If I launch at 2300-2500 rpm and don't really slip the clutch I blow the tires off. If I launched hard anything over 3200 or so I just spin?
What set up do you guys have that you can launch hard in that RPM level?

If I launch at 2300-2500 rpm and don't really slip the clutch I blow the tires off. If I launched hard anything over 3200 or so I just spin?
What set up do you guys have that you can launch hard in that RPM level?
Well you can try putting on some stickier tires like some Nitto 555r, this will help you plant the power to the ground, just be careful when launching like that with drag tires on, you will have a chance of breaking your cars rearend!!

Greg.

Well you can try putting on some stickier tires like some Nitto 555r, this will help you plant the power to the ground, just be careful when launching like that with drag tires on, you will have a chance of breaking your cars rearend!!

Greg.

Ok so different tires, are those Nittos the only makes? Just looking for variety to choose from. Thanks

Are you looking for a tire specifically for drag racing or are you looking for a street tire? As you start to add more power you will find that there is really no one tire fits all so to speak. Drag tires are not good for the street and street tires are not good at the track.

Are you looking for a tire specifically for drag racing or are you looking for a street tire? As you start to add more power you will find that there is really no one tire fits all so to speak. Drag tires are not good for the street and street tires are not good at the track.

Hmmm so what I really need to do is to get more experience :)

Hmmm so what I really need to do is to get more experience :)
There you go! Now your catching on! Everything has to compliment everything else, you can get all the mods in the world for your Vette and if you are a horrible driver it won't make a difference. I am a golfer as of the past few years and there are a few of my buddies that think that they can "buy" a game without practicing much and it never works that way. I think that most people will agree with me on this analogy!:cheers:

Are you looking for a tire specifically for drag racing or are you looking for a street tire? As you start to add more power you will find that there is really no one tire fits all so to speak. Drag tires are not good for the street and street tires are not good at the track.

Missed your first question, I would be looking for something that is streetable?

Well you can try putting on some stickier tires like some Nitto 555r, this will help you plant the power to the ground, just be careful when launching like that with drag tires on, you will have a chance of breaking your cars rearend!!

Greg.

I've heard of those 555R's, thats a tire you can only get 5000-7000 miles from? Someone was telling me that once, nope stick with the Pilots.

I've heard of those 555R's, thats a tire you can only get 5000-7000 miles from? Someone was telling me that once, nope stick with the Pilots.

Your right on that, Nitto's 555R's are a low mileage tire, primary good for track or canyon runs. Your picking up a tire like this when you want some serious traction.

Sticks are really tough to get good 0-60 times with. Here's some research I've done that should help you.

Launch Techniques

Some Basics

With an old/stock clutch your options are limited. You will have to hold your RPM's below 3K and slip it slightly. If you had an upgraded clutch (not stock or Z06) I would recommend launching at 3500 to 4000RPM with a slight slip. The type of Tire you will use will also drive your launch.

If you are running stock tires, keep your launch below 2500 RPM regardless of clutch type. If you are running a drag radial, make sure you sufficiently heat them with a burnout before staging. Either way make sure your stage shallow.


As soon as both lanes are staged (The staged light in each lane is lit), the first of three large yellow lights will light. On the third yellow light begin your launch. With a shallow stage. your car will have a few inches to begin rolling before the stage lights are triggered indicating you official start.

Once under way, quick shifts improve ET and MPH. Be sure to max out your RPMs without hitting the rev limiter. I shift at red-line minus 300 rpm. On your 1st to 2nd shift, power shifting (leaving your foot on the gas to the flow as you depress the clutch and make your shift) is not recommended do to traction. The 2nd to 3rd shift can realize significant gains with a power shift however, this is the trickiest to maneuver (directional angle of the path between 2 and 3). The 3rd to 4th shift is the easiest to power shift.

Here's a link that provides some useful info:

NHRA Drag Racing Basics (http://www.nhra.com/basics/basics.html)

Launching a Z06 on Stock Tires

Competition mode. AC and audio system off. Windows up. Tire pressure 44-48 psi (front); 24-28 psi (rear).

Try 2800 rpm. Increase or decrease the rpm 200-300 each run until you find the sweet spot for your conditions.

Engage the clutch over the first 2 to 10 feet of movement depending on conditions. Go WOT ONLY once the tires are hooked, and do so by squeezing the pedal progressively to the floor.

If you do some practice on old blacktop and ambient outside temp is around 75, you ought to be able to launch leaving only about 10 feet of rubber.

Another key is on the 1st-2d shift. Ease the throttle just enough to avoid a lot of wheel spin, which will hurt your time. When I began drag racing the Z06, I shifted to 2d at an indicated 6200, 3d at 6300-6400 and 4th at 6400. Objective is to shift as high as you can without hitting the rev-limiter.

What you are after is developing the launch "touch" combining input from all yours senses. I can feel the tires spin in the steering wheel, clutch pedal, and seat of the pant. Sight and sound help too. But the F1SC tires don't make much of a squeal when they spin.

I use Competition mode rather than "AH/TC off" because I want AH to intervene should the rear get substantially out of line. Just some insurance to limits "the worst that can happen."

Two last things you probably already know. Be sure your oil is above 155 degrees (preferably above 170) before you do launch practice. Also choose your spot wisely.

Launch on BFG Drag Radials

I hold the launch rpm (usually starting with 3600-3900 on an average prepped track) and then quickly but smoothly releasing the clutch with a full engage occurring over the first 4-10' of movement. I try not to feed it more throttle until I think the tires are hooked. There is a delicate balance to find. But it entails squeezing the throttle progressively to the floor between 10-25 foot off the lights. Drag radials will take throttle more quickly than stock tires, but it's still a "squeezing" action rather that a "stomp." Another big advantage of DRs is that they do a great job holding the shifts to 2d, 3d, and 4th without spinning (much). Most of my sub-12 runs have comes when the shift to 2d little wheel-spin and the car feels as though it jumps forward on that shift. Ditto the shift to 3d.


Burn-out of Stock Tires

After you have accumulated 30+ passes and have started to produce consistent 60' and ETs, you will want to find a way to improve. Here is one way....

If you are running the stock Z06 tires (GY F1SCs), a full burnout will lower your 60' times, all other things being equal.

Avoid driving THROUGH the water. Instead drive around the water and back up until the rear tires are just into the damp area. I then do a full burnout just like on DRs. I don't have a line lock and here is my procedure (no claim it's the best way):

Back into the damp area forward of the waterbox.

Make sure you're in COMPETITIVE DRIVING mode. Put the tranny in 2d.

Drop the clutch and feed the throttle and (if necessary), quickly lightly apply the brakes with your left foot. I don't usually need the brakes but some folks find it helpful for keeping the rear end from walking to far sideways.

Bring the rpm to about 6000 until the tires smoke strongly. At that point, back out of the throttle and (if applied) release the brake, and you'll roar forward. The tires are heated. I don't count seconds but just spin them strongly until they smoke hard.

Takes a little practice. But remember, if you botch the burn-out, DON'T retry it with dry tires. Doing that will likely glaze the clutch...or worse.

Using this procedure, I'm usually getting high 1.7s or low 1.8s on stock tires. That is about a tenth improvement compared to what I was getting with a simple clean-up spin before staging. The burnout also helps to better hook the shifts to 2d and 3d.

A 1.78 60' on Stock Tires

Posted in Nov 2003

First, I only have 16 runs on the 02 Z wearing stock tires. 11 last year and 5 this. After the burn-out (to the point of very good smoke), I brought the launch rpm down to 3100 and got the clutch out fast. Not a pop or a dump or a side-step. Just a quick release in the first few feet. Then, and only then did I begin to squeeze the accelerator to the floor over the next 20 feet of so. Minimizing wheel spin. Perhaps this won't work for everyone. But the principle is the same. Find the right launch rpm and get the clutch out fast and then squeeze the throttle to the floor, but avoiding significant wheel spin.

I should add that heating the stock tires also helps to hook better the shifts to 2d and 3d. As for my "slowing down" the shifts on the 11.81 run...I was just less aggressive in banging the shifter and gave slightly more lift to the throttle during the shifts. I shift very fast but am doing some lift during the shift to 2d and 3d. I sometimes powershift to 4th, but only did that on the 11.81 run on Saturday.

As for shift points, I don't watch the tac in 1st or 2d, because things are happening so fast, but go by sound and feel instead. I try to shift at the highest rpm possible without kissing the rev-limiter. I estimate that on good runs I am completing the shift to 2d and 3d at 6500. I have pretty good leg-speed and that helps quite a bit. I do watch the tac as the engine winds through third gear and I make the shift to 4th at an indicated 6500. My 125 runs in 2002 taught me that "just kissing" the limiter wastes less than a tenth, but banging into the limiter "hard" basically kills the run. And that only happens when it surprises you, which means you lost focus and had already left "the zone."

Once I heated the stock tires, I launched as though they were drag radials, same clutch release (fast) but at almost exactly 1000 RPMs lower. My launch was at 3100 RPMs. Had I been on DRs, I'd have been launching at 4000-4100 in those conditions.

On Powershifting

I don't recommend powershifting until you accumulate a lot of passes. Up to that point, there are plenty of things to work on to reduce your ET without incurring the risks to your tranny that powershifting entails. Once you've wrung all the time-wastage out of your passes, then powershifting may me necessary to reduce your times further. But I'm not yet at that point except in unusual conditions.....

Sticks are really tough to get good 0-60 times with. Here's some research I've done that should help you.

Launch Techniques

Some Basics

With an old/stock clutch your options are limited. You will have to hold your RPM's below 3K and slip it slightly. If you had an upgraded clutch (not stock or Z06) I would recommend launching at 3500 to 4000RPM with a slight slip. The type of Tire you will use will also drive your launch.

If you are running stock tires, keep your launch below 2500 RPM regardless of clutch type. If you are running a drag radial, make sure you sufficiently heat them with a burnout before staging. Either way make sure your stage shallow.


As soon as both lanes are staged (The staged light in each lane is lit), the first of three large yellow lights will light. On the third yellow light begin your launch. With a shallow stage. your car will have a few inches to begin rolling before the stage lights are triggered indicating you official start.

Once under way, quick shifts improve ET and MPH. Be sure to max out your RPMs without hitting the rev limiter. I shift at red-line minus 300 rpm. On your 1st to 2nd shift, power shifting (leaving your foot on the gas to the flow as you depress the clutch and make your shift) is not recommended do to traction. The 2nd to 3rd shift can realize significant gains with a power shift however, this is the trickiest to maneuver (directional angle of the path between 2 and 3). The 3rd to 4th shift is the easiest to power shift.

Here's a link that provides some useful info:

NHRA Drag Racing Basics (http://www.nhra.com/basics/basics.html)

Launching a Z06 on Stock Tires

Competition mode. AC and audio system off. Windows up. Tire pressure 44-48 psi (front); 24-28 psi (rear).

Try 2800 rpm. Increase or decrease the rpm 200-300 each run until you find the sweet spot for your conditions.

Engage the clutch over the first 2 to 10 feet of movement depending on conditions. Go WOT ONLY once the tires are hooked, and do so by squeezing the pedal progressively to the floor.

If you do some practice on old blacktop and ambient outside temp is around 75, you ought to be able to launch leaving only about 10 feet of rubber.

Another key is on the 1st-2d shift. Ease the throttle just enough to avoid a lot of wheel spin, which will hurt your time. When I began drag racing the Z06, I shifted to 2d at an indicated 6200, 3d at 6300-6400 and 4th at 6400. Objective is to shift as high as you can without hitting the rev-limiter.

What you are after is developing the launch "touch" combining input from all yours senses. I can feel the tires spin in the steering wheel, clutch pedal, and seat of the pant. Sight and sound help too. But the F1SC tires don't make much of a squeal when they spin.

I use Competition mode rather than "AH/TC off" because I want AH to intervene should the rear get substantially out of line. Just some insurance to limits "the worst that can happen."

Two last things you probably already know. Be sure your oil is above 155 degrees (preferably above 170) before you do launch practice. Also choose your spot wisely.

Launch on BFG Drag Radials

I hold the launch rpm (usually starting with 3600-3900 on an average prepped track) and then quickly but smoothly releasing the clutch with a full engage occurring over the first 4-10' of movement. I try not to feed it more throttle until I think the tires are hooked. There is a delicate balance to find. But it entails squeezing the throttle progressively to the floor between 10-25 foot off the lights. Drag radials will take throttle more quickly than stock tires, but it's still a "squeezing" action rather that a "stomp." Another big advantage of DRs is that they do a great job holding the shifts to 2d, 3d, and 4th without spinning (much). Most of my sub-12 runs have comes when the shift to 2d little wheel-spin and the car feels as though it jumps forward on that shift. Ditto the shift to 3d.


Burn-out of Stock Tires

After you have accumulated 30+ passes and have started to produce consistent 60' and ETs, you will want to find a way to improve. Here is one way....

If you are running the stock Z06 tires (GY F1SCs), a full burnout will lower your 60' times, all other things being equal.

Avoid driving THROUGH the water. Instead drive around the water and back up until the rear tires are just into the damp area. I then do a full burnout just like on DRs. I don't have a line lock and here is my procedure (no claim it's the best way):

Back into the damp area forward of the waterbox.

Make sure you're in COMPETITIVE DRIVING mode. Put the tranny in 2d.

Drop the clutch and feed the throttle and (if necessary), quickly lightly apply the brakes with your left foot. I don't usually need the brakes but some folks find it helpful for keeping the rear end from walking to far sideways.

Bring the rpm to about 6000 until the tires smoke strongly. At that point, back out of the throttle and (if applied) release the brake, and you'll roar forward. The tires are heated. I don't count seconds but just spin them strongly until they smoke hard.

Takes a little practice. But remember, if you botch the burn-out, DON'T retry it with dry tires. Doing that will likely glaze the clutch...or worse.

Using this procedure, I'm usually getting high 1.7s or low 1.8s on stock tires. That is about a tenth improvement compared to what I was getting with a simple clean-up spin before staging. The burnout also helps to better hook the shifts to 2d and 3d.

A 1.78 60' on Stock Tires

Posted in Nov 2003

First, I only have 16 runs on the 02 Z wearing stock tires. 11 last year and 5 this. After the burn-out (to the point of very good smoke), I brought the launch rpm down to 3100 and got the clutch out fast. Not a pop or a dump or a side-step. Just a quick release in the first few feet. Then, and only then did I begin to squeeze the accelerator to the floor over the next 20 feet of so. Minimizing wheel spin. Perhaps this won't work for everyone. But the principle is the same. Find the right launch rpm and get the clutch out fast and then squeeze the throttle to the floor, but avoiding significant wheel spin.

I should add that heating the stock tires also helps to hook better the shifts to 2d and 3d. As for my "slowing down" the shifts on the 11.81 run...I was just less aggressive in banging the shifter and gave slightly more lift to the throttle during the shifts. I shift very fast but am doing some lift during the shift to 2d and 3d. I sometimes powershift to 4th, but only did that on the 11.81 run on Saturday.

As for shift points, I don't watch the tac in 1st or 2d, because things are happening so fast, but go by sound and feel instead. I try to shift at the highest rpm possible without kissing the rev-limiter. I estimate that on good runs I am completing the shift to 2d and 3d at 6500. I have pretty good leg-speed and that helps quite a bit. I do watch the tac as the engine winds through third gear and I make the shift to 4th at an indicated 6500. My 125 runs in 2002 taught me that "just kissing" the limiter wastes less than a tenth, but banging into the limiter "hard" basically kills the run. And that only happens when it surprises you, which means you lost focus and had already left "the zone."

Once I heated the stock tires, I launched as though they were drag radials, same clutch release (fast) but at almost exactly 1000 RPMs lower. My launch was at 3100 RPMs. Had I been on DRs, I'd have been launching at 4000-4100 in those conditions.

On Powershifting

I don't recommend powershifting until you accumulate a lot of passes. Up to that point, there are plenty of things to work on to reduce your ET without incurring the risks to your tranny that powershifting entails. Once you've wrung all the time-wastage out of your passes, then powershifting may me necessary to reduce your times further. But I'm not yet at that point except in unusual conditions.....


Great post, how often are you getting to the track?