2002 C5 Corvette needs more power [Archive] - SmokinVette.com Forums

: 2002 C5 Corvette needs more power


rainman
10-12-2007, 07:04 AM
Hi everyone. I have finally stepped into the dark side! My vette is a 2002 C5 with 17,000 miles on it bone stock. So I am new to this world of "mods" and this web site. I would like to add some power and would like to get this up to 450HP?? :confused: I believe this car is 300HP, so what do I need to do? Teach me, I'm listening. ;)

Lethal Tendencies
10-12-2007, 05:26 PM
A maguson supercharger is a good start

02RonZ06
10-12-2007, 07:17 PM
I believe that vette is the LS1 powered and it is suppose to be 345 rated HP. IT really depends on how much money you want to spend, and what direction you want to take to make that extra HP, let us have some more informaion.

tom snitzer
10-13-2007, 05:08 AM
There have been many posts in the forum about adding HP. You can do a bunch of small adds for $1,000-$2,000 and get 50 hp, which you won't really feel. If you want signficiant addl hp, you have three choices(all around $9,000 installed):

1. centrif supercharger(procharger, vortec, Novi)
2. roots supercharger(Magnacharger), also twin screw(Kenne Bell)
3. twin turbo(APS, STS)

See my other SC posts for details. The quick answer is, for max low end pull and highest top end hp, go with APS twin turbo. Maggie will get your close but is 50-100 hp less than APS that can get you to 550-600 rwhp.

If you can't afford the $9,000, don't bother.

tom snitzer
10-13-2007, 05:12 AM
Below is a copy of an earlier post I made on FI:

A few additional facts about FI and your 2 basic choices turbo or SC. Turbo gets you lots of low end boost fast, is quiet and there are no belts to change. They are a little more expensive to install correctly ($1,000 addl). The big negative is if your into road racing. There's a lag when you drop the peddle until the impeller spools up, then a rather abrupt boost in power. On the street or in a drag application that's fun. Road racing the sudden boost can put an inexperienced(or even an intermediate driver) off the track when exiting a turn (aka. if your serious about HPDEs don't buy one).

As for the SC choices those fall into two categories(I: stock hood, II: high rise hood reqrd):
I. Centrifugal SCs: Procharger, Vortech, ESC kit, which don't require a high rise front hood. The only disadvantage to these is they don't build signif power until the rpms are over 3,700. If you forge the bottom end of the car, you can get these to turn out impressive hp #s(my car for ex. is 740rwhp). Price installed 500hp $9,000, price for 740hp(including forged bot, fuel pump, meth inj) $16,000.
IIa. roots style: Maggie: Builds powers right away at 2,000+rpm. Downsides: limit to about 500 rwhp and needs high rise hood. Cost about $9,000
IIb. twin screw: Kenne Bell: Builds power right away and can be modified to support 800rwhp. More efficient, less parasitic loss. Downsides: high rise hood, addl weights (+100 lbs). PS. Ford GT uses twin screw.

End note: For the street the twin turbo is my favorite choice. STS and APS both great, I favor the latter slightly. Make sure you check out your installer carefully. Good luck.

tstar
10-14-2007, 02:17 AM
FYI You might be very pleasently surprised with just a gear change in your rear end.

Lethal Tendencies
10-14-2007, 07:23 AM
FYI You might be very pleasently surprised with just a gear change in your rear end.

I totally agree with that

rainman
10-16-2007, 07:47 AM
Below is a copy of an earlier post I made on FI:

A few additional facts about FI and your 2 basic choices turbo or SC. Turbo gets you lots of low end boost fast, is quiet and there are no belts to change. They are a little more expensive to install correctly ($1,000 addl). The big negative is if your into road racing. There's a lag when you drop the peddle until the impeller spools up, then a rather abrupt boost in power. On the street or in a drag application that's fun. Road racing the sudden boost can put an inexperienced(or even an intermediate driver) off the track when exiting a turn (aka. if your serious about HPDEs don't buy one).

As for the SC choices those fall into two categories(I: stock hood, II: high rise hood reqrd):
I. Centrifugal SCs: Procharger, Vortech, ESC kit, which don't require a high rise front hood. The only disadvantage to these is they don't build signif power until the rpms are over 3,700. If you forge the bottom end of the car, you can get these to turn out impressive hp #s(my car for ex. is 740rwhp). Price installed 500hp $9,000, price for 740hp(including forged bot, fuel pump, meth inj) $16,000.
IIa. roots style: Maggie: Builds powers right away at 2,000+rpm. Downsides: limit to about 500 rwhp and needs high rise hood. Cost about $9,000
IIb. twin screw: Kenne Bell: Builds power right away and can be modified to support 800rwhp. More efficient, less parasitic loss. Downsides: high rise hood, addl weights (+100 lbs). PS. Ford GT uses twin screw.

End note: For the street the twin turbo is my favorite choice. STS and APS both great, I favor the latter slightly. Make sure you check out your installer carefully. Good luck.

Thanks for replying to my question. I don't want much more than 450-500 Now with a supercharger or twin turbo can you control the power out put? For example as mentioned I want to stay under 500 HP can you adjust these to stay under? I don't know, so I must ask. Also you said STS and APS are great, I think I have heard of APS, but really don't know much on turbos to begin with. Why do you lean towards the APS what is the difference? Reason I ask is I just got an email from a guy over at STS talking about their turbos. Actually I just found both companies and this STS turbo deal is mounted in the rear of the car and the APS (Over seas company? Is this the right one?) looks to be mounted under the hood?

Now I'm really curious, whats the difference between these? Apples to apples is a turbo over a supercharger will give more torque? thanks I really appreciate your help!

tom snitzer
10-16-2007, 04:55 PM
First off, there’s no right or wrong answer as to what system to go with. 5 people will give you 5 different preferences. That said, here goes.

1. If you want 450rwhp hp(which equals approx 525 engine hp) you have many choices. Since you are looking for low end torque, I would opt OUT of any centrif SCs. They are great but don’t build boost or torque till you are turning 3,600 rpm. So skip Procharger, Vortech and Novi.
2. That leaves Roots SCs like a Magnacharger and Twin screws like the Kenne Belle. Those will produce lots of low end torque and easily get you the 450 rwhp. The Kenne Belle has the ability to go higher into the low 700s. The rub with these systems is they attached to the top of your engine and require a high rise hood be installed on your car (hood cost plus painting).
3. The twin turbo option will provide low end torque, without the need for a high rise hood, plus they don’t require any belts to drive the impellers & build boost (no belt to wear out or break). They require a little more experience to install, but any good tuner can handle.

For your purposes, I think this is the option I would recommend. Of the TT systems, the APS has the turbos mounted in front and STS in the rear. Both are good systems however, I hear more raves about APS. The APS should spool faster since the exhaust has a shorter distance to travel(being front mounted), plus the turbos are more protected and less likely to get dinged by road debris. When you install the TT, have the tuner get you up to 530-550 rwhp. Your stock engine can handle that without forging and you will be glad you have the extra power. Trust me, 450 sounds like a lot now, but in 4 months you will want more.

As for myself, I have a centrif blower running 16 lbs of boost and turning out 740 hp. You don’t need that. Keep it simple and you will be a happy camper. PS. I have no axe to grind recommending SC vs. TT.

Additionally, don’t change the gearing in your rear end, with the new higher hp, you will want the stock rear diff. Plus, make darn sure you get a good tuner to work on your car. It’s worth driving 100 miles to get the right guy. Having an experienced tuner is huge.

One final word of caution, IF YOU ARE THINKING ABOUT ROAD RACING YOUR CAR, STAY AWAY FROM SCs and TTs! They are great for the street but overheat on a road course. For ¼ mile they are just fine. I can elaborate more on this if you need further info. Good luck!

smokinvette
10-16-2007, 05:16 PM
Very strong reply Tom! Always enjoy reading your post. Here is what we are running at SmokinVette:

The Silver 05 is running the Maggie supercharger and when the final tuning is completed should be around 525 RWHP, I have to say the Maggie is a great set up, as Tom pointed out amazing lower end torque and respectable RWHP, however it has its limitations.

Perhaps in the future we may move to a Twin Turbo set up for a change, who knows. Both APS and STS systems are great units, as Tom mentioned the APS set up has dumped a ton of $$ into marketing, there for you see them all over the place. Not to discount STS, personally I like the sound of the STS set up... they have a car Fianza or something like that, that is sponsored by them. I think its a 2005? Any way it sounds like a jet, as the turbos are spooling up in the rear. Cool stuff.

I have spoken to both companies and very familiar with both set ups. If you decide to go with one of these companies you can't go wrong.

Moving forward our other 2005 Vette has a custom 402 that Late Model Engines built for us, this will be a NA build, with a pretty nasty cam in it, AFR heads, Fast 90, ported throttle body and should be pushing around 575RWHP after the car is re-broken in.

So you have a few options you can go, and as Tom stated and I agree, find yourself a good tuner, drive a distance if you have to!

Good luck and keep us tuned as to what direction you go!

WES
10-17-2007, 07:15 AM
I would personally go for the TT set up, I like the sounds myself with them. There is a slick video on you tube of Liginfelter supercharged Vette that sounds great.

topdown
10-21-2007, 08:11 AM
First off, there’s no right or wrong answer as to what system to go with. 5 people will give you 5 different preferences. That said, here goes.

1. If you want 450rwhp hp(which equals approx 525 engine hp) you have many choices. Since you are looking for low end torque, I would opt OUT of any centrif SCs. They are great but don’t build boost or torque till you are turning 3,600 rpm. So skip Procharger, Vortech and Novi.
2. That leaves Roots SCs like a Magnacharger and Twin screws like the Kenne Belle. Those will produce lots of low end torque and easily get you the 450 rwhp. The Kenne Belle has the ability to go higher into the low 700s. The rub with these systems is they attached to the top of your engine and require a high rise hood be installed on your car (hood cost plus painting).
3. The twin turbo option will provide low end torque, without the need for a high rise hood, plus they don’t require any belts to drive the impellers & build boost (no belt to wear out or break). They require a little more experience to install, but any good tuner can handle.

For your purposes, I think this is the option I would recommend. Of the TT systems, the APS has the turbos mounted in front and STS in the rear. Both are good systems however, I hear more raves about APS. The APS should spool faster since the exhaust has a shorter distance to travel(being front mounted), plus the turbos are more protected and less likely to get dinged by road debris. When you install the TT, have the tuner get you up to 530-550 rwhp. Your stock engine can handle that without forging and you will be glad you have the extra power. Trust me, 450 sounds like a lot now, but in 4 months you will want more.

As for myself, I have a centrif blower running 16 lbs of boost and turning out 740 hp. You don’t need that. Keep it simple and you will be a happy camper. PS. I have no axe to grind recommending SC vs. TT.

Additionally, don’t change the gearing in your rear end, with the new higher hp, you will want the stock rear diff. Plus, make darn sure you get a good tuner to work on your car. It’s worth driving 100 miles to get the right guy. Having an experienced tuner is huge.

One final word of caution, IF YOU ARE THINKING ABOUT ROAD RACING YOUR CAR, STAY AWAY FROM SCs and TTs! They are great for the street but overheat on a road course. For ¼ mile they are just fine. I can elaborate more on this if you need further info. Good luck!

Solid post on how to add power. ha ha ha seriously I just saved this thread on my computer!

BlackSheep
10-24-2007, 06:14 AM
A buddy and I are taking apart my 2001 C5 this winter and going to build up a sweet monster for spring time. Replacing stock fuel system, suspension, ignition, and off course going to do something with the motor. Haven't decided 100% if going to rebuild the motor and slap some force induction on it or just put a monster engine in the car. I'm new here so I will for sure be hitting you guys up for advice to see what exactly we getting our selfs into! (1st time doing this)

Todd :D