments to the table as a band-aid for improper calibrations at WOT but the curve should be nice and smooth and NOT have any harsh transitions.

http://sctuner.net/techinfo/calibration/CalibrationDefinitions_files/image012.jpg

Man I'm confused I spoken to a couple shops around here about doing all the work, and they have said this was good unit to have? :confused:
To be avoided like the plague.....

To be avoided like the plague.....

So you pro Granatelli mass airflow or not a good choice? :confused:

Leave the stock one in place

Looks like I'll be skipping this one, thanks for all the input. :cheers: