1975 Stingray. I have all new Stainless brakes and I have got all the air out of lines. I did this about five times and the brake fluid is running clear. The problem is that the break light on the dash keeps comming on. The break peddle is only about one inch from the floor. Need some hepl.
THANKS Dennis

You still have air or you need a new master cylinder. When bleeding the brakes, always start at the furthest caliper and work back to the closest caliper to the master cylinder.
Good luck,

If you havent bench bled your master cylinder you might want to start there. You can get a kit at napa, but if there is air trapped in the MC you wont get it out through the calipers.

:15: :cheers: I hope you replaced the calipers with the o-ring type. If your rotors are slightly warped or have too much run out and you have the lip seal type instead of o-ring pucks your calipers will pull in air at the calipers as you drive and that will cause the light to come on. I experienced the same problem many years ago when I installed the stainless calipers with the original type seals and I spent many hours bleeding and replacing master cylinders and hoses only to find out that all I needed was the o-ring pucks in the stainless calipers. It is general knowledge now but it was a nightmare 15years ago. Best of luck:cheers:

yah u can "bench bleed" the master cylinder on the car actually...

it just involves putting some little hoses and some plastic ports and putting the hoses back into the fluid....

then have someone hold it there and pump your way to no air.

then u do a quick changeover and hook up your brake lines and follow it down through bleeding the calipers.

there are a device called speed bleeders.

they work nicely

Don't forget that there are 2 different bleed valves on each rear caliper. Many people don't even notice these. Each caliper has a bleed valve on the back side. You still have air in the line if you did not bleed those.

Good luck!

I had a similair problem on my 68. It had set for a long time after installing new caliphers. The aluminum pistons in the caliphers had coroded and the bleed air was leaking under the seals. I had to polish the seal grooves to get a good seal.

To get your brake warning light to turn off, STOMP on the brake pedal. The sudden shock apparently centers a spool in the proportioning valve or something, because after you stomp the pedal, the light WILL turn off. Then go ahead and bleed the brakes as you normally would.

As the master cylinder sits in a nose up attitude, air gets trapped in the front end and it's very hard to get it out. Park your car on a steep incline that is steep enough to put the master cylinder in a nose DOWN attitude, then gently pump the brake pedal until no more air bubbles emerge from the master cylinder's lower bores.

Don't forget that there are 2 different bleed valves on each rear caliper. Many people don't even notice these. Each caliper has a bleed valve on the back side. You still have air in the line if you did not bleed those.

Good luck!

You have to pull the rear wheels to get to these.